Technical Crank pulley demise

Well I’m at my end. I’ve soaked I’ve heated I’ve taped I’ve banged I’ve use a puller. It’s a *****. Now sheave is off but sleeve is still on crank nose?!? I’ve listen too many ideas but here I sit. I’m in a dark place today…

 

Cutting wheel and an air chisel?

 

***uming you don't want to use heat (torch), you could use a pipe threader and thread the sleeve. then make a puller out of a pipe coupling. Second option is a Dremel tool cutoff wheel and split the sleeve.

 

I was thinking that is really my only opt. Thank you.

 

Dremel ,180* 2 very careful cuts

 

180* 2 cuts ? Not following your idea.

 

Seems the sleeve tucks in a tad at timing cover & pan. This concerns me to.

 

That sleeve extends into the timing cover and through the front main seal. This appears to be a LT1. Therefore, unless you want to remove the front cover and replace the seal dont use torch heat. Yet.

That engine must have seen salt or something to make that hub rust to the crank. Hopefully, it isn't that way all the way to the seal. I would try what mark Hogan suggested. Cut 2 slots 180 degrees apart, as far back as you can safely. Don't cut all the way through or you really will have a mess! This will relieve some of the tension between the hub and crank.

That hub is keyed, so you can't twist it with a pipe wrench or similar. I would make a 5/16-3/8" thick "washer" that leaves about a half inch flange all the way around and weld it to the hub about 3/8-1/2" back from the end. Weld it in 3 or 4 places. It doesnt need to be a continuous weld. Wrap the hub between the "washer" and the timing cover with wet rags to keep that cool. After welding the "washer", use a slide hammer puller, hooking it to the flange. I believe the heat will help break it loose and you won't have any problem pulling it off.

Good luck! It ****s to be in these situations and we've all been there. Just adhere to the physician's creed, "Do no harm."

 

After welding tabs/washers push a crayon on the end of the crank between the shaft and sleeve the wax will wick between the shaft and sleeve. It doesn’t take much heat just enough to melt the crayon maybe 250 degrees the wax will wick to the heat source, kind of like solder. Hopefully this will free it up.
Dan

 

I'd split all the way thru the sleeve as far as I could right on top of the keyway with a dremel.

For 2 reasons, 1-totally splitting the sleeve as far back as you can will give a bunch of relief and the sleeve is thinnest there, 2- the keyway can be easily removed and replaced so hitting it with the dremel is no big deal.

Just my 2 cents...

...

 

I stand corrected. That is a flathead. My method still applies. The suggestion to cut all the way through on top of the key is a better approach.

 

I've learned that some of those Chinese Dremel wheels last long enough it makes it worth it to buy a box of them for this sort of stuff.

 

Good advice above. I would cut it with a Dremel, make sure you have a few cutoff wheels.

 

I cleaned the sleeve up and found this break full of dirt & grease, used a pick to clean, it appears to run with keyway slot? Like cracked. I’m going to run from front to crack to relieve pressure. I would had never seen this behind the sheave? Thinking back in the forty’s some one had a hard time installing this dam thing!

 

2 cuts 180 degrees apart

 

I wonder if something weird has happened to the woodruff key or it was too big to begin with and that’s why it’s split there.

 

You are going to need to replace the rope seal too,, so might as well pull the pan and front cover to make the removal easier.

 

I’ve taken the time to Dremel a line from nose of sleeve to existing crack in sleeve. Then tapped with chisel, then hit it with an air chisel, and heard and seen the pop. It cracked all the way. Soaking with penetrating oil. It’s going to pull right off soon.good day

 

Cool

 

It would be interesting to see it once it is off. To my worn-out eyes it looks like the key slot is not in line with the original "split". Maybe someone had managed to install it without lining up the keyway (with a big enough hammer you may be able to do this, I have seen it once on a small 1 cyl engine), or the key has bent and jammed in there.

 

I’ll post as I find what’s the deal.

 

Might be time to bite the bullet and pull the motor and extract the crank. You may end up having to chuck the crank into a lathe and cut the sleeve off.

Even if you do get it off in situ, probably will need to remachine the snout to clean up the rust, chisel, and grinder damage anyways.