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Technical Anybody use Lime Line Paint & Flake?

Discussion in 'Traditional Customs' started by G9mickey, Oct 27, 2025.

  1. G9mickey
    Joined: Jun 7, 2005
    Posts: 251

    G9mickey
    Member

    Im thinking about flaking my roof on my 64 bird. I saw a lot of videos of people using this product but, they never say if it held up after a few years etc. Anyone on here use these products? Do you have some picts? Are you satisfied with the results?
     
  2. Bandit Billy
    Joined: Sep 16, 2014
    Posts: 15,954

    Bandit Billy
    ALLIANCE MEMBER

    I never sprayed it, but a friend did. Looks nice. Use their 2k clear over the top and it should last fine.
     
    GordonC likes this.
  3. Gahrajmahal
    Joined: Oct 14, 2008
    Posts: 594

    Gahrajmahal
    Member

    Hello, Lime Line looks to be a no-name brand of automotive paint that can be had for less $$ than PPG, DuPont and House of Color. I sprayed my Avitar Chrysler 300 with a similar no-name paint called https://www.orionautomotivefinishes.com/. I got there looking at Tamco paint. There is also Rage I believe.
    Orion has a similar line of clears, candy concentrate, pearls and supplies. I sprayed my car white primer sealer, gold pearl, candy red fades (mixed from concentrate), and a holographic dry gold flake over everything before spraying overall with four coats of their most economical clear, EazyClear.
    I was fortunate as I was able to rent a spray booth for this epic 12+ hour spraying session bu myself. But I have successfully sprayed this paint outdoors in the driveway. Choose the morning for your final clear as there is generally less wind and the sun isn’t so hot to heat up your roof.
    Orion has a nice Inter-coat clear, which is designed to spray with no hardener allowing you to wet sand while doing panel work, fades, lace etc. It is ment to be top coated with catelized clear (EazyClear or others).

    I did not have as much luck spraying our 1970 MGB with TCB global brand low cost paint. It was either dry as sandpaper or running off the panels (even horizontal!) I ended up wet sanding it smooth, retouching the thin parts and spraying with PPG clear for the final no runs coat.

    Both of these paint jobs were cut and buffed after spraying.

    See them both in this thread. https://www.jalopyjournal.com/forum...025-off-topic-vehicles.1342942/#post-15732131
     
  4. G9mickey
    Joined: Jun 7, 2005
    Posts: 251

    G9mickey
    Member

    Wow that looks awesome!! Thanks for the feedback. That process you outlined for the Chrysler gave you some really great results. Thanks for sharing.
     
    Gahrajmahal likes this.
  5. Mr48chev
    Joined: Dec 28, 2007
    Posts: 35,967

    Mr48chev
    ALLIANCE MEMBER

    The local lowrider brigade is big into metalflake and the one continuing thing with flake no matter who sells it is that it takes a **** ton of clear to ever have a smooth and show quality finish. You aren't going to put real metalflake on, lay on two coats of clear and call it good.
     
    wfo guy likes this.
  6. Gahrajmahal
    Joined: Oct 14, 2008
    Posts: 594

    Gahrajmahal
    Member

    Mr48chev, you got that right! But it all depends on the size of the flake. I’m a custom painter of the 70’s and the paint products from back then to 2025 are very different. I’m still trying to figure them out! I am also a big fan of using dry flakes in a clear. It is much more economical plus you can try it out on something before hand.
    IMG_1574.jpeg IMG_1577.jpeg

    I like pearl powders for the change in color depending on the light conditions. You should find something in your garage to practice on. I chose my paint supplies tool box, old welding helmet and Lincoln stick welder. My trash can has some panel paint on it, but it is so old now it looks poor in photos.

    You don’t need spe******t spray guns either for your project. You can get almost as good a paint job on your roof with a Harbor Freight purple gun as a $1000 Iwata or other gun. If I was to start over again with my 2025 spray gun purchases I’d go with the 3M plastic throw away system. The home painters biggest foe is spraying multiple colors from one gun and not getting it clean between colors and paints, especially with catalyzed paints. There is nothing more frustrating than lay in down your final clear coat to only have the gun dislodge some missed paint coming in chunks in your final p***.
    Here is a collection of some of my spray guns and dry flakes.
    IMG_7592.jpeg IMG_1576.jpeg

    Here are some large flakes used on my steering wheel, they are not buried in clear as I have had problems with the catalyzed clear lifting when I put on five or more coats of paint. This has not been sanded or buffed, it is “as sprayed” in texture. Still smooth and shiny, but bumpy.
    IMG_1572.jpeg IMG_1573.jpeg

    As far as longevity of Lime Line or other paint, even a Rustoleum paint job will look good for two years or so. Then just re-spray it, because you will want a change again any way. You can see mt Chrysler in the Avitar has a different paint job then the new shiny paint job in the thread I linked to. I would expect the Lime Line paint to look good for five or more years and the same for the Orion brand I used.

    Here is a close up of the flake in the Chrysler and also the factory white pearl on the Mrs Toyota. Neither of these require extra clear to cover and are sparkly in the sun. Your roof, I expect will have panels, multi colors and paint techniques that will work in place of extra large flakes.

    If you are going to spray extra large flakes I would suggest using a “dry flake” gun. I haven’t had luck using modern paints and mixing the large flakes I in the clear. I continue to get paint reactions when I spray too many coats.
    IMG_1570.jpeg IMG_1571.jpeg IMG_1578.jpeg IMG_1580.png
     
    williebill likes this.
  7. G9mickey
    Joined: Jun 7, 2005
    Posts: 251

    G9mickey
    Member

    Sound like I should use smaller flake because I do want a very smooth finish in the end but, I dont want to have to go too thick on the clear because I may have adhesion issues.
     
  8. Gearhead Graphics
    Joined: Oct 4, 2008
    Posts: 3,890

    Gearhead Graphics
    Member
    from Denver Co

    Lime is a small off brand repackaged.
    Decent if you don't need high end.

    Personally, I use revoltautopaint.com now. Great value for the price and the mest customer service in the industry.

    Flake it big (didspade) use some revolt euro clear (66% solids) to bury the Flake 3 or so coats. Knock it down with 600, coat it again and be flakey!
     
    Bill's Auto Works, rod1 and G9mickey like this.
  9. Gahrajmahal
    Joined: Oct 14, 2008
    Posts: 594

    Gahrajmahal
    Member

    williebill likes this.
  10. Rich796
    Joined: Nov 18, 2023
    Posts: 64

    Rich796

    If you are worried about higher film build issues. HOK is specifically formulated for custom, higher film build finishes.

    The amount/thickness of clear you'll need in the end. Will depend on what, and how you actually spray it. A kandy mid coat, whether Base or UK. Will start to get the flake buried, before the clear goes on. If you want something other than a " plain " silver flake.
     
  11. 29Sleeper
    Joined: Oct 25, 2023
    Posts: 491

    29Sleeper
    Member
    from SoCal

    I typical knockoff fashion Harbor Freight has the throw away system and an adapter to fit the purple (and their other) gun. Watch for the sale they end up 80 cents each instead of $1.
    The starter kit is on sale for $9 - https://www.harborfreight.com/20-oz-universal-paint-system-starter-kit-57508.html
    Adapters are $5
     
    rod1 likes this.

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