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Technical 223 6-cyl valve adjustment...

Discussion in 'The Hokey Ass Message Board' started by MrModelT, Mar 1, 2018.

  1. MrModelT
    Joined: Nov 11, 2008
    Posts: 2,745

    MrModelT
    Member

    I know this topic has been covered before, but I some specific questions.

    I recently saved a '54 Customline that has 223/3-spd combo. It's been sitting since 1978 so I decided to pull the head and go through the motor.

    It's a 1963 223 (was swapped for the original at some point) so it has the later 1961-'64 "Silent Rockers".

    How do I adjust them correctly. I know the specs, I just can't find any reference at all as to HOW to set them.....

    Thanks!

    ~Mr. ModelT
     

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    Last edited: Mar 1, 2018
    chryslerfan55 likes this.
  2. Rusty O'Toole
    Joined: Sep 17, 2006
    Posts: 9,756

    Rusty O'Toole
    Member

    They are supposed to be self adjusting.
     
  3. town sedan
    Joined: Aug 18, 2011
    Posts: 1,288

    town sedan
    Member

    The Silent Lash system, one of Ford's better Rube Goldberg contraptions. If you really want to keep it I'd suggest picking up an early sixties Ford car shop manual with the Silent Lash information in it. Or, since you're going into the engine you might consider replacing the head, or at least the valve train. Maybe pick up a 1959 & earlier 223 head with the two center bolt holes. Then you could run the cool Offy cast and finned valve cover on it. Good luck.
    -Dave
     
  4. sunbeam
    Joined: Oct 22, 2010
    Posts: 6,392

    sunbeam
    Member

    From motor's manual Piston at tdc push eccentric toward rocker until plunger is completely into it's rocker bore. Turn adjuster in until eccentric and plunger is held in the depressed position. Slowly turn adjusting screw out until adjustment mark on eccentric is centered over the valve stem and lock adjuster repeat on all cylinders. After rockers have been adjusted start engine and let idle observe marks and adjust as necessary to center mark over valve stem
     
  5. junkyardjeff
    Joined: Jul 23, 2005
    Posts: 8,694

    junkyardjeff
    Member

    The reason those motors were so noisy is the excessive clearance they are supposed to be set at,I am thinking its .018 intake and exhaust. I was working on one and was going to experiment with setting them a little tighter but never got around to doing it.
     
  6. Great to see you posting Clayton- have missed you bud!!!
     
  7. Adriatic Machine
    Joined: Jan 26, 2008
    Posts: 897

    Adriatic Machine
    ALLIANCE MEMBER

    @junkyardjeff did you ever try this? I’d like to quiet down the valvetrain on my 223 if possible.

    Tomorrow I’ll readjust the valves using a dial indicator instead of a feeler gage and see if that makes any difference. If not, I may snug them down a bit more.
     
  8. junkyardjeff
    Joined: Jul 23, 2005
    Posts: 8,694

    junkyardjeff
    Member

    I never got to doing it.
     
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  9. Adriatic Machine
    Joined: Jan 26, 2008
    Posts: 897

    Adriatic Machine
    ALLIANCE MEMBER

    I adjusted the valve lash down from .019” to .014” and they didn’t get any quieter. All the gaps were in spec or very close before making the change. I wouldn’t say it’s loud I just don’t understand why the .019” spec is so loose.

    I’d like to hear from someone who has more experience with solid lifters and see if there are other engines that have tighter tolerances. Otherwise I’ll likely set them back to spec.
     
    Last edited: Sep 25, 2025
  10. Adriatic Machine
    Joined: Jan 26, 2008
    Posts: 897

    Adriatic Machine
    ALLIANCE MEMBER

  11. FRANK GRELLE
    Joined: Oct 15, 2018
    Posts: 144

    FRANK GRELLE
    Member

    I found this in my Chiltons manual if it is of any help.Thought it was worth a shot.
     

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    Adriatic Machine likes this.
  12. Adriatic Machine
    Joined: Jan 26, 2008
    Posts: 897

    Adriatic Machine
    ALLIANCE MEMBER

    Glad I don’t have those
     

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