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Technical Stock Shoebox Upper Control Arm Shaft Removal

Discussion in 'The Hokey Ass Message Board' started by wayneyada, Nov 8, 2025.

  1. wayneyada
    Joined: Nov 14, 2011
    Posts: 4

    wayneyada
    Member

    Hi all,
    While my '50 Ford woodie wagon has a 350/700R4 as its drivetrain, the front end is still totally stock . . . and for the most part, it's been fine. But I've decided to dig into replacing some of the front end parts that were getting pretty bad, and got a little stuck today. According to the green shoebox bible and a parts book I have, on each side there are just two bolts holding the upper control arm shaft to the body on my car. After breaking them loose, the bolts are just spinning, so it appears that they must have nuts on the bottom side. After a second check in my references, it DOES look like there is a nut. So my question: I've looked everywhere I can look, but cannot find access to ANY such nuts to hold them in place while I spin the bolts out. Can anyone give me some direction on WHERE exactly to look?

    Thanks much!
     
  2. alchemy
    Joined: Sep 27, 2002
    Posts: 22,777

    alchemy
    Member

  3. lostn51
    Joined: Jan 24, 2008
    Posts: 3,429

    lostn51
    ALLIANCE MEMBER
    from Tennessee

    Yep you reach through the spring pocket and it’s a PITA!!
     
    wayneyada likes this.
  4. kls50
    Joined: Sep 9, 2013
    Posts: 282

    kls50
    ALLIANCE MEMBER

    I upgraded to the Steering linkage from Shoebox central that fixed the bump steer. I don't have to worry about hitting a pothole and then a telephone pole anymore! Worth the money in my opinion
     
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  5. wayneyada
    Joined: Nov 14, 2011
    Posts: 4

    wayneyada
    Member

    @alchemy - Thanks so much for your quick response. Just kind of confirmed my su****ions that both the shock and spring have to be removed to access that acorn lock nut on the bottom of those bolts. (It would have been SOOOO nice if that "little detail" were listed in the green shoebox bible)! Removal of both shock and spring was easier than I anticipated. I jacked up the front of the car and placed axle stands, immediately behind the A-Posts (on both L and R sides) and removed front wheels. Then I did the following to each side: I put a jack under the spring and raised it so the spring was compressed totally; then removed the bolt holding the top of the spindle to the upper control arm. Once that was out, I let the jack down SLOWLY and when tension was released from spindle (and a small hammer tap), the top of the spindle came loose from the upper control arm. Then, I just let the the jack down (again, slowly) the rest of the way, allowing the lower control arm w/spindle to drop down . . . and the spring pretty much fell out. With the spring tower now empty, I could reach up into it and feel the acorn nut, and with a short 3/4" open end wrench, was able to hold it onto the nut with one hand and ratcheted the bolt out with the other hand. You still cannot see that acorn nut, but if you know what you're "feeling" for, it's not a big deal.
     
    Last edited: Nov 11, 2025
    Algoma56 likes this.
  6. Mr48chev
    Joined: Dec 28, 2007
    Posts: 36,050

    Mr48chev
    ALLIANCE MEMBER

    That pretty well turned into an instruction sheet.

    When you change the control arm bushings chuck the control arm shaft in a vise so you can unscrew the bushings and put the new ones back the same way.
     
    Algoma56 likes this.
  7. And installing a camber kit certainly would be easy since the front end is apart.
     
  8. wayneyada
    Joined: Nov 14, 2011
    Posts: 4

    wayneyada
    Member

    OK, since I have everything apart now, I'm attempting to re***emble the control arms/spindle support (kingpin ***y). I'm using new bushings & seals. I have compared new parts to old, and all look to be the same. My old seals however were just a "glob of rubber" when I took them out, I have nothing to compare the new seals to, so I have to ***ume they are correct. Here's my initial problem with the lower/outer bushings/seals: When I put all the pieces together, their length is about 2-7/8 inches . . . but the gap in the control arm is only 2-3/8 inches. While I understand I may have to squeeze the seals a bit to fit, I don't think there's any way I can squeeze 1/2" between the two. What am I doing wrong? See photos: https://share.icloud.com/photos/04b-WR6de55oNjRFqzFOFu5SQ
     
    Algoma56 likes this.
  9. wayneyada
    Joined: Nov 14, 2011
    Posts: 4

    wayneyada
    Member

    Update: I actually figured out the outer/lower process to get the seals in. The secret is to bring the adjuster all the way in prior to running the main bolt/shaft all the way thru. This gives you enough room to fit the seals in without too much h***le.
    Having said that, that still leaves the outer/upper bushings/seals to install . . . and this one has no threaded adjuster like the lower one did, but rather just a large eccentric to adjust it. That doesn't help either way with installing those seals. So REALLY could use some help with this one. I know I'm not the only person to go thru this. Please share your insight. Thx much!
     
    Algoma56 likes this.

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