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Technical Caster and Panhard bar

Discussion in 'Traditional Hot Rods' started by De Konjel, Nov 23, 2025.

  1. [​IMG]
    I have a question about my front suspension.
    Built an A-Ford Speedster (which is allowed on the road but is actually used most on the beach) with fairly standard parts. What I changed is a 1" dropped front crossmember and removed some leaf springs. As a result, it has dropped quite a bit with still reasonable suspension.
    But because I still mounted the original wishbone in its original location, I have too much caster!
    Now I want to split the original wishbone so I can move the mounting points up and reduce the caster.
    What is the "ideal" caster? Around 7 degrees? Or is there a difference for different usage?
    I use the original steering. Do I need a Panhard bar?

    Thanks, Bart
     
    Deutscher likes this.
  2. brokenspoke
    Joined: Jul 26, 2005
    Posts: 2,988

    brokenspoke
    Member

    How much caster do you have now? You can Pie cut the wishbones to adjust Caster. I like 5 degrees positive Caster.
     
  3. 19Eddy30
    Joined: Mar 27, 2011
    Posts: 3,915

    19Eddy30
    Member
    from VA

    Each stet up different ,
    More caster for higher speeds ,steering heavy.
    Did you check @ ride height on ground.
    if you know thats
    The caster you want you can cut bones to cast you want & use slip tube inside plug weld & weld back up smooth out.
    Panbar optional when setting up pan bar same thing set / adjust @
    ride height
     
    mad mikey likes this.
  4. I still have to take an exact measurement, but it is well over 10 degrees!!
     
  5. krylon32
    Joined: Jan 29, 2006
    Posts: 10,773

    krylon32
    ALLIANCE MEMBER
    from Nebraska

    I just did a thread where a couple of front end guru's recommended 4-5 degrees for street driving.
     
  6. Johnny Gee
    Joined: Dec 3, 2009
    Posts: 14,352

    Johnny Gee
    Member
    from Downey, Ca

    Is it the numbers that bother you, or how the car handles? Stock steering box location no panhard needed.
     
  7. Its not (only) the numbers that bothers me. Straight line is OK but its the steering thats going tough.
    Thought if I made the caster less positive the straight line would still be ok but the steering would improve.
     
    Johnny Gee likes this.
  8. THE FRENCHTOWN FLYER
    Joined: Jun 6, 2007
    Posts: 6,084

    THE FRENCHTOWN FLYER
    Member
    from FRENCHTOWN

    I had 10 degrees on my coupe and it gave me death wobble. I adjusted it down to seven degrees - as much as my Heim ends would allow - and the death wobble was cured. I think 4 - 5 degrees will be more than adequate.

    Another car I own, a tub with a buggy spring and cross steering is awaiting a Panhard bar to eliminate erratic steering caused by the swaying spring shackles.
     
    bchctybob likes this.
  9. ‘28 RPU
    Joined: Feb 11, 2022
    Posts: 327

    ‘28 RPU

    I agree, lower the rear (for one thing, it’s free)
     
  10. 1971BB427
    Joined: Mar 6, 2010
    Posts: 9,816

    1971BB427
    Member
    from Oregon

    I usually try for 6-7 degrees, but for short wheelbase cars I use 10-11 degrees. My Austin sedan is 89" wheelbase and set at 10 degrees. It wants to go straight at trap speeds over 100 mph and never had any death wobble or handling issues. I do notice when turning sharply on gr***, or loose surface the tires will slide when the wheel is cranked hard to either direction. But the plus is the steeper angle makes it hold straight at high speeds easily.
     
    19Eddy30 likes this.

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