Technical Buying Fiberglass Bodies and Chassis from Different Companies

RJs builds a nice frame package.

 

I'm not sure that argument holds up. I've built three 'glass bodied roadsters, my current one is a '29 on '32 rails, built a beautiful '34 fender-less car and a full fender '27. The buy in is SO much less to build a 'glass car, I can't afford $25-to $50K for a bare steel body, then spend hundreds or thousands of hours to restore it (or pay someone else) and then have to double or triple that to build a complete car. I'm not going to be specific, but I've done VERY well when the time came so part them. This is supposed to be a fun hobby, it's expensive either way, but... I simply can't afford to spend over $100K on a car that might be worth half that when completed, I'd rather spend my money on a car that I can recoup the investment on, have fun while doing it and not put us in financial jeopardy doing so.

 

That Vicky looks like a deal, but he already said it's not what he wants. He said he wants a 3W coupe as his retirement project, so building a Vicky because it's a deal makes zero sense because it's a compromise on what he wanted.

 

What you'll find with new parts for hot rods is that they almost all require some amount of modification to work as intended. You'll be amazed and pleased when you find some that just fit together without issue.

There are a lot of us here that have cars that aren't fully traditional or traditional at all. You can still learn things and go your own way with your build. Try it and see what you think. Glad to have you!

 

I would also suggest that you hang around. There are builds here that can be a guide, and this place has a knowledge base second to none. You can look at other places too. Knowledge is power, so arm yourself!
I'll also mention that while buying brand new is great and supporting the places like P&J helps the whole hobby, getting a stalled project or completed car close to your desired result can save enough to make it affordable. The first step is to define what your final vision is, and then select and price out all the parts. Make sure they will all work with each other and be a cohesive whole. Make a napkin drawing or an excel spreadsheet, but have a fairly complete and researched plan.
Body, chassis, drivetrain, electrical, cooling, interior, exterior, accessories, wheels, tires, exhaust, controls.

This one can be a very strong guide to the build process and choices made to fit HAMB era, but also show what is required to put one together.
https://www.jalopyjournal.com/forum/threads/glass-32-5-window.1049484/

Here's a 34, but all the pics are gone.
https://www.jalopyjournal.com/forum/threads/my-glass-34-tudor-build.647514/

 

They have a Forum on here called "Off Topic" if you look at the initial screen that comes up for the Hamb. The idea for the Hamb is to build pre 66 cars and parts. Generally they don't put independent front suspensions under traditional cars and they don't accept prostreet rear tires or billet wheels. Avoid those 3 things and you can find a lot of knowledge here along with (as @Bandit Billy says) a lot you didn't ask. Myself, I'm building a 32 Coupe and have purchased the independent front suspension.........so I post about it on the "Off Topic" section for newer technology. The pre 66 stuff does have some allowable exceptions out of necessity, like 350 Chevys and overdrive transmissions. Again, my coupe will have a Cadillac engine in it.........with electronic fuel injection. The P&J is actually a TCI set up and its a good choice because it comes with a built in sway bar and adjustable cams for alignment. Other systems may charge extra or not at all. Anyway, welcome to the Hamb.........and hopefully the "Off Topic" Forum where you can discuss the things that will make your car the way you want it............

Edit: If you decide to take a chance and stay, tell us what types of skills you have, as solutions to problems often depend on what the builder is capable of doing and which ones he will need help with.

 

@Kansas Gary, HAMB members can forgive anything (other than being a Chiefs fan) you just have to build your car in the right forum. Heck, I have a Toyota 4x4 thread and one for my 442 on the off topic site.

You can also just learn to edit your photos and not talk about the off topic stuff like IFS, EFI, LS, MII, AC, PW, GPS, ASS, (that last one wasn't an acronym). Who knows, the power of the HAMB may have you second guessing your build preference before long. Peer pressure is a wonderful thing at times.

Go with your glass body, if it is fenderless (funny, my computer changed that to "genderless", sign of the times) don't run IFS (IMO). If you are running a full hood, who cares what power train it is. Coil overs are fine as long as they aren't hanging out the ass end. Above all, try to be original and not just knock off someone else's ride. As the saying goes, "it's been done".

There is a coolness to what we build. No, they are not all "traditionally compliant," I skirt the edges but I build what I want and I like what I build. But I don't insult the HAMB by parading a street rod or rat rod on these hallowed pages of hotroddum. You'll catch on...if you stay.

I had the frame for my 34 Ford built locally (Troutdale, OR) by Daryl Schroeder. So Cal front end, Winters QC, quarter ellipticals. He does excellent work.

 

If you have the skills to screw a car together, getting the body to chassis mounting locations to match up is not a big deal no matter what combination you choose, fiberglass is pretty forgiving.
My Wescott body is as good as they come for being dimensionally (and visually) correct, my chassis was also built by a pro chassis builder but a few holes in the fiberglass floor needed a little love with a rotary burr in a die grinder.
Whether you choose a steel or a glass body you will need to "make it your own".

 

Go Chiefs!

 

I even had a Toyota engine in a steel 32 ,Plain to put back in ,

Native

 

Oh man..... NICE!!! Nothing better than some good chassis porn....

 

Stick around…build it as traditional as you can…skip the fad/modern stuff, and the resale will definitely be better…timeless, doesn't go out of style!

 

What the ? I think those SBC's has tainted your mind Douglass!

 

Check with your state what all will be involved on titled & registering it... Ask me how I know here in Minnesota Was a nightmare Gene in Mn

 

Yup 24/7!

 

https://www.jalopyjournal.com/forum...e-32-34-ford-fiberglass-cars-any-pics.988012/
Take a look at this thread. Wescott out of Oregon are about the nicest glass bodies I've seen; don't think they do a 33/34? But they do a 32 three window. Bad Bob does not hang out here much anymore, a friend of his built a really nice traditional style glass 33/34 coupe, there was a thread on the car several years ago, I cannot recall the name of the thread maybe someone else can? Splitbudaba has a build thread going he's building a great looking glass 32 five window. My 2 cents on glass bodies, avoid hidden hinges and glued in windshield. Good luck and have fun!

 

I've researched the laws here in Kansas and am told they are a builder friendly state. They say the key here is photos, documentation and receipts for as many components as possible. Might not be that easy in real life, but appears to be doable.
~Gary

 

Hello all, just a quick update on my '34 Coupe project. After considering the many comments here and lots of further soul searching, I decided to build much more traditional looking car. It will still be glass and have a narrowed 9" and steamroller tires, but now with a dropped drilled I-beam axle, door handles, working cowl vent and crank down rear window.
I went to Pete & Jakes last week to see my chassis build underway in the jig and dropped off a core 390/C6 for them to mock up the mounts. When the rolling chassis is finished in a couple of weeks, it will go to Show Me Rod and Custom for the body to be built on the chassis. The 390 will stay installed during that in case any mods need to happen to the firewall/trans tunnel. Very happy to know that when I get it home my 428 should slide right in.
Thanks for all the encouragement!

 

Since you are a paying customer, pick the builder's brains for suggestions and warnings about all the details you will be adding. I'd imagine they will ask a few questions and give you info based on your vision and their experience.
An old story is to pay an attorney for a half hour of their time and ask for help. Most of them once they get going can't stop, so you get your money's worth!

 

You are absolutely right! I've had many phone calls with both builders over the last nine months and even the seemingly simple questions have turned into ~45 minute discussions. Both of them (Jason Slover and Tony Curry) have been extremely helpful. They both have 30+ years in the hot rod world and provide great guidance without pressuring me to do it "their" way.

 

Chiefs are woke!

 

You went the best route, having the body built on your chassis. Should be quite a handful with a 428!

 

Glad you ae on a better path. I have never dealt with the Show Me guys, but I know the Pete and Jakes crew are fantastic. Good choice on the FE, they are a bit on the heavy side, but can make plenty of power and look bitchn with some extra carbs and cool valve covers. It's not too late to throw a third pedal in there....

-Abone.

 

You've learned well in a short time.

 

Buy everything from Pete & Jakes and everything will be quality parts!!!!

 

Pete n Jakes = Good people

 

I am finishing the build stage on my coupe. I bought a 32 5 w kit from a company R&R Fiberglass. I went with these guys mainly because they hand laminated every piece including the body. What that meant is a uniform thickness even in the corners. That way I could bond in all the UPAC interior structure steel and wood. Worked great. Check out my build here. Glass '32 5 Window. I think I bought a bare perimeter frame from Blackboard. SoCal, Speedway, and Summit loved me for about 5 years!!

 

Abone,
I was originally going to go with a factory 3x2 setup and 4 speed that I've have had for many decades, but to be more streetable, I've decided to go with an 8 Stack EFI and a C6. I was also going to run my chrome "powered by ford valve" covers but they are a bit pitted, and I think these polished 428 American Eagle valve covers would be a better look with the aluminum heads and the polished 8 Stack intake.
I cracked up about your "third pedal" comment. I had such a hard time deciding that I'm having P&Js install the clutch master cylinder bracket and a bushing to replace the clutch pedal. Just in case I decide to swap the top loader in someday! Nothing like the sound of a 4 speed going through the gears!

 

I recommend you give the fat rear tires a second thought. I have a close friend that pro-streeted his 40 Pontiac coupe and ran into a whopper T-storm returning from an event in Florida, hydro-planed and did a 360 totally out of control, luckily without hitting anything. After changing his drawers, he slowly and carefully drove home but didn't drive the car again until he had removed the pro-street rear suspension and put in a normal one.

 

^^^^^^^
X2 With big tires , when unexpectedly
Rain , run into water like 1/2 , will hydro fast