The metering has to be byp***ed when low pressure bleeding, and usually requires the pin to be pushed, but some designs are pulled. My advice is just remove the metering, as it is not necessary, and can be troublesome in a custom non-stock brake system, imo.
I'd do a standard pedal bleed, using a helper. Pump brake pedal 5 times and hold pedal down. Second person opens bleeder furthest from master cylinder until no more bubbles. Then repeat on other wheel. I use clear plastic hose from the hardware store over bleeder down to a disposable cup. This eliminates much of the mess and makes it easy to see the air released from the bleed valve. I pour used fluid from disposable cup to a container with a screw top for later disposal.
Thank you for this! A few things I don't know: bore size, pedal ratio, wheel cylinder size. But will look to collect. One thing I did find, is that the MC is partially covered by the floor. I did a minor bit of cutting to expose and the rear bowl (to the front brakes) has muck in the bottom and has me doubting the shops were able to bleed properly. I do have an EB, so will try that test.
The Jalopy Journal
