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Projects Building My First Roadster in San Francisco

Discussion in 'Traditional Hot Rods' started by J.Ukrop, Sep 7, 2020.

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  1. J.Ukrop
    Joined: Nov 10, 2008
    Posts: 3,586

    J.Ukrop
    SUPER MODERATOR
    Staff Member

    Feeling empowered by my coil wire experience, I spent today's bus ride to and from work shopping for the rest of my wiring. By November 1, I'll have a wide range of 12, 14, and 16-gauge wire to chose from, along with my heavy-duty battery cables that I already installed and surplus materials from Version 1.0.
    6P1A0233.jpg
    I spend most of my night buying a MCM coffee table in Berkeley, but I did manage to get the ignition coil wiring sorted out. My phone died before I could take a picture, so here's another snapshot from the driveway.

    That's all for tonight. Thanks for sticking with me!
     
  2. J.Ukrop
    Joined: Nov 10, 2008
    Posts: 3,586

    J.Ukrop
    SUPER MODERATOR
    Staff Member

    Oh, and one more thing: does anyone have a rec for a speedometer cable? I accidentally ordered the wrong one. I need one that connects an early Ford turtle to a 1962 SW 160mph speedometer. Any help is greatly appreciated!
     
  3. Tim
    Joined: Mar 2, 2001
    Posts: 19,985

    Tim
    Member
    from KCMO

    Any idea what thread sizes each of those are?
     
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  4. wheeltramp brian
    Joined: Jun 11, 2010
    Posts: 3,323

    wheeltramp brian
    Member

    The cable ends should be regular GM sizes and I think a ca3002? cable would work, unless the speedometer needs the male thread on that side of the cable. They are pretty cheap at the local parts stores. I'll check the part numbers when I get to work in a little while.
     
  5. 51504bat
    Joined: May 22, 2010
    Posts: 5,573

    51504bat
    ALLIANCE MEMBER

    Check with Rusty @e1956v at Speedometer Service. He will handle the cable issue. Plus he is an Alliance Vendor. And regarding the wire, make sure it's all copper not aluminum clad copper. Don't ask me how I know.
    Speedometer, Generator And Alternator Repair In Colorado Springs

    Edit: make that copper clad aluminum not aluminum clad copper. Brain fart before the morning coffee.:cool:
     
    Last edited: Oct 22, 2025 at 11:42 AM
    RMcCulley, Outback, J.Ukrop and 4 others like this.
  6. e1956v
    Joined: Sep 29, 2009
    Posts: 2,574

    e1956v
    Alliance Vendor

    I can definitely get you going on that cable, I'd be happy to be a part of your build Joey. Just need an overall length.
    Thanks for the mention as always @51504bat
     
  7. J.Ukrop
    Joined: Nov 10, 2008
    Posts: 3,586

    J.Ukrop
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    Thank you guys! @e1956v, I'll get you dimensions this weekend. Love the look of your old building. o.jpg
    (I lifted this shot from Yelp! but too good not to share.)
     
  8. J.Ukrop
    Joined: Nov 10, 2008
    Posts: 3,586

    J.Ukrop
    SUPER MODERATOR
    Staff Member

    IMG_3050.jpg
    Good mail day. The Raybestos master cylinder seems substantially better than the one I have in the car now. Once I get my Raybestos wheel cylinder, I'll start planning my overhaul. All copper washers will be annealed—I'm going to give this system a fighting chance.

    When I went to set these parts in the garage for the picture, I noticed my right front wheel cylinder leaking worse than ever from the copper washer area. I'm thinking the RF may have to come apart too. We'll see.
     
  9. Tim
    Joined: Mar 2, 2001
    Posts: 19,985

    Tim
    Member
    from KCMO

    Shit hard to like that.

    where did your existing cylinders come from? I’d be curious to see where they are leaking from once you pull the hub/drum and can see what’s happening
     
  10. Outback
    Joined: Mar 4, 2005
    Posts: 3,323

    Outback
    ALLIANCE MEMBER
    from NE Vic

    Dang man, good on you for pushing on, I imagine “mech brakes don’t leak” has run though your head lately!
     
    Last edited: Oct 25, 2025 at 7:32 PM
    winduptoy and J.Ukrop like this.
  11. Brand new washers don’t need annealing, only already crushed ones do so they soften back up after being work hardened. I am surprised that the brakes are giving you so much trouble, you have done everything meticulously. I wonder if when putting the return spring on that the shoe web is cutting into the dust boot or forcing the piston seal to get damaged some how. The spring is heavy but care must be taken when clipping it in place
     
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