Featured Projects JUNIORS- 1931 Av8 Build.

I used the uprights as the came but had to trim an inch off the bottom to fit ontop of the new subrails.
Made some simple bottoms that ill be able to bolt in. I also hate having to get behind these areas to nut and bolt, so used nutserts since you cant see any of it once its together.

 

I bought a curved panel and the uprights long time ago cause i thought they were bolt in but i have now learned that once you change the subrails nothing stock fits, makes sense obviously but i wasnt thinking that when i started getting stuff.
The uprights for the hinges were sold to me as 28-31 fitment, but i now know there is different ones. But its what i got so its what i used.

The curved panel was way to much work to modify to fit, i should have just made one from scratch but didnt want to waste the money i spent on it.

It was cut in the middle to correct the width, and had to make new side flanges and re curve the panel to fit into my subrails.

 

Finished Hinge mounts, triangle sides, and curved panel.

Everything has been rusting so quick even with not handling with bare hands, so i have started etching the bare metal once im finished with the area.

 

Rumble lid, back on with hinges and stops in action.

 

one thing to mention, I dont know about original hardware, cause my body came with nothing for the rumble lid it was all cut out/ missing, but every hole is so oversize on the aftermarket parts.
I have tried to only buy the "ford licensed" replacement parts if original have not been sourced but it hasnt seemed to mean much.

The pivot bolt for the hinges was so oversize on the aftermarket brackets you could move the lid back in forth. To correct it i drill out the center hole to 3/4" and machined a reduced to fit the pivot bolts.

Much more precise fit and lid opens and closes without wobbling around.

 

That large hole at the hinge center is for aligning. Allows the new hinges used on the bent up bodies to work with the lid. Pretty sure the originals were the same too.

 

Thanks, is this in reference to the uprights on the body or the zinc plated bracket bolted to them that hold the hinges themselves?

What I made was for the pivot bolts themselves and fixed the play in the hinges

 

Im Diggin IT!!!!!! A close up of that ole Panhead wont hurt my eyeballs either while ya taking shots!!!! Gone to get my POPCORN!!!!!!!

 

Im enjoying the FABRICATION skills that i DO NOT possess!!!!! Please continue!!!!

 

Just found your build, in my humble opinion your work is extremely impressive. My build will never be to your level, but I can sure study what you are doing and learn from you. Thanks for sharing these great photos, they are very helpful!

 

knock it off your making us all look bad! i like your bump stops on your deck lid i wish i had thought of that. i kept my rumble too - kind of regret it now.
beautiful work mate.

 

The hinge pivot bolts themselves. IIRC there is usually a couple large square washers included for each side to cover the big hole.

 

Got it! Got those in there too.

 

you got it!
it’s changed a lot since it was in the background of that photo. This is how my pan sits right now

In Yellowstone watching the buffalo on a trip this summer.


This is my 69 sitting in from of the car when I first chucked the body on.

 

Thank you! Appreciate you saying that. I study and learn from others on here as well. I’m not too knowledgeable on fitment and features of early ford stuff so this forum has helped a ton so far these past few years.

 

Will do!

 

Thank you!
I bought a stock bump kit but realized it wouldn’t work with my modified subs/floor. Again, obvious now but didn’t think at the time.

I plan on making some modified rumble seats so I can try* and have a little storage space and the rumble seats

 

your work and robert at rpc --look like 2 people who def rise to the challenge!

 

I’m thinking ahead and could use some help on the mechanical fan set up. I mocked up a 31 shell as a reference.

I have a couple Gens, all threaded armature style with sealed bearings in the front plate/mount. I have two thread on pulleys, one cast and one stamped/machined. I have a 4 blade fan.
Pictures below.

I want to run the fan off the gen and single belt. I believe I’m in an okay space on the rad and not to high. If I am correct me please.
I also have another fan hub that’s keyed and much thicker which I got to maybe cut up.

I can make any combo of parts work a little machining/ welding (if the combo doesn’t exist already I can fit) so my question is, what is the best mechanical fan I should use? Should I get a 6 blade or use the 4 I have already?

thank you in advance for anyones input!

 

The four blade fan will cool just fine. Not sure what the deal is with your first picture and the spacers? I used a fan off a 38 p.u. The extension on it is longer than the fan you have, so I was able to cut it to the length that I needed, machined a sleeve and welded it together. The fan hub is a cut down generator but it shows how it fits. that's the only picture I could find.

 

Great progress! You’ve got MAD fab skills!

On my 29 with an 8BA I’m running the gen in the stock location and the fan hits the rad hoses and the radiator so I’m going to cut down the fan blades. I can send pics if you need them.

 

Thanks!

oh, those are just magnets holding it so I could take a picture of the location.
I would prefer to use part that I already have then have to buy more, plus I like the look of the 4 blade.

it was just a thought since I was planning on making a hub work with what I had that maybe I should pick the fan that’s going to move the most air.

 

Thank you!

I think my clearance will be fine, how it’s pictured the top of my blades would be about an inch below the top tank

 

As far as positioning, is there any issue being in the upper half of the rad compared to center as long as I’m below the top tank?

I just like the look of a gen mounted fan and single belt, but ultimately I want the best set up cause I’ll be sitting at a lot of damn stop lights here.

 

Mine is a 40 front cover/mount, a 50-60's housing, 60's rear cover, 60's 12v armature and field coils, a mid 30's fan, homemade spacer (didn't have a longer 32 fan at the time), and a really hard to find pulley.

I started with a 38 pulley and bored it out to fit the bigger shaft of the late 12v armature, and counterbored a bit for the lock washer and nut. It lasted a couple thousand miles, then cracked the backside of the middle out because there isn't enough meat after the bore out. I had an aftermarket pulley from way back when for such a conversion, but it was aluminum. Was going to use it, but discovered a huge, oversized Ford generator at a swap meet with a cast iron pulley that looked like what I needed. Took it all apart and found it was perfect. Been on there ever since. But I've got no idea what the original application was and haven't seen any others since.

If you have access to a mill and lathe, I'd recommend making a new steel pulley just like the 38 style, but with a bit more heft around the center bore. You seem like the type of guy that would enjoy whittling something like that out.

I've been told that the higher you can position the fan, the better.

 

Great info thank you!

Yeah I would like to just machine my own with the parts I have. I’ll stick with the 4 blade and my original plan.

thanks everyone for the input

 

Using a gennie mount fan in my AV8 coupe. There are different length hubs for the four blade fans. Shoehorned the best fit one in place and the blades are approx. 3/4" from the fins on the modified-to-fit '35 sedan radiator. Works perfectly for my 59AB flatty. I'm using the Subaru Justy thermostats because it ran so cool I couldn't get it to operating temp without them. Flatmotor runs cool even in 90+ degree heat.
Your fab skills are awesome. Attention to detail is great. Keep it up.
Andy

 

Chiro, tell us about those thermostats.