Hello Hambers , ANYONE know the length of the Fuel pump actuator rod ( push rod) on a 010 sbc block? Using Edelbrock 1721 mech fuel pump. ALSO Any good ways to tell if SBC fuel cam lobe wiped ? NEW to me , can put rod in & bar engine over but not sure on travel in/out of rod ? Easy Pervs , hold your tongues , this is strictly mechanical. Lol HAVE A GREAT ONE HAMBERS & THANKS FIR ANY HELP !
Lots of them here, it looks like .50" diameter and 5.75" length is standard. https://www.summitracing.com/search/part-type/fuel-pump-pushrods/make/chevrolet/engine-size/5-7l-350
THANKS , BUT **** Ai !! I have ask questions & it gave answers both ways to covervits *** . Ai does NOT have common sense & will ALWAYS GIVE YOU AN ANSWER RIGHT or WRONG imo . But THANKS ! That is the answer i am getting with occ***ional ( depends on set up) ? My push rod has a edge bur with what looks like bronze center & measurs 5x 5 5/8" exactly ( with bur) . Comp cams know to have bronze end break off & possible wip cam ( thinking im headed in that direction).YIKES
Thanks Pprather ,im guessing thats the spec , so im 1/8" short on my fuel rod , makes me wonder WHYYYYYYY!!??? LOL
You mention seeing bronze in the center, sure sounds like the 1/8” bronze face of the rod got wiped out. Are you running a steel roller cam? If not forget the bronze tipped hollow push rod and get a standard steel rod. But if your cam is steel there may not be a good answer to your problem.
If I’m not mistaken, if it’s a fuel injected camshaft, it will not have a lobe for the fuel pump. I.e. later model engine.
SO THANKS FOR THE REPLUES I ITS A NA 355 / 700R4 , 010 350 BLOCK 4BOLT CLEANED TO 355 . E-STREET ALUM HEADS / COMP 292 CAM ( I BELIEVE) . HAD LOPEY IDLE . EDELBROCK 1721 MECH FUEL PUMP , EDELBROCK DUAL PLANE WITH QUICKFUEL 680SS CARB .JUST TICKED & DIED . CRANKING DRAINED FUEL BOWLS . PUTTING FUEL PUMP BACK ON WITH CLEANED UP ROD , FUEL FROM A JUG TO ELIMINATE TANK/ LINES. IF 5.75" IS TRUE IM MISDING 1/8" , WONDER IF THAT WOULD AFFECT IT MUCH . I DONT KNOW LEVER STROKE LENGTH WHEN IT RUNS . NEW TERRITORY , I WILL KEEP YA UPDATED BROTHERS ! THANK YOU !
Do you have to push the pump against the plate on the block to bolt it up? Or does it fit flush easily?
When it failed , the pump mount bolts were loose. I used blue loc***e for install , but im putting back together , with fuel pump drawing fuel from bucketvto eliminate tank Buy Sunoco hi test 94 owned by idians ( very nice people) . We will c with process of eliminationi guess . Rod is shorter by1/8"th 8. This wr know . Rubbery m*** & debris i filter puzzing ,but could lead to ROOT cause..
If I have an old cam around here I'll measure the FP lobe and let you know the travel, you can measure movement of pump rod to see if there is any wear to the lobe. But I'm wondering why you would put it back together knowing the rod is an 1/8th inch shorter than normal. With your cam, which is cast iron, I'd recommend getting a new or used steel rod and put that in. No need for the bronze tipped pump rod with your Comp 292 cam.
THANKS , Im gonna stop at local speed shop compare lengths to new & drain oil . Put rod back in & hold with finger while barring engine over to see if i feel anything ( saw video where fuel rod broke & put ripples in cam lobe) . I just thought maybe throwing pump back on & run it out of a gas can to eliminate fuel tank clog .its a full tank & when i pulled line off pump last nite , barely any fuel dripped out . DID READ that hearing a ticking before engine dying is most likely broken tip. Heard the ticking before she quit so..... .Also gonna get borescope attatchment for phone , maybe see cam or broken tip in oil pan . THANKS TO ALL . Will update .Have a great weekend .
Bronze tip on fuel pump rod with a cast cam is not only unnecessary it simply won't work. Cast is much to porous and will abrade the bronze. Also shortening the rod .125 will cause the pump to not work . As others have said a stock shaft will work fine.
Comp cams 292 cam has a fuel pump lobe so that shouldn't be an issue unless it is whiped out. I'm with the others in that a stock steel fuel pump pushrod for that block should work fine. They do sell a fuel pump pushrod for Chevy. Bronze tips for steel cams.
This might help you out. https://www.onallcylinders.com/2021...-pick-the-right-mechanical-fuel-pump-pushrod/
I have several chevy engines spart but never saw a fuel pump rod with a bronz tip, what did they come in?
A youtube video by COMP cams says they should ALSO be used with engines running a higher volume fuel pump at least thats how i understood it . My thing now is if it wore down or broke off & trying to get it out WITHOUT pulling the pan if possible . Looking to get cheap android borescope to look inside .XDRAG , THANKS THST WSS A GREAT ARTICLE !
LMAO ALGO!! Not the fuel rod , i got that out , thats how i know the tip is gone . The broken bronze tip ( if it broke off & didnt just wear off) would be lying in the oil pan i would be guessing . I got No problem with leaving it in if it wont hurt anything , but if it can , im trying to flush it out, fish it out before actually having to drop pan ( pulling motor mount bolts , trans cooler lines, jacking engine and dealing with gasket) if i dont need to . BUT Thanks for the help Algo !!
Sorry, but just thought you were getting panicky and overthinking things, as sometimes happens. Do you have a picture of the end of the pushrod to post? Does it look like rub wear, or break? Do the tips screw on, or press fit with pin, or ????
So a cam lobe running like 300 pounds of spring pressure on a lifter doesn't need a bronze wear area but a high volume mechanical pump that maybe has 30 pounds of pressure on the push rod needs one? I honestly have never seen a stock push rod on a high volume pump wear out a cam on a Chevy . Seems like a solution to a problem that does not exist on any street engine really.
1/8 inch length difference should not matter , for fuel pump to work correct Unless gasket under plate to block thicker then stock & fuel pump gasket thick , this all adds up making rod short. I have not personally experimented with length of the fuel push rod. I have had some where Br*** like 1/8 thick & some like 1/2 thick , also ones for R cam wheel & Graphite push rod .. If br*** fell off it should not make it p*** Entering the oil pick up, nothing Realy on bottom end to worry about the weight of the Br*** should make it to windage tray of oil pan or in the sump of the pan, Pretty much impossible to fall into timing chain gear If It made p*** that should be in oil pan. If this was Needles from lifters or Roller rockers or br*** off br*** distributor gear, then I would be concerned. I have seen this ****ed up threw oil pump & end up in bearings if byp*** not eliminated
ALL GO ALGO! LOL .YEAH EDDY, i feel the same way ,so i cut filter open yesterday and found bronze slivers in the pleats with some specs of gold glitter ( not alot) but you could really see the gold in the oil from the filter . So the rod is a Comp Cams 4607 ( the rod wore smooth & looks like bronze tip is pressed in as there is still a bronze center in the rod .i dont think the bronze tip will hurt anything leaving it in the pan ( IF IT BROKE OFF) . If it WORE down in 3000 miles , Now im wondering if i should use one of these again & have to inspect or change rod out every oil change( THSTS CRAZY IMO) .Do i even NEED the bronze tip ? I didint build the engine , it was installed by speed shop . I ALMOST WOULD RATHER just run a lite weight moroso .Worse could happen is cam wipes & i yank engine & build a 383 stroker with it . Really dont want to drop pan if i dont need to .
The bronze tip is only necessary on a steel cam and as was said earlier your cam is cast iron and too abrasive for the bronze, that’s the reason it wore away. My concern would be with the ground bits of bronze, which is relatively hard, damaging the main bearings which are the first to be fed. Did you notice any change in the oil pressure when the engine was still running? Should you use one again, or maybe go with the Moroso? If it was mine I’d put a stock steel rod in and forget the aftermarket stuff. And I’d also be questioning the wisdom of the shop that thought the bronze tipped rod was necessary in the first place. JMO.
As @Fordors states above, as long as it's a regular flat tappet cam, just use standard issue fuel pump push rod. Couple of oil changes and monitor for oil pressure drop(increased bearing clearance) from possible bronze shaving wear.
THANKS .if they followed Comps video i posted ( which states High volume should use bronze tip) maybe thats why he used it . But im going to go Steel ( light weight ) & watch oil psi like you guys said . Never noticed low oil psi . Gotta get this back together & Run er see where its at .THANKS for all the HELP !! if she implodes , i will tell about it .
Like i said , NO FRACTURE JAGETNESS, SMOOTH end . Just to update what i found , slivers were in pleats of napa gold 1060 filter .along with little specles of gold . AWAY we go --- gonna run a steel .
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