Technical Ford flathead first start-up advice

After 8 yrs of blood sweat, and tears, I should finally be ready to fire up my C59A for the very first time tomorrow if all goes well. I just want to run the engine to break-in the cam for 20 minutes. I have no way of driving or putting a load on the engine right now to seat the rings.
Just looking for any advice or pointers before the point of no return.

Some background details:

1. Engine rebuilt between 2021-2023
2. Engine is stk except has a Isky 1007B grind.
3. Generator, starter, carb, fuel pump, distributor are all rebuilt.
4. Electrical is 6 VDC pos ground.
5. Engine has 5W-30 Lucas Hotrod oil.
6. Radiator is rear mount with electric cooling fan.
7. Believe it has 180 F thermostats, and fan is tripped to come on at 190 F IIRC.
8. Coolant is a mixture of distilled water and antifreeze 50/50.
9. There is an oil pressure gauge, coolant temp gauge, vacuum gauge connector Ted to the engine (all hard plumbed). I’ll use a hand held optical tech to measure engine rpm.
10. I’ll be moving it outside to start it up.

 

Pressurize your oil system before firing it up.

https://www.google.com/search?q=pre...mobile-gws-wiz-hp&sei=XaHIaMGdGpDfp84Pgcf4qA0

 

One of the things I always do is pull the plugs and crank the engine over until I see oil pressure. Then I put the plugs back in and fire it up.

 

I agree with this. Pressurizing a flathead is quite a task and requires a pressure tank and a few other things that most people don't have on hand. If everything else was done right (proper assembly lube, etc.) turning it over with the starter motor shouldn't have any ill effects.

One thing I did was to remove the oil sending unit until I saw oil appear at the port. I figured it would have less resistance to flowing that way. As soon as I saw oil, I re-inserted the sending unit.

 

Be sure to use some Marvel Mystery Oil!

 

I've read a lot about what some on here think is the right oil to use, and I'm curious as to why you chose the oil you did.

Just wondering, what are the bearing clearances on your rods and mains? From '41 through '48, the Ford V8 rod bearing clearances run from .0017 to .0036, and the mains run from .000 to .003. From '49 through '51, they tightened up to .0005 to .0027 on the rods. The mains stayed the same .000 to .003 until '51 when they went to .001 to .002. In '54, when Ford went to the overhead V8, the rod bearing clearance went from .0005 to .0021 and the mains went the same, .0005 to .0021. That whole time, the oils we used were straight weight 30's, 40's, 50's and sometimes even higher with the choice of detergent or non-detergent. Personally, I never ran non-detergent because it was such a PITA to chisel and scrape it out of a lifter valley.

The reason I'm asking is that my stock 59AB, carrying 120 #s compression, using a stock oil pump and 30w detergent oil is running down the road pushing 35-40 PSI oil pressure. It idles at 10PSI. I considered using a multi-weight oil, but I'm pretty happy with the combination I've got. Much later, after the advent of tighter clearances on the newer engines, the 10w-30's and '40's came along and those engines worked pretty well with the thinner oils and the increase in flow.

So, I'm curious, did you reduce the rod and main clearances, or is it a non-issue?

 

How do you have 4 exhaust ports?

 

Damn! Thanks for reminding me. I had built a pressure tank and have a thread on here about the debacle and then just went with a cheap plastic sprayer. Got to find it and re-pressurize it.

 

Long story, but I didn’t want the uninitiated thinking it was a V6.

 

I never even thought to ask the machinist. I recall the crank being sent out for a regrind, but don’t recall what size the bearings were. There was an issue getting one of the bearings as it was incorrect for this engine, and the correct set had to be reordered. I should have probably asked for all that info.
I just went with the Lucas stuff as it supposedly has higher zinc content. Was just going to use some Shell Rotella oil I had lying around originally, but read a bunch of stuff saying folks like the Lucas oil. Biggest issue is getting things pressurized before starting like others have said. I trust the machinist who did the work, but the proof will be in the pudding.

 

The modern thin oils are as much for MPG as anything. Old tolerances were 5 to 7 thou, modern ones are still fairly close to that, but tighter + to - tolerances with select bearings, machining, etc.

You said outside, I'd want a garden hose to be able to cool the radiator and knock down any external combustion. Fresh engines tend to have more friction and run hotter. Plus it will need dialing in. Hate having to shut them down during break-in if it can be avoided.
I like temp guns to monitor exhaust for misfires or lean, head temps for coolant flow, belt temp., just everything.
A second set of eyes can be useful. Just discuss before hand that if you are looking at the gauges and the top, they should be looking below for leaks. Show how to shut it down and work out signals if it's going to be loud (higher RPM).

 

Don’t forget to polarize the gen

 

Only thing I’d do differently is run just water (no antifreeze) on the first start and verify no leaks/seeps.

 

This is a real good tip. I'd rather clean up plain water than an anti-freeze mix. Plus if you take this step, it won't have any coolant leaks. They only happen when you mix up a bunch of spendy antifreeze.

 

Thanks all for the advice and tips. I’ve asked my kiddo to help out. More eyes and hands is always a good thing in these circumstances. Will have the garden hose handy as well, plus tools to tighten up bolts and clamps, etc. I’ve already had one debacle while re-filling the coolant that left a mess on my floor. Too late now, but agree that just water is the way to go. System was pressure tested previously and passed, but will redo the test.
I’m a huge fan of Nick’s Garage YT channel where he rebuilds and dynos those engines as well as engines he did not rebuild. When you see the myriad of issues that typically develop, you wonder how any engine builder could ship out an engine without putting it on a dyno first. In fact, he recently said just that. I did email him asking if they’d be interested in putting mine on their dyno, but never heard back. lol!

 

Good lookin rig. Hope you record the start-up for us to watch!

 

Beat me to it. Never do a start up with antifreeze in the radiator. Plenty of time to winterize it later.

 

Yes sir. That’s the plan. Will need to post it on YT somehow. Delayed cause kiddo is leaving for Edmonton, AB tomorrow and wanted me to go into town with her. She’s then going moose hunting on the weekend. lol!

Checked the coolant system. Pressurized it to 22 psi, no leaks. Then kept adding air and it spiked to 40 psi suddenly. Noticed drips at the front of the engine. Was leaking from one of the clamps. Had two other clamps leaking a bit as well. Tightened them up, and leaks stopped, but reduced pressure down to 20 psi. Will be back in a couple of hrs, and will jump back on it.

 

40 pounds in the coolant system might push it past the pump seals, or the head gaskets. No need for that high. Lots of flatheads weep coolant past the heads studs from their loose threads. Don’t need to push it past the small bit of gasket between studs and water port too.

 

Nice! I'm headed to the UP Fri morning to live in the woods for a bit...hoping to spot a moose or two myself!

 

I run mufflers on start-ups so you can hear what the engine is doing, before it goes all bad.

 

I've see 14 pounds push coolant past the pumps. These are 4lb systems if they are pressurized at all. Interesting.

 

Lowest setting I could get for the thermostat to fit my Dodge Dakota radiator was 9 psi, so IIRC was testing coolant system at 2 to 2.5 times that pressure. I know folks mentioned these flatheads typically operated with no pressure (no thermostats) or max around 4 psi. Pics of the pump shafts. Had another coolant debacle when after relieving the pressure, or so I thought, I pulled the adapter off at the radiator and coolant gushed out.

 

Will continue to update progress in my build thread here.

https://www.jalopyjournal.com/forum/threads/my-gn-cycle-car-tribute-build.1131795/page-36

 

Maybe have a fire extinguisher handy too. - Good Luck - looking forward to the video

 

Wet towel, puts out fire without the mess. Garden hose ready, good for cooling down a radiator if needed to keep the break-in going. Battery on the charger a couple hours before use. Plenty of fuel ready, they use more than you think they would.

 

Posted some updates in my build thread, but will summarize here

1. Had more fuel leaks at carb and pump outlet. Still have one to fix at pump outlet.
2. Didn’t get oil pressure to register on oil pressure gauge. Gauge is plumbed to rear of block and I verified function with shop air. Also verified that some oil was coming out of port going to gauge, but seems like a trickle. So was wondering how much oil and how long should it take to register pressure? Only crank engine for maybe up to 5 seconds at a time.

 

The more you crank it, the less break-in grease you will have on the camshaft. You either start it as is, keep cranking, or build a pressure system to prime it.

 

Yeah. I’m thinking same thing. Was already pre-oiled with my Home Depot weed sprayer.

 

Back into town to buy a 1/8” NPT tap to McGuyver up a fuel fitting that will hopefully fix the leak.