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Void filler?

Discussion in 'Off Topic Hot Rods & Customs' started by Hellfish, Sep 29, 2025.

  1. Hellfish
    Joined: Jun 19, 2002
    Posts: 6,802

    Hellfish
    Member

    What's a good product to fill a large gap? Butyl? Caulk? Currently there is some sore of white putty there.

    Background: 60s Jag. These cars came from the factory with a 1/4-1/2" gap between the splash panel and inner fender (brilliant!). Some cars have a rubber flap strip screwed on here, but some don't. I'm probably going to try to do both. A factory reproduction isn't available, or even mentioned in old part catalogs. I'm guessing this gap is there to allow for body flex as it's a unibody, but these cars are notorious for rusting out because water and road gunk makes it past this gap.

    Here's mine. Inner fender on the right.
    upload_2025-9-29_13-18-8.png

    here's one with the rubber strip.
    upload_2025-9-29_13-19-6.png
     
    porkshop likes this.
  2. RodStRace
    Joined: Dec 7, 2007
    Posts: 8,758

    RodStRace
    Member

    Sounds like a fight you can't win!
    Have something attached to inside of fender and it will 'ghost' on the outside, especially if it's in contact or overlaps with the inner shield.
    Have something attached to the shield and it's going to rub against the inside and not seal as well.
    The best would be an accordion of a lightweight, weatherproof material that is solidly attached (but easily removable o_O ).
     
  3. Hellfish
    Joined: Jun 19, 2002
    Posts: 6,802

    Hellfish
    Member

    Hmmm... good points. No one seems (no pun intended) to know what exactly was done at the factory, but whatever they did was wrong anyway. :D So, I need some sort of thick, water and element-proof, non-shrinking adhesive sealant for large gaps. Any suggestions?
    I could layer up butyl caulking strips, but that stuff doesn't keep its shape, so once compressed, it stays compressed.
    Anyone try heavy-bodied seam sealer? It sounds like it might work... but it's $50, so I'd rather not just take a chance on it, or waste half the bottle. There are a lot of SEM and 3M adhesive sealants and they all basically sound the same.
    upload_2025-9-29_14-1-28.png
     
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  4. RodStRace
    Joined: Dec 7, 2007
    Posts: 8,758

    RodStRace
    Member

    porkshop likes this.
  5. Don West
    Joined: May 18, 2014
    Posts: 141

    Don West

    just my 2 pennies but butyl will stay flexible enough to allow a small bit of movement between the 2 panels. ive used it to seal a camper roof and windows with good luck.
     
    klleetrucking likes this.
  6. gene-koning
    Joined: Oct 28, 2016
    Posts: 5,769

    gene-koning
    Member

    The old Dodge trucks used to use fender welting, the modern version is a 3/4" wide flat rubber with a round dead on the outer edge. The flat side fit between the fender and the bed sides, the round bead filled the gaps. The fender welt is sold by the foot, and isn't very expensive.

    With what you have, I'd probably just use the butyl.
     
  7. Dick Stevens
    Joined: Aug 7, 2012
    Posts: 4,122

    Dick Stevens
    Member

    I'm wondering if Flex Seal would work for this?
     
  8. oldolds
    Joined: Oct 18, 2010
    Posts: 3,632

    oldolds
    Member

  9. Hellfish
    Joined: Jun 19, 2002
    Posts: 6,802

    Hellfish
    Member

    I was thinking about something like that pinch weld seal. It looks like there are some that might work.
    Fender welting might be a good solution, too, if I can find a way to stay stuck to the fender with all the conditions behind the wheel
     
  10. mohr hp
    Joined: Nov 18, 2009
    Posts: 1,569

    mohr hp
    Member
    from Georgia

    This is probably not easy to find out there, but if you know any aircraft mechanics, there's a product known as PRC, a structural flexible aviation sealant, that would be perfect for this. Not cheap, of course, and the activator is kinda hazardous, but the stuff lasts forever and stays flexible.
     
  11. Hellfish
    Joined: Jun 19, 2002
    Posts: 6,802

    Hellfish
    Member

    This? There's some variations that are 4x as much, but this is only $27.50. You wouldn't be looking at it if you didn't know what it is, so they don't provide any details. :D
    upload_2025-10-1_9-13-6.png
    https://directaircraftparts.com/par...xOFVu38C3zbdmCT-Njc-OkbC6wue_jvIaAnihEALw_wcB
     
  12. mohr hp
    Joined: Nov 18, 2009
    Posts: 1,569

    mohr hp
    Member
    from Georgia

    Yep, that's it. Follow the mixing instructions carefully, it cures with its activator only. It's very thick and hard to mix. That's B2, which has a workable life of 2 hours, it's available in all different time windows and types. B2 is very common. This stuff is tough as nails, and remains pliable.
     
    SS327 likes this.
  13. ekimneirbo
    Joined: Apr 29, 2017
    Posts: 5,352

    ekimneirbo
    Member
    from Brooks Ky

    I'd get rid of the white stuff.........paint the area whatever color you want it to be .......and then get some silicone caulking of a similar color (black ?) and try to make a nice bead. Don't use your finger to spread it, make a nice (wide) bead and leave it alone.
     
  14. X-cpe
    Joined: Mar 9, 2018
    Posts: 2,261

    X-cpe

    Maybe hit the weatherstrip section at the hardware/big box store and see if there is something there that would work.
     
    TrailerTrashToo likes this.

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