Technical POLL: Starter heat shield OR Ford solenoid on Chevy engine to cure hot start problems

Same situation as Jim but with a 351C in my old F100 ..... original solenoid wiring had a major voltage drop when it got HOT.
Used the original Ford starter solenoid wire to trigger the relay and then used much heavier wiring from the battery cable terminal on the starter to the new relay and from there back to the starter solenoid terminal.
Never had a problem when it was HOT from that time on.

 

1960 Lion’s Dragstrip Pits

Hello,

We were running in the C/Gas cl*** in early 1960. The times kept getting lower and lower. The speed was also improving. The starter on our 292 c.i. 671 supercharged SBC motor was giving us instant start up problems all day. One time it instantly started like it always had. It came to life as soon as the motor started cranking. As the day wore on, we were afraid to shut it off when in line of the cl*** lanes.

Afraid that if we shut it down, then it would not start when called to move to the staging area. Luckily, we were able to make runs and when there was a break for lunch, the hood got raised and a full inspection was necessary. My brother’s idea was to check the starter and solenoid.

Weeks prior, it started to do the random no start thing. So, we thought it was the starter, so my brother came home with a new Chevy starter from the local Chevy dealer. It ran fine for a couple of weeks and then it started again… pun not intended… this time it was the lunch break and we were in the middle of eliminations. So, we raised the hood, and decided to take out the starter and see what was what.

After the starter was taken out, since it was a fairly new starter, we decided it was the solenoid that was sticking and not allowing the fast start sequence as it normally does. So, I drove to the Chevy dealer and got a new solenoid. It fit perfectly and the parts guy said the solenoid is probably the cause of most starter problems and not allowing the starter to move.

Jnaki

Finally, we got both together and installed the set up. Now, it started instantly as before and it was reliable enough to shut it off during our line up in the cl*** lanes. But, just to be on the safe side, we pushed the Willys Coupe to the staging area and then it started instantly. We were both relieved and happy. Now, where was that low E.T. close to the national record for C/Gas??? Will a 12.60 be a good start towards a 12.40 e.t. record time for the cl***? YRMV

 

I used the hot start relay #HR-67 from Ron Francis Wiring and the installation could not have be easier.

 

I'm going to install a relay in the purple wire going to the solenoid. While looking through my stash of automotive electrical "stuff" I found a Doorman 84601 four pin relay. It says on the actual relay "12V 30A." This is in an unopened package; please don't ask me why I have it or where I got it. Jim (@squirrel) mentioned a Bosch relay but didn't specify exactly which relay.

Can any of you gurus tell me if this thing is capable of sending enough power to the solenoid?

If not can you recommend a unit that is capable?

Also someone please tell me how to hook up a relay. Whether this one or a different one. The four pins are labeled 85, 87, 30, and 86. I'm ***uming these four pins get connected (in some order) to the purple wire that now is going to the solenoid, a ground, a "big" wire coming from the battery, and another "big" wire going to the solenoid where the purple wire used to go. Is this correct and which wire goes to which pin?

I've never installed a relay before but it seems to me that I've seen these pin numbers show up in relay conversations on here.

Thanks in advance.

Note: I ordered a heat shield to use also but when it arrived it isn't the correct one, even though it was advertised as fitting SBC starters. I might still find a correct heat shield and install it. As someone said, "overkill is better than not starting" or something like that.

 

that relay should work, it's a copy of the Bosch relay I mentioned.

can you read my drawing?

 

Jim,

I think so. The wire directly from the battery to the starter is the huge wire going to the large post on the solenoid and the purple wire from pin 30 goes back to where the purple wire used to connect on the solenoid. Is this correct?

What size should the new wires be that connect to 87 and 30?

 

Another question: Battery is outside the rear frame rail near the rear p***enger wheel/tire; i.e., a long ways away. Do I need to run this new wire from 30 to the battery or can I connect it to the large post on the solenoid?

 

Connect it to the solenoid.

14 or 12 AWG wire should work fine.

87 could connect to the large terminal on the solenoid, where the battery connects.

The whole point of this is to avoid the voltage drop in the long circuit of the purple wire, which goes from the battery (or it's connection at the starter solenoid), to the fuse panel, then the ignition switch, maybe a neutral safety switch, and back to the starter solenoid S terminal. There is a lot of opportunity for the voltage in this long wire to drop to below 7 volts when you're cranking the engine, and that's not enough voltage to keep the solenoid engaged. The relay gives the solenoid the full available voltage from the battery cable at the starter.

 

Always carry a squirt bottle.

 

Any relation to a "Lenord Atchly?

 

oops! I think I should have said "from 87" instead of "from 30".

 

Don; very likely so, but far far removed. Some of the Atchleys left out the "e" to spell it Atchly.

 

THANK YOU ALL VERY VERY MUCH FOR THIS HELP. You probably can't imagine how much I appreciate it.