Technical Is this ‘63 Impala too high

I wasn't looking at his neck man

 

If you cut the springs in half it might sit right… of course the rear would need to come down ~10”.

 

Yup, I got a nosebleed just looking at the picture..

 

So I ditched those moog springs are cut one coil off the original springs. Looks normal and rides better. Yeah stay away from moog springs. Post pics tomorrow

 

Let's re-examine the meaning of "high"... love the whitewalls with Cragars. In the 70s our family car was a '72 Nova with Cragars and Sears whitewalls.

 

I took 2 coils out of my '66 Belair springs. I got them from Rock Auto, name brand.

The wire diameter was a little bigger than the stock ones, that could do it. We tried one side. It was way too high.

 

Those MOOG springs were the right part number from what I recall when you were installing them. People here warned you that something was wrong at the time of initial install by your description that you were struggling to get them in with the car otherwise at full weight. It's always easier to sort out bad parts the first time.

Now that you've changed springs and ride height it needs an alignment again.

Did they ride stiff too? I've got a set of Moog springs waiting to go in my 62 Chevy. Generally, Moog stuff is very good. Maybe a mistake was made on that batch or part number.

 

Cut a couple coils

 

Which part number did you use?
6000, 6084, or 658A?

Measure the free height of the spring as well as the wire diameter.

 

Rock Auto shows a couple of choices for Moog springs for 63 small block Impalas A 658A in the heavy duty side for 9 p***enger wagons with air. or a 6000 for converts, hardtops or sedans without air .
Are you sure that you don't have the station wagon springs?
Back in the 60's when the jacked up in the front look was the hot lick it was common for guys with those Chevys to install a set of station wagon springs to lift the front end up but not use spacers or other nonsense.

 

I looked there also for the 6cyl application, same options. Thinking maybe with a spring for a lighter engine, it would settle down more with a v8. When I converted a '67 Camaro to BBC, I installed springs for a 396 car, but still had the 327 in at the time and the front end was raised until the engine swap.

 

*Laughs in ~650lbs of Stovebolt.*

 

Got me there... I figured the 6 would be lighter!

 

Would a ‘63 have a 230?

 

Yes, they phased the stove bolt out in '62.

 

Coil Springs Specialties in Kansas is the place to go for coil springs. They can dial up or down depending on your taste & application. I’ve used them a few times and they have always been spot on for me. Personally, that original posted picture reminds me of a Jr Stock 1/4 mile car look and I LIKEY!

 

Just needed to raise the back a little!

 

This is a Hot Rod and Custom car site, "Low Riders belong somewhere else, not here, They are neither Rod or Custom

Oh Boy here comes the "Heat" !

 

Lower it.

 

Yeah, what up widat?

 

Looks like an early sixties Super Stocker. I like it.

 

I am sure I am late to the party I see you replaced the rebuilt the front end and replaced the springs did you do replace or rebuild any part of the rear suspension?

If not, the front end may not be high the rear end might be low (sagged)

 

I love the way you are going with this car, it’s looking really nice and would love to have it sitting in my driveway

 

In my opinion the question should be "is this too low?" And the answer is always no.

Even after you cut a coil, it sits too high for my preference. Cut another coil.

 

I'll admit I'm biased, but I think '63 Chevies look best really low. This is how mine sits now...and it was lower until I moved over to disc brakes which required me raising the front end about an inch due to fender rub.

 

I went with the CPP "original offset" front disc kit so it didn't kick the tires out like basically every other kit. Didn't need to raise the front, I'm tucking the whitewall on 15's on my 62.

 

Thought '64 was the first year of the Thrift Six, mea culpa.

Do you have the part number or measure the spring free height and wire diameter to confirm?

Spring clocking is critical.
On front LCA spring pocket there are usually two holes, end of the tangential end should cover one hole, not both. If it covers both it can bind the spring up.

On rear pigtailed end usually has to point a certain way either towards the D side or Pside. Can't just slap them in any direction.

Not only is it important to tighten suspension when properly laden, but one must also verify the suspension is not bound up beforehand.
After the car is back on the ground, roll it forward and backwards a few feet. Jounce the car a bit, nothing to wild, just want to get the car settled. Roll it back and forth and it should be pretty well settled.
Tires will keep the suspension jacked if car is not rolled after lowered to ground.

Those little teeth on bushing ends can grab, and if the old indents are catching on the new bushing crush sleeve teeth, it can hang up the suspension.

Leave the sway bar disconnected as well as shocks. Some gas charged shocks can lift the car if all the pivot bolts are loose. And older non-charged shocks can also be very stiff and not allow the suspension to settle evenly.

IIRC rear lower shock mounts
is also the same bolt for the axle side of the lower control arms on X-frame cars. I don't recall if the actual shock is used to aid in clocking this stud-bolt, or if it is designed in a way it can only go in one way.

A note on spring ends.
I agree, replacement springs that are not closed and ground, like factory, seems cheap and lazy. Open end is most likely done for speed and cost cutting at the factory. Less material is wasted, can make a single long coil and then cut it into however many pieces are needed.