Funny timing, I just set up a bucket to do this today. Can't wait to get home and see how it worked. The water sure got ugly quick, I hope that equate to good cleaning. CHAZ
I have used it successfully several times with just a trickle charger. Only limitations are the size of your container. This is by far the best system I`ve found. Jerry
I've done this a couple of times. Got a friend who's a chemist, says it converts the rust to black oxide, which would be a good to protect the metal if it would "hold on". The black oxide has a weaker bond than the rust and comes off fairly easy with a wire brush. What ever doesn't come off wont harm anything. Unlike the molases trick, it won't harm the base metal, just turn it on and let 'er rip. It does put off hydrogen gas though, so no Lucky Stikes near the bucket.
I set one up a few years ago using a plastic 55 gal, barrel, I still use it and it works great. What I like best about it is I am cleaning parts while I am doing something else. This is the link I based mine off of. http://antique-engines.com/electrol.asp
I've used it many times. It even worked to break free some seriously rusted parts including a 75ish year old "that's actually a tool?!?" that turned into a functioning slipjoint pliers.
this conversation has come up before on the hamb.. im curious how the metal is being effected on the molecular level? does it weaken the piece being cleaned at all?
i6t shouldn't. you're not really doing anything to the metal it's self, just running electricity through it. Same as when your battery is grounded to the block.
Supposedly you would have some hydrogen embrittlement but I doubt a 12v 10amp battery charger is going to amount to much. I've been doing it for a while now. Much faster than vinegar. I use vinegar when its a bunch of small parts too difficult to clamp on to. You can use plain old salt and water. You don't have to use baking soda, washing soda, or any of the other stuff. I used a 5/16" bar of steel for the anode. I was amazed how much was eaten away over time.
i was reading a little about hydrogen embrittlement on wikipedia... looks as though there is a correction for this. it also doesnt seem as critical when dealing with dash's or accessory type things... but how about an engine block? or reciprocating components? perhaps suspension pieces too? ... it becomes more critical to pay attention to what you are doing in these instances wouldnt you say? Process The mechanism begins with hydrogen atoms diffusing through the metal. When these hydrogen atoms re-combine in miniscule voids of the metal matrix to hydrogen molecules, they create pressure from inside the cavity they are in. This pressure can increase to levels where the metal has reduced ductility and tenslie strength, up to where it can crack open, in which case it would be called Hydrogen Induced Cracking (HIC). High-strength and low-alloy steels, aluminium, and titanium alloys are most susceptible. Hydrogen embrittlement can happen during various manufacturing operations or operational use, anywhere where the metal comes in contact with atomic or molecular hydrogen. Processes which can lead to this include cathodic protection, phosphating, pickling, and electroplating. A special case is arc welding, in which the hydrogen is released from moisture (for example in the coating of the welding electrodes; to minimize this, special low-hydrogen electrodes are used for welding high-strength steels). Other mechanisms of introduction of hydrogen into metal are galvanic corrosion, chemical reactions of metal with acids, or with other chemicals (notably hydrogen sulfide in sulphide stress cracking, or SSC, a process of importance for the oil and gas industries). Counteractions If the metal has not yet started to crack, the condition can be reversed by removing the hydrogen source and causing the hydrogen within the metal to diffuse out - possibly at elevated temperatures. Susceptible alloys, after chemical or electrochemical treatments where hydrogen is produced, are often subjected to heat treatment, in order to remove absorbed hydrogen. In the case of welding, often pre- and post-heating the metal is applied to allow the hydrogen to diffuse out before it can cause any damage. This is specifically done with high-strength steels and low alloy steels such as the chrome/molybdenum/vanadium alloys. Due to the time needed to re-combine hydrogen atoms to the harmful hydrogen molecules, hydrogen cracking due to welding can occur over 24 hours after the welding operation is completed.
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