Problem: I’ve got a 1931 Model A coupe on a 1932 frame with a 1940 Ford front axle and what looks like a Posies Superglide front spring (I bought the car with the front suspension already built by the previous owner). Engine is a 350. The front suspension is way too stiff and isn’t really articulating very much on bumps or when I jump up and down on the front spreader bar. I’ve either got a bunch of bind in my spring/shackle set up (7 degrees of caster), or my spring is too stiff and I want to soften it up. Question: is there a recommended order to removing leafs from the spring pack? Do I start removing at the top? Do I remove from the middle? Can someone who has removed leafs give me a strategy for softening up this leaf pack in an organized way?
Can you post photos of your current setup? The more photos you post will allow guys to better understand what the problem is.
From my experience Posies springs ride beautifully and with a 350 you've got it well loaded, instead of say an alloy 4 banger for instance. Again, experience has proved that gas shocks are typically too stiff. I'd be looking for bind, testing with the shocks off etc before touching the spring. Saw a new SoCal video on YouTube yesterday, featuring @Pete Eastwood, where he mentioned checking for bind in bushes and reaming if necessary. I'd never heard of that before but it makes sense! Chris
Yeah, I think I watched the same video last night. He removes all but the main leaf to test for bind. I may do that today. I may have to make some kind of angled spacer at the crossmember if excess caster is the culprit.
I dont think that's quite right, but I see it could work. The single leaf thing is that that approximates the fully loaded ride height so that angles can be checked out. I doubt excess caster has anything to do with what's occurring! Binding due to misalignment of spring and axle maybe though. Nothing you have shouldn't require much effort in disassembly or assembly. Everything should go together nicely and articulate easily. Might need a little muscle installing the spring. Compressing shocks to get the bolts in can be a minor challenge too, but not overly difficult, and trouble due to major misalignment is certainly not allowed! Chris Chris
As I said in the other thread I would take a serious look at that dead perch that isn't letting that side of the spring work when you are on rougher roads. Great for real smooth pavement but not great for rougher roads or lots of tar strips.
Were springs painted? Reason I ask is I know someone who painted some with pot 15 and they were solid with no spring.
When I disassemble spring packs I always begin by putting a C clamp on the pack near the center, then remove the centering bolt. I leave the longest springs always, and begin by removing shorter springs. How many I take out the first try depends on how stiff the ride is, and how many leafs are in the pack to begin with. If it's very stiff I'd likely begin with half of the smaller leafs the first try, and see how it rides after that. If you need spacers to keep from running out of U bolt threads I just find flat bar the same width and drill center holes to make up spacer plates.
I tried removing springs and my ride height went all screwy. So, I lubed the whole front end assembly-between leafs and the shackles. And what do ya know-I’ve got a front suspension again. Thank you for all your input, fellas.
I removed the shortest and the second longest on my '36 bobber truck. I put in a 5/8" block on top of the spring pack to replace the springs and maintain the ride height. Gary
Great news, but I'm curious. Posies spring you said? Don't they have the plastic buttons that allow the leaves to glide over eachother? That being the case I'm wondering why the need for lubrication, or what was hanging up on what. Chris
I would like to hear more detail too, but have a feeling that it was some spring bind (dirt and paint) and some of everything else. Even with modern upgrades, these designs require regular maintenance. They are not lubed for life modern ignore me stuff.