Projects 4BANGER mild HotRod

I've now finished the front axle, with the shock absorber and mount.


The axle springs nicely when I stand on the frame, so I think it will work well.
The tie rod and drag link have been rebuilt with new Teflon seats.


All the bolts have been tightened,


and now I'm moving on to the rear axle.


Everything on the left side was oily, so not only is the seal broken, but the surface is rough. I'll try to repair it with a Speedy Sleeve.


Greetings Harald

 

You can fit a speedy sleeve on the bearing race and the bearing will still fit? I’ve never heard of such a thing. Usually the only solution is to machine down the stub and press a thick sleeve on it. Must be a hardened steel too.

 

The bearing surface is not touched, which is perfectly fine.
Only the running surface of the shaft seal is covered, which is behind the running surface of the bearing.
This is actually a tried-and-tested procedure.
I'll report back.
Greetings Harald

 

I removed the left rear brake and cleaned it of old oil/grease,



then put the Speedy Sleeve on the axle journal, removed the collar so the sleeve would fit further and checked the bearing's running pattern, it looks good and will definitely work.




Greetings Harald

 

Good deal.

 

I welded on the recessed tracks for the brake pad rollers and reworked them to the correct size






Drilled out the old brake pads and riveted on the new ones, and that was it.





Greetings Harald

 

We picked up this perfect 29 survivour, making some modifications. Was thinking of Willys Go Devil motor over the A

 

thanks for the updates
looking good....amazing what can be done with a 'hand mill'

 

Before we drove to the motor festival on Rømø in Denmark, I had to modify the bed on the pickup truck, both to make it more comfortable and to give us more storage space. Now that we're back from this fantastic event,.....





......we continued working on the coupe. The brake on the other side was disassembled and cleaned, the old pads removed, and new ones riveted on.

Then the pads were ground back into the brake drum. In the meantime, I had built brackets for the shock absorbers,




which were attached to the axle with longer screws, so I could reassemble the brakes and also finished the shock absorber mount.


Now the axle can be put back under the chassis.

 

Keep up the good work. Coming together nicely.

 

I really enjoy watching your approach to all of this. That truck/camper rig is just right. I also really like the silver car in the last picture from the meet. Thank you.

 

Thanks, the coupe isn't anything special, but it's my first time working with pre-war technology, and it's a lot of fun to work on.
The Chevy truck is a great car; it's a lot of fun.
It's a Ballard Special with twin 4-banger engines, something I've never seen before.
Greetings Harald

 

Ah, would have been good to meet you at Rømø but unlikely amongst the thousands of people there… I took the Cream T again.

 

I followed their oil pump test drive and looked for them on Rømø, but unfortunately without success.

I placed the rear axle under the frame and installed the rear spring. I first inserted the main spring and stacked the rest on top. I left out spring leaves 2 and 3 and tightened them together with screw clamps.


Now the axle is back in place,

the brake rods have been fitted with new fisheyes and bolts and are also installed.

The gearbox, bell housing, and flywheel housing were cleaned and painted.
Greetings Harald

 

Awesome Harald....looking really good!

 

Today I installed the Volvo M40 Gearbox; it looks like Henry wanted it that way.
I'm looking forward to the day I can drive the coupe.
Greetings Harald

 

The M40 looks great in there.

 

How is A arm attached to bottom of trans? Is that a heim or Johnny join? Front & rear the same?

 

It's an AA bellhousing, so it has the original wishbone mount on it. The front wishbone looks stock.

 

That's right, the bellhousing is from the AA, the wishbone from the A. I still need to build brackets to install the emergency brake and the pedals.
To adapt the transmission, an adapter was installed on the transmission output that is connected to the torque tube.
This is described earlier in my thread.


Thanks for stopping by.
Greetings Harald

 

That's a great looking kit. I went with torque tube on this beater and had me scratching my head on how to make some of the parts

 

You've done a great job, there's a lot of work involved.
The guy I bought the parts from is now in the process of recasting the bellhousing of the AA truck in aluminum.
Greetings Harald

 

I'd love to do that to my old heap (already have a m40 transmission), but it's a '28 with the multi-disk clutch. I know those have specific bell housings and transmissions, so I'll have to do some research about what will or will not work together. My mother had a PV544 for years back in the day, and I remember what a neat transmission it was. I guess I should get it on the road first, anyway.

 

That's what I would do, too.
It also needs at least a Volvo clutch disc; I don't know how different the flywheels are.
Greetings Harald

 

I've now finished a mount for the emergency brake lever; a picture here in the HAMB helped me with that.
First, I made a cardboard model,


then built it out of angle iron.


It fits tightly and works great.
Greetings Harald

 

That whole installation just looks perfect. Like it was always there.

 

I wanted to continue with the pedal brackets and had already received cut-out plates with the conversion kit, which I could use to build a mount.

I'm getting another part this weekend at the Airfield Club Race,

this one so I can support the shaft in the motor mount.

So I'll continue with that next week. Instead, I built and fitted the rear upper shock absorber mounts.

They sit on the bumper mount.



I'll shorten them and add a trailer hitch. I'll leave out the bumpers.