Hot Rods Lab Metal Uses...

I've been told that the hi temp version can be used when powder coating. This involves an electric current as far as I know.

So if that is true would this product work with plating as well?

 

JB weld works almost as well at a fraction of the price for repairs before powder coating. Neither one is suitable for standard plating processes. Both are forms of epoxy and the main issue is their coefficient of expansion doesn't match the items you coat when applying cure heat. The thicker the 'filler', the worse it gets and the seams can show.

 

Powder coating uses static electricity. You can powder coat over powder coat so conductivity is not an issue

Plating is different. You can electroplate non conducting materials if you vapour coat in copper, but its a specialised process.

 

Thanks for the education guys! The reason I was asking is that I have some REALLY hard to find pot metal pieces that have some punky edges. Though small I like to get them back to 100%.

 

The repair method for pitting and other small flaws in non-ferrous metal is to strip off the existing plating, then carefully grind all corrosion out of the parent metal. Failure to get it all will result in them 'popping' when attempting to replate. Ferrous metal offers more options such as welding or brazing for repair and can proceed directly to the standard process but still needs to be stripped/cleaned to bare good metal. Otherwise, then apply the copper base coat and fill all the flaws with solder. File/sand back to the right contours, then back to the copper bath and from there the regular process to finish.

To ensure that you get all of the corrosion after stripping non-ferrous metal, baking the part at 300+ degrees for 30-40 minutes will usually 'boil' out any remaining corrosion. Repeat if unsure.

 

Or use one of he magic alloy solders/brazes that can repair zinc alloys (pot metal)

 

I take it that "lab metal" is an epoxy glue? Most epoxies will soften at around 90 degrees C. How about drilling out the pits, refinishing the surface (bondo, etc), then trying one of those "spray on chrome" jobs? Anyone had any luck with this stuff?

 

Glass beading might be a good way to clean out the decay.