I have never seen an R10 with a slip yoke. K need to check the stock shaft from my son's '54 wagon. I don't remember. The "slip" joint on my '68 C20 flat bed is mostly just a rubber bushing/connector at the front of the shaft. There isn't a lot of movement. Srver 4x4s have a slip joint in the front shaft. Great progress by the way!
@Six Ball surprising how little info I’m finding on the yokes. For as many vehicles that used these over drives I can’t find much talk about that specific bit. I was really curious if I could remove the bolt on yoke and swap a slip yoke in. That would simplify a fair amount. maybe I just havnt figured out the right search words or “stude speak”
I 'll try to do some looking tomorrow. I have both piles of treasure and old parts books. I also have a guy working on my roof and a guy using my computer to take a DUI cl***. The guy on the roof knows what he is doing.
lol well at least there’s one of you that does. I sifted through a lot of stuff this afternoon and found a video of someone taking a bolt on yoke off a ramble with this trans/over drive and the end of the shaft is threaded. So the yoke is not held on with a bolt into the center of the shaft like a th400 some times has. So I think you’d need to get the exactly same trans, over drive and other parts combo except with a slip yoke and then swap that shaft into your existing trans/overdrive set up. Im thinking for trans parts, a slip yoke, u joints and a drive shaft that $280 for a slip shaft with joints sounds like a much better deal. Though I am thinking that they probably don’t want you installing them at their full extended length so the one I found in the previous post is going to be to short. I’ll have to sort through a driveshaft website or something and find a donor that’s longer that I can cut down. Lord forbid we ever take the easy route lol
Tim, I have an OD trans from an early 60's Lark V8 that has a yoke for a driveshaft (attachments). It looks to me like your trans could be from a C/K body Stude that used a 2 piece driveshaft or a truck as you said.
Yeah best I can figure this car engine was rebuilt and then put in a truck. And then the drivetrain was pulled and bought at auction by the friend I got it from.
There's an easy route? Tim in my last post I was just talking about the other two guys but I understand why you put me in the group, and you are right.
Before I moved to Texas, I needed a custom shaft made to mate up to a motorhome 727 that doesn't have a slip yoke. I took the measurements of everything with pictures to Fast Shafts in Des Moines and they had one done in a few days with the slip shaft as you showed before. It was around $325 if memory serves me, but that was about 20 years ago.
As much as I like the idea of finding an existing shaft that will work or one I can cut down I think having one made is probably the best use of time/ money. found this on eBay and looks to be the ticket. Now I just need $300 and an eBay account. I’m not quite ready yet anyhow but it’s good to have it figured out before I’m ready.
Yeah there’s a lot of them that take a slip yoke. In my nosing around I’m suprised at how many variations of even the same trans and over drive unit there are. Nash Healy - I believe- roadsters got them for maybe two years and they came with an end that was for torque tube!
AFAIK, Stude R-10 OD(short case tailshaft, whether used behind a 6 or v8) used bolt-on u-joint w/a slip-joint on the 'shaft, R-11 OD(long-case tailshaft) used slip-yoke for the output. If you do go the used route, know that apparently there is some unwritten "law" that forbids greasing the slip-joints. Most every slip-joint I've worked with in the past(mostly non-stude, & 4x4, but still...), the splines were worn to the point that swapping slip-parts didn't work. Unless filled/packed w/grease, which lasted for all of ~10 seconds. If there is any movement other than forward n back, suspect that joint to be bad. FWIW. The ones for one of my IH 4x4s got a bit expensive, & that just was a stocker set-up. Marcus...
Good to know Marcus. I’ve seen a few in my googling around that have grease zerks on them, and some mention having seals, I ***ume in an attempt to keep the grease inside.
I had a driveshaft made for the Chevy when I built it. I want to say the place was called Empire Driveline? Kind of a backyard shop in Kansas City. That was 15 years or so ago though...
Yeah I’ve seen the name pop up Going to start working on the rear springs tomorrow. Using my Sunday internet browsing to look at battery mounting spots. I had intended under the p***enger side floor but between exhaust, ladder bars, and saddle tanks it’s really gonna be a squeeze. See a lot of guys put them on the firewall but I don’t love that idea for a few reasons.
So wait would early flathead 3 speed with od transmission parts help? I actually have access to a couple
@The Chevy Pope i wouldn’t mind having them around. They mostly used r10’s which is exactly what I have. Most r10 guts seem to interchange.
Yes, The R10 innards are mostly the same. The cases vary greatly and there are several different kick down switches. Different switches and alternate wiring are options. Solenoids can be repaired, never throw them away.
If there is anything a hotrod guy knows how to do it’s keep and fix getting ready to cut a mount plate for the drivers side rear spring. I think I’ve got it mostly figured out. Getting harder and harder to crawl in and out of this thing as we add stuff but I don’t want to pull the body yet. came up with an idea for lower shock mounts as well since my original idea doesn’t have room to work
Wow @Tim, ground ups are no cakewalk, that's for sure. Your original configuration was not really straightforward either but it's great to have the support from the members here and the others close to home to help round out the numbers and connect the dots.
I got here because this thing was going to run a 153 Chevy 4 banger. I stuck around because it is a cool build and I really like Stude V8s. If you had stuck to the 153 it would probably be on the road and just a little less cool than the Studebaker version.
Alright another day slowly marching forward but I got out there. Got the boxing plates drilled and the spring mounts mocked up. Got the spring mount brackets for the axle about 80% done. Just a little more t*******, grinding, fitting and I’ll have them tacked together. been messing with my new band saw set up because a cut off wheel in this thick stuff is a joke. Think I need to switch to a finer tooth blade but in general so far so good. My original plan of shackle mounted lower shock mounts is not going to work. There just isn’t room. But I think this latest idea will work. I’m On idea 4 or 5 for lower shock mounts lol. The ladder bars, spring mounts, shock mounts, pan hard bar all want to be in about a 5” space. Being careful to make sure nothing will hit each other and you can get hardware out of each thing with out taking something else apart to get to it. Some times it’s unavoidable but most the time I think there is a way. anyhow, still feeling good about progress. Hopefully have the springs and ladder bars all sorted and tacked by the end of this coming weekend. Then I need to find some longer bolts for the pan hard bar brackets and I’ll put that in place, shocks last and then I’ll move to the front end. Just a few things to ****on up there. “Should” be a quicker reward for work hopefully. Been thinking of some bump stop options as well. I think in the back I can screw some pointed rubber stops into the rear cross member channel. Up front I’m not really sure where they’d even go. The front rails are getting a little notch for the spring the travel in so it doesn’t bottom out. Maybe I’ll just add a 1/4” thick chunk of rubber in the top of the notch to soften the blow a little? Shocking how many hot rods are going down the road with the front spring bottomed out on the frame rail. Checked a lot of cars at a show years ago and the majority had the spring touching the frame rail with the car parked and no one in it! I’ll post pix when everything’s in place right now it’s just a blur of clamps, shims and stands.
The Jalopy Journal
