Or wax and grease remover and clay bar, if you get to crazy with the solvents you might be removing color with the wax…
I would try spray detailer. Hose it down liberally, don't let it dry but let it soften and work through the dried, hardened wax. Use the abrasive, side of a microfiber detail towel to remove the wax, then turn the towel to the soft side for polishing using more detail spray as needed.
I still use Turtle paste wax after I clay bar on all 3 of our car/trucks. The 56 gets Harley (nothing to do with HD) Wax on the dash. Some habits are very hard to break.
I still use paste wax just because dad said it was “better than the new fangled liquid stuff these folks are trying to push off on you.” This was in the early stages of the liquid wax revolution in the early 80’s.
This is what I do. It worked on a friend's pickup where they'd left the dried wax residue on there for a couple years.
i liked blue coral two step it took an afternoon to apply but a year later it would not even get wet when it rained now i can not get wax to bead water after two weeks
When I buff a car that still has emblems mirrors & door handles (meaning I didn't just paint it) I use my pressure washer to get the dried compound from around & in between. I would think it would remove dried wax just as easily. Get it wet, let it sit for a minute & go for it. Obviously you have to use common sense & not set it on the highest setting or hold it an inch from the surface. God Bless Bill https://www.jalopyjournal.com/forum...ar-transport-hauling-open-or-enclosed.614419/
Soft tooth brush helps in tight areas dipped in wax and grease remover, then micro fiber towel to clean the area.
If its excessive: Wax and grease remover (panel prep), mineral spirits, naptha. Be sure to test on paint. I do like paste wax This fall I waxed daily driver truck with 5 different waxes I had on shelf, different panels, to see what lasts the longest.
I must be really out of touch... As I remember it, back in the old days you were suppose apply the paste wax with the applicator to a 3' x 3' area, let the wax dry, then buff it to shine with a dry soft cloth. If you got it too thick, or spread it too far over too large of an area in a few places, you may have had to rub it a bit harder. It sounds to me like you spread the wax too far before you buffed it to the shine. Get a clean soft cloth, and rub it a bit harder. the next time, you won't spread it over too large of an area and let it dry so much before you buff it out.
Hello, In the beginning of our own hot rod adventure, the paste wax of choice was Vista Wax in the gold can. What a product it was… When someone says or a dealer said " I will Simoniz your car," they meant to say I will use Simoniz Wax. Then their detailers in the back of the dealer's lot applied the favorite wax of the time. This wax was the best as it was easy to put on the surfaces. But, one had to let it dry for a few minutes and then quickly wipe it off with a cotton beach towel. The nibs of the cotton towel took off the majority of the dry wax. More rubbing took off the rest. As the cotton towel began to load up with wax of sorts, then a new white cotton towel was brought up for service. If one tried to do the whole hood, sometimes it drew a disastrous result of trying for more. The wax hardened and it got a little difficult to take off with a swish of the cotton towel. It was difficult to go over it again and again as it would leave some hard to see swirls. On a black paint surface, they show up so much more than other colors. But, that wax was to be used in small areas with quick wipe offs with a clean cotton towel. Trying to wax the whole car brought disastrous results and more wiping. Sometimes with a wet towel to help loosen the dried paste wax coating. Then at one car show, we saw a Cadillac Blue Coral display and that changed the whole waxing scheme. As the newer waxes came on the market and car shows, we changed over to Cadillac Blue Coral Wax. As difficult as Blue Coral wax was, it left the best, deepest shine of any wax product at the time. But, again, the Blue Coral could not be used on the whole car at one time. It dried fast and one had to use a clean cotton towel to get the dried wax off. We learned not to go too far with the initial coating. Perhaps half of a hood, wipe off then the other half would be appropriate. The resulting shine was tremendous. Finally, as the primary driver during high school, the Cl***ic Car Wax took over the detailing as it was easy to put on and take off. The Cadillac Blue Coral made the deep shine, but was a bear to take off. The Cl***ic Car Wax protected the surface with its high content of Carnuba. I bought my first can in 1962 and recently opened the last one I had saved over the years. Currently, these two “old guys” only come out when a chrome or stainless steel item in the house needs a buff or two. Also, what little chrome or stainless that is in/on the actual cars get a touch of nostalgia for the smells. Back when Cl***ic Car Wax first came out, we were at the LA County Fair in Pomona. There was this guy with a black hood on the display table for all to see. He poured lighter fluid on the hood and lit it on fire. After putting it out, he told us to touch the surface. He was trying to impress the teenager girls that were with us. No way… It was too hot. So, he cools the hood down with a cold wet towel. Then he threw his dry towel across the black hood and it slid all the way across and onto the table top. The surface was as deep as before the fire and he added another coat of Cl***ic Car Wax and told us to come back in 20 minutes to check it out. When we came back, he told me to wipe it off. It came off easily and the shine was superb. I bought my first can right on the spot. The 1958 black Impala paint surface never looked so good. Easy on, easy off, with the deepest shine in the whole cruising scene in Bixby Knolls. I kept all of our cars in a shiny condition using Cl***ic Car Wax until they quit making the product in 1975. Pure Carnuba wax was the main ingredient… But, the good thing was the whole car could have the Cl***ic Car Wax applied to dry. As one gets back to the doors or rear panels, the front is dry, ready to wipe clean. It came off easily and loaded up the towels. So, more clean cotton towels were used. The surface was clean and ready for any action/weather. Jnaki Now, it is/was an easy on, easy off Carnuba Wax from Collinite. A company that has been around since 1930’s. But, my wife was getting to a point of not wanting a black car due to always having to clean it. Even the black carpet got the smallest piece of "stuff" and it instantly showed up in contrast to the deep color. The name brands that have Carnuba as the main ingredient have results similar, but not as good, depending on the amount of Carnuba was is involved. But, paste wax is so much better than liquid wax for all applications. The liquid detail wax is water with wax mixed. It does a good job of temporary cleaning any residue on the paint surface. But, should not be the Number 1 form of car wax for the whole car/boat. The paste wax was used on our sailboat that was always outdoors in the salt water and daily sun. Normal brand wax lasted about two months. The Collinite Carnuba Wax lasted more than 7 months. For older folks, the Collinite Wax is the best on the market and is applied to all of our family cars. The best result was the every 6-7 months of sailboat wax that showed us how good the wax is in the worst environment to leave a sailboat or car outside 24 hours of the day/night. When we cleaned the boat, the beads of water were evident and rolled right off of each surface. Now, the family cars do the same upon car washing days. Forget to wipe off the excess? No problem, a clean white towel simply gets all of the residue off, any time during the action in the covered shady garage…YRMV
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