Nope. Just bolted them in. How do I synchronize them? Its a solid linkage and i messed with idle screws but haven’t gotten it running good
Looks like they are two different sources (color). Are they the same model carb (should be)? Do they have the same size jets (they should)? What is that size? I don’t mess with Chandler Groves carbs, but many guys here do. Some of them should be able to get you more info. To synchronize, you unhook the linkage and adjust each individually so they have the proper idle. Again, other HAMBers should be able to help you better with that for your carbs. I do know that many guys use an air volume gauge called a Unisyn to check that each carb is adjusted the same. I haven’t, but maybe I should.
Theyre holley 94s. The more dark one i think is an original. The one i got in the rear is a chinese replica. I’ll have to check the jets idk what they have
Set my caster angles… Gonna weld those later but gonna try just bolted until I’m comfortable with them. I set them to around 7.50
Wiring the gauges… I cleaned them up and wired speedo and amp gauge. The temperature gauge will need to be restored or maybe i can find one eventually (cheaper). Will install a new one for now just to monitor temp. Waiting on oil pressure electric sensor. Heres the amp gauge working. Pretty cool!
Is your electrical system gonna be 6 or 12 volts? If 12, what voltage drop gadget are you using for the oil pressure and fuel gauges?
Well… no way back now. Reworking the bones welds since i feel more comfortable with welding and cut the old spring connection thingy off. I noticed some stuff that could be improved in my suspension so took it all off and sent axle to get dropped… Sent it to Anson Axles in georgia. Greg has good reviews but seems like he never answers his phone and takes forever to reply back on instagram. Very weird experience so far. Hope i get my axle back Also redid the carb bases to fix vaccum leaks with the oversized extended shafts from speedway
Since I’m waiting on axle decided to look at engine. Its not good so far… Did a compression test. Cylinder 1 - 110 Cylinder 2 - 100 Cylinder 3 - 90 Cylinder 4 - 100 Cylinder 5 - 100 Cylinder 6 - 105 Cylinder 7 - 60 Cylinder 8 - 30 After dumping oil on #8 spark plug hole it initially jumped to 60 PSI then kept going down. I will do a leak down test next. Ordered the tool, but either looking at rings/valves/crack. If its anything too involved I’m gonna just try to get another engine. Maybe a mercury 8ba
Rings might be stuck, if you can get it running, do a few long heat cycles, MMO in the two cylinders might help to unstick rings, if that’s the issue.
This is how it sounds right now! Its able to run but sounds a bit messed up. https://youtube.com/shorts/c30SFupITXI?si=2VxPyYp_DXjh07M9 Like maybe not running on all cylinders? Idk, I will try MMO if leak test confirms is rings
In the mean time just working on small stuff until i get axle and figure out engine. I filled up the swiss cheese frame and notched it since my spring was hitting. And added some carpet to under seat. $15 at home depot. Just glued it and stapled the back of it. Will probably run some carpet on the floor as well eventually
So my leak test tool arrived. It did not fit the spark plug. So i took the head off. As i started taking it off i notice my bottom 2 studs are a bit loose the ones near bottom #8 you can see rhis pic one stud completely came off as i was taking the nuts off. Here you can see #8 and #7 in that order and this is the bottom of my aluminum head #7 is not doing anything… or is getting coolant all over what do the experts think? Could my problem just be those 2 loose studs. Just use more sealant and thread them better? Do we see rings issue? Valves seem to open OK. Also is the block clean enough to reapply a coat of copper spray(to my gasket) and redo the head install?
i do know it is extra work--but draw filing that deck w/ some diesel for an hour or so after pulling the studs would def improve it!!
The cylinders, particularly 7 in the picture appears to have some rust pitting near the top. The other and remaining seem to show some wear but acceptable. As @patsurf noticed and it stands out the block surface appears to be the issue and will need more than spray copper. Check the entire block deck surface with a straight edge and feeler gauge and report back. Dry filing may fix it bur worse case it may require machining. In that case it might best to bore, re-ring, new pistons, crank checked and have it decked. Costly but we do not know the previous condition of the engine and unfortunately neither do you. Try checking with the straight edge and feeler gauge first so that dry filing may be the easy and less costly way out. It will involve your labor, but it will work too.
If the studs are so loose that they come out of the block, either someone retapped the threads in the block and basically ruined their factory sealing ability. Or the threads were good, but had zero sealant on them. Both situations will require using a good sealant when you reassemble. Personally, I’d wire brush the deck surface, and if no big chunks remain on the surface, clean off the existing gasket and reinstall with copper coat. Then use MMO as suggested to see if any stuck rings get unstuck. If not, you’ll be tearing it all apart again anyway.
I put the engine back together just cleaned it up. Threaded studs with sealant. I havent heat cycled it but compression on #8 went up to 80PSI. So we’ll see. I might still draw file the block but been busy building the fan shroud. I started the engine back and it sounds better. Here’s the shroud build pics. I followed @justGarys thread on it to a T. Seemed to work out OK. Have yet to bolt it down to radiator. Deciding wether to add weatherstripping or not between radiator and shroud. Hope this helps with the overheating…
When I swapped to the aluminum heads my oil filter housing no longer fit. I guess it was only for iron heads. So i found one that would fit the new heads but it had a broken hole. Quick welding fix.. Gonna paint it, do an oil change attach it and focus on getting this thing running!
Looking good! When mounting the radiator, be sure to use rubber pads between the frame and radiator feet. Also use springs on the bolts to allow frame flex without cracking the radiator. I think mine came from Speedway. https://www.speedwaymotors.com/Spee...A8RZxv2CPgnXzlusr21s4KXo8xT_HdKhoCfQcQAvD_BwE
You appeal to listen and lean glasshopper. (End Japanese accent) Your welding skills are much improved. looking very good as far as penetration but may still be a little porous. Pictures do not always tell the exact story but it looks very much improved. Continue after this project on scrap whenever you can. Even if only five or ten minutes. Continue to seek advice from your welder friend. You have come a very long way in a short time and are learning a lot of different skills. Continue to enjoy the hobby.
Hey thanks so much for the kind words! I really do appreciate it! It has been quite the learning curve. Glad to hear I’m not welding little turds anymore haha
Just staying busy with small things for now… set my timing to graph F with black stop bushing Had to disassemble the distributor take out thw shaft and replace the stop bushing. Finished sanding/priming and painting the new oil canister This oil canister came with this T fitting inlet. I assume the oil pressure gauge connects to one side of this? My engine configuration currently connects directly to the block so I don’t know how thats supposed to go but I guess ill google some stuff or if anyone knows for sure let me know!
^^^^They appear to be pipe fittings. If they indeed are you can get a hardware store pipe plug and eliminate the outlet. Or clean up the entire installation and use a single ell.
Save the factory fittings. One of them will have a very small orifice to keep the oil pressure up. You need to use that fitting or you’ll have low pressure to the rest of the engine. The other oil canister you have is for 48 and older, and fits directly on the studs. Your new one is 49 and newer and bolts to the bosses and not studs.
More boring small stuff… i want my axle Greg from Anson axles has stopped responding lol (panics). Hope the dude calls me back soon. Took the red off the shifter lever and painted the tower thingy… i tried to polish it but its all pitted. I just sanded it and added clear coat. Looks pretty cool. Also ordered a new shifter knob
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