Hot Rods lowering 39/40 Ford

doing some armchair fabricating until the weather warms up, here in the' Burgh. When you lower the front on a 39/40 does the axle centerline move the wheel centerline on the front fender opening?

 

If you are going to put a dropped axle in it with a stock, unsplit wishbone, yes it will move it back slightly, depending on how much you lower it.

 

I think, Posies' In Da Dirt kit centers them.

 

If the spring remains in the stock crossmember, the wheel will look like it’s moving back the lower you go. Only way to recenter the wheel is either shorten the distance between spring and axle (not advised because it’s already kinda tight), or move the crossmember forward.

 

Anyone have any photos for some comparison?

 

This is a pic of our '38 with a dropped axle and the crossmember moved forward 1 3/8".

 

Man, with the ass that high how do you stay in the seat? You save money driving down hill like that?

 

Make a good place for a nap on a hot day. I really need to pick up the back of the 41 PU. The springs are relaxing to the point the white wall is buried in the fender. I think it is down 1.5" from the happy place.

 

Im not a chassis guy, but what all is involved doing that? Did you lengthen the bones or move the mount point forward? I love straight axles and I love cars that are lowered, but I Cant Stand the look of the wheel back in the wheel well. Thought the only way around that problem was a must 2 front end, glad its not.

 

My 40 spent most it's life as a Sacramento hot rod. When I bought it there was a Magnum 4 inch axle, Posie low front spring, 46-48 bones and Volvo. brakes. Front was fine, I changed to Super Bell Power Stoppers with power booster. The rear had a stock rear spring with leaves removed and stretched 36 bones that were starting to bow hooked to a very rough 8 inch rear. I changed to a CE Parallel leaf kit with a nice Maverick 8 inch. I ended up doing 2 inch adjustable lowering blocks. Now sits good and works good. No bottoming out.

 

I moved the crossmember forward by one set of holes, the bones were split and new mounting points were installed. Here's a photo of the chassis upside down.



Here's a photo showing the crossmember moved forward by one set of holes.

 

I jumped one set of holes on my 39 for oil pan clearance(289 with fox oil pan and 42 truck deep crossmember, stock 39 trans, torque tube rear) but 1/2 way thu all this, plans have changed , scored a fresh bronco rear, will go parallel leaves, 66 mustang 3 speed with jeep top shifter. Will see if I got to put the stock cross member back in, in stock position, once everything is mocked up for the final time, if there ever is a final time!

 

Thanks for the pics and info. What would you do to a car that the chassis was already done with pete and jake stuff and welded center mount like you have? Cut mounts and weld new ones in after the cross member has been moved forward one rivet hole? Or lengthen the bones the extra inch or so and bolt them in? Just curious, not sure it will ever bug me enough to do that much work after all the other crap Ive had to deal with on this car, but would really like to know. Thanks so much

 

As I said above when I got my 40 it had 46-48 bones. I assume that to solve the length problem?

 

I'd cut the rear mount tabs and move them forward...or make a new lower plate with the tabs where you need them.

 

Ok thanks again for info.

 

My 39 was pretty lined up But my 40 was back in the opening a bit. The 40 was lower than the 39.

 

Dan’s cars are a perfect example of the lower you go, the worse the misalignment shows.