Technical 1954 Chevy 210 Turn Signal Issues

For lack of a better descriptor, my turn signals have been acting up. First they were not cancelling every time. I noticed they would be still blinking after a turn. I would cancel manually and move on. Today the stalk felt different. It feels gummy, like it is not fully engaging and I am not seeing turn signals activated. I dropped the cup holding the cam and switch in place and I can see some movement, but I do not know what is appropriate. Any suggestions on cleaning the cam mechanism out and trouble shooting this?

 

Here’s a pic of a complete working unit. Does your’s look like it? Any missing or broken parts after seeing this?
Post a pic of yours for us to see.

 

Thank you. I will pull the wheel tomorrow after work. and check with yours..

 

I edited my post, added more info.

 

Thank you. I appreciate your help.

 

Make sure the gap between the collar and the steering wheel are close.

 

Take the Phillips head screw holding the cup to the mast jacket to Ace Hardware - get an Allen head same length to replace it so the switch doesn't ever come loose again.
The switch is easy to take apart, clean & lube.

 

I replaced the tiny springs that handle he canceling part of the mechanism on mine. I haven't installed it yet but just two nights ago I pulled it off the "to do" pegboard and noticed I had purchased a new wiring harness for it. Need to see how that will adapt to my wiring harness i purchased.

I also noticed mine was acting " gummed up". Wonder what the best modern lubricant would be best suited for this application? I'm hesitant to go spraying brake clean all over it to get the gummed up **** off the rocker parts that get pushed by the steering wheel. Maybe some cotton swabs drenched in some isopropyl alcohol would do the trick. Sorry but no real answer from me but thought I might post what I've done and found on mine.

 

I shot these this morning. Stalk side does have more of a gap. switch feels better this morning. Still no flashers and the cancel function is working. Will pull wheel after work and take a better look and show pics.

 

Here is what mine looks like. It appears to be hitting both sides of the switch just fine.

 

I yanked the ***embly and I can manipulate that piece inside the switch. It feels pretty loose. When I move it up and down I do not get any turn signal action. Did the switch take a dump?

 

Did you turn the key switch on?

 

The crack looks concerning. Does the pivot screw feel firm when tight?

A uncomplicated cup for comparison.

 

I did. And I got the car running for good measure.

I found this flasher which appears to be related to it. and it is getting 12v to ground in and out.

 

These are fuses. That is a flasher

 

Copy. Then the flasher is getting power on both sides.

 

Do you have the wiring diagram for the car?
I tried to find a good one, but searches these days get so much garbage.
I did find this here at the HAMB. This might get you closer.
https://www.jalopyjournal.com/forum/threads/54-chevy-turn-signals.1168733/

 

I'll check that out. Electrical is not my strong suit, but I will learn. Car was done at some time by a PO when it was updated...and the wiring under the dash is not the cleanest. Will have to plan time to go through that. So here is what I know at this point:

The turn signal mechanism appears to work as intended. I can see it go to each of the detents in the top and bottom of the p***enger side. You can see it set to the top detent in the initial photo.

The crack in the cup where the screw mounts is concerning and my cup is not perfectly round. The cup is snugged up but not uniformly. But I am not sure if those impact the functioning of the turn signals. It looks like the mechanism just moves the switch in the gold housing. I do not think there is a circuit being completed by the mechanism.

When I pulled the mechanism I could manipulate the switch back and forth and was getting no turn signals even when the car was running. The switch inside felt very loose. No real resistance or clicking. It just slides.

The flasher is getting 12v in and 12v out when I turn on the ignition. Should it cut in and out when activated from the stalk? Does this indicate a bad flasher? If that were the case, I would think the turn signals would be on all the time?

I have functioning parking lights. When I pull the headlight switch 1/2 way I have parking and brake lights on.

When I turn on the headlights the parking lights go out and the headlights and brake/ rear running lights are on.

 

Read post 7 again. If no detents are felt, take the switch apart & replace the broken parts, The springs can be made from Bic lighter parts.

 

You have a bad turn signal switch. I'll note that the head/park/tail lights are powered and controlled from the headlight switch; the turn/brake lights are powered and controlled completely separately other than grounds. A lot of these old turn switches are unobtanium, but you're in luck; repos are available and at a very reasonable price... 1954 Chevrolet Bel Air Parts | TF900446 | 1953-54 Chevy Bel Air, 150, 210; Turn Signal Switch | Cl***ic Industries

You mention the wiring is a bit messy, so I would highly recommend physically identifying each wire going to the switch before trying to install the new switch. There should be six wires; turn power will show voltage with the key on only, brake light power will show voltage when the pedal is depressed (key on or off), and the left front light, right front, etc etc. Connect each of these in turn to voltage to identify them, then mark.

As I'm not very trusting of wiring diagrams or color codes, testing your new switch using this info... Turn Signal Wiring How-to | The H.A.M.B. ... will verify where each wire connects and also confirm that the switch is good.

 

Thank you. I am going to oder a new switch and I am testing the flasher for resistance this afternoon.
Hopefully I can get it knocked out before we head to Iowa for the Holiday.

 

Agreed. $10 part. I will be getting one, more about the rigor of practice for me. Using a volt meter.
Checking resistance on the part reporting out what I find.

 

Lots of GM cars the headlight switch controls park lights with switch first stop. Second stop headlights on park lights off. Later switches allowed the park lights to stay on when the headlights were on.

 

Just a note, the new flashers are ****. I got 3 bad ones in a row from 3 different stores. Found a NOS one and it worked great.

 

There are different flashers! The chevy was originally 6 volt, there are 12 volt ones, 2 prong, 3 prong, older bimetallic operation and modern electronic.
https://www.delcity.net/store/relays-power-distribution/flashers/
Note that the old style requires more amp flow than a meter will provide for operation.

 

Resistance on the flasher is 53..... That seems low.
Replaced flasher and we are up and running.

I have a second switch enroute and I will keep it in the parts stash for future needs.
I think I was thrown on a red herring by the poor feel to the stalk. On the plus side I have it all pulled out and cleaned up. It feels much more solid.

Thank you to all who ***isted in the diag.

 

Park lights that stayed on with the headlights on didn't come about until 1968 when the feds required side marker lights and the park lights often served as side marker lights or the added side marker lights were run off the park light circuit. Any earlier car or truck with park lights working when the headlights are on has been rewired to do so. On the 53. that is moving the Park light wire over with the Tail light wire on the headlight switch if you have a stock switch.