Customs 1957 SBC to 39 Ford Trans pilot bushing Question

I'm hoping some expert on here can help me out, I'm mating a 1957 SBC 283 onto a 39 Ford Trans. The crank I have ont the 283 is for an automatic trans so the pilot bushinging hole is not machined. I ordered the Speedway Bushing and had it machined down to the right hole by a good friend of mine. I installed the bushing with no issues but I dont know if I pressed it in to far? I know on all other manuals it says to leave it flush to the crank wall. I looked at Speedway "Installation" but all it shows is a part dimensional drawing. When I mate the trans, The shaft seems to barely catch the pilot bearing. I searched here and on google and no luck on pilot bearing Installs. can some one please help. I've also attached some pics. Thanks in advance.

 

Lakewood makes a bushing that indexes in the larger hole - it is really just a flathead bushing with a sleeve installed on it - what you did looks ok to me - how far does the input shaft go? On my shoebox (283 mated to stock trans) I'm in about 1/8" past the chamfer of the input shaft - not as much as I wanted, but has been working fine - that bore on the end of the crank looks properly machined to me - are you saying its undersized even for a stock sbc bushing?

 

First off, thanks for responding, very much appreciated. I'm not sure how far in it goes but it feels like it just barely gets on the bushing, I was working on it last night I'll do the math work once I get home. Yea it wasent the best machine work but it wasn't as bad as it looks. No, what I meant was, it was undersized compared to a manual trans hole, If that makes sense. You did answer my question though, "how far in does the shaft have to go in the bushing".

 

You’ll need an adapter. Hehe.

 

Chryslerfan55
Any pics of this adapter?!

 

I’ve used the same bushing on my 235 crank.
I always have to ream to size after install.
Can’t help on depth as mine has a Chevy T5.

 

I would have a longer pilot bushing made using the large hole in the crank. Have the bushing made to stick out of the crank the distance you need to get the trans shaft all the way into the pilot bearing.

 

Also be careful to not use a bushing machined from solid bronze barstock ..... I went through this ~50 years ago when I did a gearbox conversion.
Grabbed a piece of solid phosphor bronze bar off the rack at work and machined it accordingly. Installed it, used some grease lube and it performed great for about a month and then it became harder to engage and shift gears. Then, one of my smarter toolroom colleagues reminded me that OEM bushes are made from sintered bronze material and that they hold their lube for a "lifetime".
Consequently, I found some sintered bronze material, re-made the bush, boiled it some engine oil before installation, and WOLLAH, problem solved.
Alternatively, some pilot shaft diameters have a "Deep Groove Ball Bearing" (METRIC) diameter and sometimes their OD match the flywheel or crankshaft bore too. If their ID do suit the pilot shaft but not the OD, I've then machined a steel adapter sleeve to suit.
Good luck.

 

In 1957, there where 2 automatic transmissions. Powerglide and Turboglide. They each had different crankshafts, mainly for the torque converters. Consequently, the pilot bearings offered are different ODs. I believe that there was one for manual transmissions as well. Make sure you get the correct one.

 

Thank you all for the replies. I think I'm going to have to go with BJR's suggestion. Right now, the trans shaft only engages on the bushing about 0.07", a little over a 1/16". If I can get 1/8" past the chamfer on the trans shaft, like ididntdoit1960 suggested. I should be good.

 

I would go further than 1/8" if you are going to make a bushing. Why not make it full length?

 

Yea, you guys are right at this point just make it the full length. Again thank you guys very much, appreciate the response.

 

Have you tried the speed shops? many,many years ago I installed a 283 into a 48 ford trans and got what I needed from Honest Charlies in Tenn!

 

Do you have any I can maybe get their number. I looked at Honest Charlie, but I don't see any parts for sale.

 

I machined mine off the Speedway instructions as well. Mine sits about flush with the flywheel.

When I bolted my transmission up to check that I had full engagement of the pilot bushing. Also make sure your crank end play stays the same before and after the transmission is installed
. That way you can be sure the input shaft is not loading up the crank thrust bearings

 

It appears that your pilot shaft diameter is ~0.670" (17mm) so as I mentioned above, assorted "Deep Groove" ball bearing suits this shaft diameter (6003, 6203, 6303, 6403) ..... always use double sealed bearings (LLU).
https://www.ntnglobal.com/en/products/catalog/pdf/2203E_b02.pdf
I'm unaware of your crankshaft/flywheel spigot diameter but the above bearings have OD's of 35mm(1.378"), 40mm(1.575"), 47mm(1.850"), 62mm(2.441"). These diameters could be a straight fit-up otherwise a steel adapter sleeve could be made to suit. This method provides you with readily available commercial type ball bearing replacements.
This method also alleviates the other risk of the aftermarket bushes being made from inappropriate bronze or even brass ...... we all know where these type parts are being made these days.

 

@31 Coupe I’m not a fan of chinesium parts either but honestly, we can’t blame them if a U.S., Australian or any business writes specs for a material instead of oil impregnated sintered metal. The same can be said about anything they manufacture, they are producing what their customer wants.

 

Fair enough ..... but I spent the last 55 years of my career working in Australian manufacturing industries and I've watched nearly every one of them disappear or go offshore.
Like the USA, Australia and most other Western society countries it's been difficult to be industrially competitive in the current environment.

 

That's the one I ordered and had machined to fit my crank