Hi Fellas Im planning to paint a new gas tank for my Harley. It will arrive raw. I dont have a compressor etc so wanting to do this with spray cans including primer, filler, paint and clear. Will most probably be gloss black at this stage. Whats the current go to brand to do this? Thanks. Pete.
Try Dura Coat, designed for firearms but can be used on anything. Two part paint they have a clear gloss also. This stuff is tough. Lots of colors etc. https://duracoatfirearmfinishes.com/coatings/duracoat/standard-colors/?page=2 Dan
Hello, My last spray was on a custom scooter for our granddaughter. I had to sand the old tube handles and used a fine grit wet dry paper first. Then a flat primer. Finally, I used the Rustoleum high performance enamel for the final coats. (Two) Now, a drop or ding on the paint would last a few rounds of rough “kid” play. Plus, it looked good, shiny, and solid… no runs… several light coats was best for the application. I also used this to coat several flat metal plates I used at home for another project. No, it looks chrome on the cap, but it is just a little brighter silver than the normal silver paint from the same company. So, don’t be fooled by the cap. In the racks, it looks as if you can buy a chrome paint that looks like chrome. YRMV Jnaki I have never had the use of clear polyurethane for a final metal paint coat. But, I have used the clear poly urethanc on wood for a good seal from the weather and as long as nothing hits it or makes a deep scratch, the clear coat is solid and protects like no other. But, on wood, one ding and it could start the weeping of weather/water into the surface. The matte finish looks better on wood, but for metal, one might want shiny or the gloss version.
I've found S E M to be a step above hardware store varieties. OTOH, we did a BSA chopper (w/Sportster tank) that got a two page spread in "The Horse" bike magazine some years ago with Krylon (1316 IIRC). YMMV.
Considering your location, I don't know if the formulas are the same. That said, Krylon really has been one of the rare companies that hasn't visibly made the product worse, hasn't stepped into the news in a bad way, and seems to be readily available in case of touch ups. They also offer various types of paint; enamel, lacquer, clears, etc. for you to choose from. The same might be said for Rustoleum.
Upol products are good for under coat products. They were recommended to me by a friend that works at a BMW dealership. They use them for small repairs. Here in the States we can get most automotive paints put into spray cans. (Look on one of the auction sites). I have done as much as a fender or a door that way. You can get base coat or single stage. The spray cans of paint are about $40 . 2 cans of paint will do most fenders easily. There is also no time wasted cleaning the spray gun.
There are some companies that sell catalyzed paint in aerosol with a ****on on the bottom that releases the activator. That would be my recommendation. You have better durability with high end paint materials.
Gasoline is not one’s friend on a motorcycle tank . I prefer a urethane base paint , dried under a lamp . Nothing worse than filling up at the last stop for 150 miles and 2 miles from the station , paint is running off or discolored .
Yep, gotta be fuel proof. The tank on a BSA I had was painted at a professional paint shop. This happened when it got its first tank of gas, and I didn’t realize that it was leaking around the pet****…
@swade41 Nice Shovel! Couple questions if thats OK Was that the engine paint or their normal fare? Did you use a clear? Did you use Rustoleum for the flames? Thanks.
Normal paint, no clear and yes flames are Rustoleum too. I did wash it with car soap that had some kind of wax in it, so it put a little more sheen on it.
Max 2K Glamour Clear if you want shiney. They do have Max 2 K in Black so no base coat needed. EZ to color sand cut and buff. If it’s shiney you want out of a can …it can’t be beat!
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