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Technical New brake hoses don’t flow.

Discussion in 'The Hokey Ass Message Board' started by Andy, Oct 8, 2025 at 1:16 PM.

  1. Andy
    Joined: Nov 17, 2002
    Posts: 5,379

    Andy
    Member

    Trying to replace a brake hose. I have bought two brand new ones and I can’t blow thru either one.This can’t be right? I did an internet search and one spot said that is right.
    Comments?
     
    tractorguy likes this.
  2. FrozenMerc
    Joined: Sep 4, 2009
    Posts: 3,381

    FrozenMerc
    Member

    Do the hoses have some sort of pressure or flow controlling valve built into them?
     
    tractorguy likes this.
  3. Andy
    Joined: Nov 17, 2002
    Posts: 5,379

    Andy
    Member

    No. Just hose and fittings to attach to tubing. It is a rear brake hose.
     
  4. gary macdonald
    Joined: Jan 18, 2021
    Posts: 444

    gary macdonald
    Member

    Are you using compressed air ? Remember brake pressure is in the hundreds of lbs, but you should see daylight through them when laid in a piece of angle iron .
     
    tractorguy likes this.
  5. RodStRace
    Joined: Dec 7, 2007
    Posts: 8,386

    RodStRace
    Member

    Andy, a hose should allow flow in both directions. You know that.
    You didn't provide a part number, application, or who sold it.
    We can guess any number of reasons for the issue, but it comes down to a brake hose that you can't freely blow thru in both directions isn't right. If it has some sort of residual pressure valve that may explain it, but without more info we are not able to advise.
     
    19Eddy30 likes this.
  6. Andy
    Joined: Nov 17, 2002
    Posts: 5,379

    Andy
    Member

    The app is a 99 GMC Sierra 1500 with the 5.3 engine. It is a rear brake hose. One came from O’Rielly’s and one from AutoZone. I have anther I am going to pick up from NAPA. The O’Rielly part number is BH381272. Neither one will flow. This for my roadster.
     
    RodStRace likes this.
  7. RodStRace
    Joined: Dec 7, 2007
    Posts: 8,386

    RodStRace
    Member

    Thanks, sorry if that came off as unhelpful.
    The horse's mouth.
    https://www.raybestos.com/brake-hydraulic-hose-bh381272.html
    Certainly doesn't indicate any reason to have a standoff of any sort. I know it's fashionable to pick on the country of origin, but I have a feeling the brass T end wasn't machined fully.
    Could you run a thin wire from the straight end thru and check for it to extend into the T end? Might do this at the store when returning.

    I followed a trail to OE numbers and that sure is popular and has been superseded MANY times.
    http://oemcats.com/oem-parts/21999531.html


    [​IMG]
     
    Last edited: Oct 8, 2025 at 1:59 PM
  8. 19Eddy30
    Joined: Mar 27, 2011
    Posts: 3,748

    19Eddy30
    Member
    from VA

    Over crimped ? Miss machined .
    Slide a coat hanger threw & see .
    Also Some need scan tool (99abs)to bleed ,
    & some you can out smart to bleed with out scan tool ..
    Should be able to blow air threw hose when in Hand .
     
    RodStRace likes this.
  9. RodStRace
    Joined: Dec 7, 2007
    Posts: 8,386

    RodStRace
    Member

    Was editing when Eddy replied. Scruffy mechanics think the same! :D
     
    19Eddy30 likes this.
  10. Andy
    Joined: Nov 17, 2002
    Posts: 5,379

    Andy
    Member

    Thanks for the suggestions!
    I did get a length of welding rod and tried to shove it thru. It stoppedy at the T fitting crimp. I jammed it in a few more times and it ended up going thru. I can see the wire thru the T ports! It flows fine. I did not see anything come out. I am good to go. I just need to return all the extra hoses.
     
  11. Kerrynzl
    Joined: Jun 20, 2010
    Posts: 3,593

    Kerrynzl
    Member

    They have "flap" in the hoses. It is reasonably common.
    They are a cheap but vital component, don't even risk the cleaning process
    Send them back and get new ones

    They don't see 100's of lbs on return. If you could get fluid down them, the brakes would stay locked on
     
  12. 19Eddy30
    Joined: Mar 27, 2011
    Posts: 3,748

    19Eddy30
    Member
    from VA

    I was working on One few days ago,
    Abs Light on for year or so , My self could care less about Abs working ,
    On Gm hard lines rusting out @ plastic clips , after fixing hard line & swapping the OEM metric fitting to new 1/4 hard line went to Bleed brakes with scan tool , would not allow because code , tried few other things , So I turned power Key off was able to bleed brakes old fashion way ,
    Worked for me , & honestly on this Gm brakes where better pedal feel not spongy like since purchased new.
    255 thou miles
     
    tractorguy likes this.
  13. mike in tucson
    Joined: Aug 11, 2005
    Posts: 539

    mike in tucson
    Member
    from Tucson

    I wonder if the manufacturer tested the assembly for leaks and whatever the test fluid was had solidified at the fitting and blocked the low pressure flow? Seems odd that more than one hose was blocked without tracing the problem back to the factory. Maybe a bad week at the Dung Ho Brake Hose Factory?
     
    Happydaze likes this.
  14. DDDenny
    Joined: Feb 6, 2015
    Posts: 22,087

    DDDenny
    Member
    from oregon

    Odd!
    Years ago I did have a brand new GM LT1 pushrod that had an inserted tip that did not get drilled through fully.
     
  15. gary macdonald
    Joined: Jan 18, 2021
    Posts: 444

    gary macdonald
    Member

    Who said return pressure? Not me .
     
  16. Kerrynzl
    Joined: Jun 20, 2010
    Posts: 3,593

    Kerrynzl
    Member

    You can argue all you want to save face and win the internet argument, but I was talking about common sense safety here [somebody else's]
    That being said....... I'm done with responding to brake clusterfuck threads [Most accidents from ignorance / stupidity won't happen on my backyard ]

    You were referring to pressure in the brake hose.
    But they flow both directions.
    If the hose needs more than 15 psi to get flow through it , it has a blockage.

    A lot of cheap manufacturers only pressure test them ,usually incorrectly by blocking one end and pressurizing the other end [a blockage will show up as a pass because it holds pressure]
    The correct method is to pressure test with a gauge at each end [you block flow at one end and pressurize the other, then reverse the process]
    But this is usually done by custom hose manufacturers [not outsourced manufacturers]
     
    Hellpig, Kiwi 4d and 19Eddy30 like this.
  17. RodStRace
    Joined: Dec 7, 2007
    Posts: 8,386

    RodStRace
    Member

    Andy, I've never shook your hand, but you are a HAMBer and that's good enough.
    Please make sure any obstruction that was in there is gone. You don't want it to take a set out there on the road.
    If that's huffin' on it like the Harmonica player in J.Geils (yes, I know his name) or runnin' a speedo cable up and down a few times, make sure it wasn't just moved aside.
     
    williebill likes this.
  18. gary macdonald
    Joined: Jan 18, 2021
    Posts: 444

    gary macdonald
    Member

    Ah, now I understand and stand corrected. You are correct in that the fluid must return .
    I wasn’t thinking and sorry for my post
     
  19. gary macdonald
    Joined: Jan 18, 2021
    Posts: 444

    gary macdonald
    Member

    Please read above post . I forgot to add the quotes to it . My apologies, I now understand you comment.
    Gary
     
  20. flatheadpete
    Joined: Oct 29, 2003
    Posts: 10,642

    flatheadpete
    Member
    from Burton, MI

    If anyone ever needs help with late-model GM parts info...hit me up! Best damn GM parts guy around! I'll do what I can!
     
  21. RodStRace
    Joined: Dec 7, 2007
    Posts: 8,386

    RodStRace
    Member

    @flatheadpete What a gracious offer! If you are serious and can handle the deluge, you might put it in your signature for those that didn't see it here.

    @gary macdonald it takes strength to admit when you are wrong. Kudos.
     
    TagMan, flatheadpete and Sharpone like this.

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