Projects Mish-Mash Nash -'52 Rambler Wagon

I got both belts out and held the crank pulley in its approximate position, and it looks like the alternator-to-frame rail clearance is more than sufficient:




I have to figure out how to best run the wiper linkage, as well, so I cleaned up and mounted the wiper pivots in the cowl panel, and...that's all I've got:






The pivots use a pulley and cable system, tied into a vacuum operated motor (which is long gone), so I may end up using something similar, but tucked up under the cowl and out of sight. Both pivots still move freely, so I have that going for me. I don't think a more modern style linkage and electric motor will work, so I will figure something out.

 

I stumbled upon this nice Corvair steering wheel a few weeks ago at the salvage yard and was quite pleased:



Subsequent research indicated it was a '64 wheel, which uses a smaller steering shaft spline diameter than most '60s GM vehicles. '64-'66 Corvair steering columns and shafts are a bit thin on the ground around here, so I focused on finding a '60-'63 Corvair column and shaft, which use the larger, more common spline diameter, then locate a '61-'63 Corvair wheel to match. An early Corvair parts lot turned up on fb marketplace, so by Sunday evening I had the column (and a placeholder '60 steering wheel) I needed. A test fit revealed the Corvair column parts will work well, and the shaft length and angle are almost perfect, though I still need to decide upon and source a steering gear box:






The wheel is in a comfortable driving position for me, and I can see the future gauge location (original radio location) clearly, too:

 

I was under the impression that all Corvair steering wheels used that oddball smaller spline, that's good to know about the earlier ones. I like the Impala-ish 2 tone Corvair wheels, they're quite nice looking for what was a cheap car.

 

I found that out after the fact, which might be why the wheel was removed by someone else, then left behind. Here's where I read the info: https://corvaircenter.com/forum/viewtopic.php?p=1186885&hilit=steering+box#p1186885

I agree on the styling of the wheel-- just enough detail to catch your eye, but not overdone.

 

Yep, form follows function. Looks 'right' there. Sculpted, but not flashy.

 

The only modern wiper system that would work is a cable drive system such as used in some British cars (60s MGs and I think Jags). Specialty Power Windows sells a universal kit. These use a "toothed" cable that drive a gear on the wiper pivot, like a rack and pinion. The motor is on one end, mounted on a kick panel or under the dash. They run around $300-375 for the kit.
https://www.speedwaymotors.com/Basi...Rdat7yFc1oyyX7qP24RcxkMwwVFPFEdzWDFBJvyYDFxmq

I think a Jeep CJ speedo fits (5.5" hole?). Speedhut makes one that is GPS and has a tach as well as the fuel and temp gauges the stock one has. Stock speedo/gauge ***embly is relatively cheap at $150-200 or so (90 or 140 mph speedo), the Speedhut units are just over $750!

 

The wiper pivots I have are not perfect, but they rotate smoothly, so I will figure out something to connect the cables and drive motor. I need to decide on fresh air ducting and packaging under the cowl first, then work out the wiper drive system.

I picked up a '55(?) Rambler Uniscope cluster a few months ago and the plan is to use the speedometer at a minimum, and wire the turn signal indicators to the "NO CHARGE" and "LOW PRESS" light sockets in the cluster.



I am going to run vintage VDO gauges, and the oil pressure gauge arrived Friday. I have plenty of room to run all four auxiliary gauges in the space the factory radio once occupied. I just need to find a/the matching fuel and water temp gauges and senders:

 

I never saw a gauge that didn't use the psi abbreviation before, that's unique.

 

@In_The_Pink For an example of wiper and vents tucked into a tight area, I suggest you read through The Belly ****on Bucket thread. You've gotta have more room than Tim does!
https://www.jalopyjournal.com/forum/threads/the-belly-****on-bucket-build-thread.1000590/

 

The vac wiper motors are simple back and forth jobs, so an electric motor designed for a single wiper arm should work. I haven't tried one pulling two blades though. I hope you have the original wiper motor. I just looked at my 1952 TSM (the oldest Rambler one I have). It doesn't have a real clear pic of the arms on the motor, but it appear to be two - one on each side of the shaft. They are rather short. It's hard to tell from the description and photos, but it looks like the ends of the cables mount on the motor arms. It mentions that you need to mount the cables on the arms first, and use masking tape to hold them to the arms. Then thread the cables over the left and right tensioners. If you need it I can scan those 3-4 pages. PM me an e-mail address if you want me to do that.

 

Gauge number two has arrived, and while it'a bit faded/dirty overall, it should work fine. I have yet to find a voltmeter from VDO that matches these two gauges, so I will run this ammeter for now, as I'm not planning to run a large amount of current through it, nor multiple electrical accessories.

 

Any updates to share?

 

Thanks for asking, but not much progress to report, unfortunately. I swapped out one daily driver, so I spent some time taking care of neglected maintenance, which ate up most of October.

I found a fuel level gauge which matches the two VDO gauges I already have, and purchased a second ammeter as a spare/parts donor, so if I can find a matching water temperature gauge, I will be in great shape:



I realized I probably don't have enough dash height to make under-dash mounted clutch and pedals work well, so I bought some Nash Metropolitan(?) pedals for use instead. Still need to get the firewall and toeboard settled upon first, but at least I have an alternate option on hand now:

 

The V8 logo on the fuel gauge is neat, what do R and V stand for? Interesting that it reads TANK instead of FUEL.

 

Might be a German gauge, so R for "Reserve" and V for "Voll" (full).

 

I wonder if these guys are still around?

 

It's from a Glas V8, so yes, very German. The resistance range is quite different than the 0-33 ohm Tri-Five Chevy fuel sender I already have, too, so I will probably take the easy route and use an adapter, like so: https://www.tanksinc.com/index.cfm/...ct_id=748/category_id=-1/mode=prod/prd748.htm

 

If you don't mind me asking, what happened to the Glas V8?

 

Call Tanks, Inc. This may be the fuel sender for VDO fuel gauge.
https://www.tanksinc.com/index.cfm/page/ptype=product/product_id=830/mode=prod/prd830.htm

Or this:
https://www.tanksinc.com/index.cfm/page/ptype=product/product_id=346/mode=prod/prd346.htm

 

More fuel senders here:
https://www.isspro.com/aftermarket/fuel-sender-98/

It looks like VDO is a Euro brand.

 

Or really inexpensive experiment:
https://www.ebay.com/itm/184853988673

 

VDO general info
https://vdo-instruments.com/product/reed-switch-fuel-sender-330mm-10-180-ohm/

 

Not sure, I just bought the individual gauge.

Thanks. I have correct sending unit for the '56 Chevy fuel tank I am locked into using, so the electronic converter for $90 should do the trick, and I can use it on something else if necessary, too.

I *think* the ohm range for the gauge I have is 21-236, which is what is stamped into the rear face of the gauge housing:

 

Right. Those are as rare as hens's teeth even here in Europe, I'd love to have one but...