Featured Projects Nothing to see here - Just another boring Merc build

Do they make roll pins that big?

 

Buy some 5/16" round rod and bore it out.

 

I didn't think it was necessary, but I think it would stop me from over-tightening the bolts. The clamps were in good shape, but the 5/16" bolts and spacers were rusted and/or broken. I looked for roll pins and tubing locally and didn't find anything that would work. I found some cheap ($5) stainless tubing w/ 8.1mm ID on Amazon. I'm going to try that. Should be fine. I'm probably doing a lot of overkill on this whole project, but I'd like to do it once and never have to redo anything later.
Finished up the frame painting and I'm ready to start bolting things on it. But it's pretty cold here today and I'm not wanting to heat the shop. I'll get back at it in a couple days.

 

@1pickup They are in no way structural. Meant to keep from over tightening and are not necessary. If you use a Nyloc they will not loosen up.

 

Many years ago, I asked Rick at Oregon Spring why they are even there. His answer was to keep the leaves in alignment while being handled. If one gets dropped in handling the leaves can fan out like a hand of cards and we don't want that. Once installed with the U-Bolts in place the only way the leaves can slid sideways is if they brake at the center bolt. I took that as a solid answer and never have worried about them since.

 

never heard eaves trough for gutter before-but sure remember those spacers on ogee 'eavestrough'

 

I'm using some rubber roofing material for anti-squeak gaskets on the fuel tank hanger, and tank when I get that far.

Fitting the adapter onto the power steering box. Supposed to be a direct bolt on. Had to get the rat tail file out to make it bolt on. Typical.
Now I'm trying to make the 3 bolts go through the frame and thread into the bracket. It's never an easy bolt on.

 

That looks like the 60's up F-100 steering gear package.

 

@Pist-n-Broke 2000 Grand Cherokee

 

Nothing bolts on til' you make it fit

 

GREAT START--LOOKING GOOD-- CAN YOU USE A 1999-2001 EXPLORER REAR WITH DISC BRAKES--ALL KIND OF GEAR SELECTION AND CHEAP--- GO WITH A FORD 5 SPEED TRANS AND A FORD ENGINE 302--351 W --NOT GM--FORD IN A FORD
MUSTANG II FRONT SUSPENSION WITH POWER RACK---

GOOD LUCK

 

Already have a 9" from an Econoline. It's 1/4" wider than the OG rear. If I was gonna keep it Ford powered, the flathead and 3speed OD would have stayed. It's getting a '63 Buick 401 Nailhead. It's already built & waiting. Now, WHY ARE YOU YELLING AT ME?

 

Did 1953-55 F-100 guy forget what sight he's on or is he just checking to see if anyone is paying attention?

 

I THOUGHT YOU WERE HARD OF HEARING DAVE MAYBE THATS WHY HES YELLING

 

@cshades Too many years of being on stage has taken its toll on my hearing, but he doesn't know that.

Unnecessary, yes. But this looks more finished to me. $5 worth of stainless tubing from Amazon and about 20 minutes of cutting and deburring gets you this:

 

Progress. Should be sitting on 4 wheels sometime next week. Gonna be too cold to be in the shop this weekend.

 

So, I ordered off of eBay, a pair of upper A-arm bump stops. The listing said it fits Merc. But they are made for a shoebox Ford and are too small for the hole in the frame. Gluing it in seemed like a bad idea, but it's what the seller suggested after I emailed them. I ***ume if it ever did hit the stop, it would fall off and be rolling down the road. I'll be returning those, and he agreed to change his listing to reflect the facts. So, my new plan is this:

Smaller washer (3/8") was trimmed on the bench grinder to fit in the hole in the frame and then welded to the larger washer (1/2"). Pushed into the hole in the frame from the bottom side, the large washer keeps it from pulling through, and the smaller one keeps it in place. I'll just bolt a Fox body Mustang bumper onto it. It's my go-to for bump stops. I used them on my old '63 Chevy wagon project and on the lower A-arms on this one.
Welded & painted:

I don't have a lathe for things like this, so expect function over form. It will work.

 

The bump stops showed up. My washer fix seems to work. It would have been easier to do it before the springs were in, but whatever. Waiting for shocks, then I'll need to start figuring out the steering linkage and sway bar. I did use coil spring isolaters to keep the squeaks down. There's nobody repoping those. Used Galaxie uppers and I think M2 lowers. There's no info/directions/recommendations from CPP as to what the front parts were designed around, so I'm just guessing.

 

The Red had me a little distracted for a bit, then looking just to the right I notice what may be the head of a ****on head bolt not square to what looks like an adjoining part. Upper arm is painted Black, and ball joint bracket is bare metal I believe. Why is that bolt head not square to the plate? Maybe my eyes aren't really seeing what I think I'm looking at?

 

@Pist-n-Broke I didn't design those A-arms. They're Cl***ic Performance Products. I noticed the same thing. I can't give a real-world ***essment of them yet, as this is a long way from being driven, but I can say that they have ZERO info & support on these products. I contacted the company, and they sent me a YouTube link to a guy using them on a build. He was *****ing about the same thing - no directions, no info, no support. He was also bagging his, so not much was going to be the same. I'll look closer at it.
I also loosely bolted the stock steering linkage back on, just to see if it would work with the new spindles & steering box. I was certain that the tie rods were way too long, but I think they might work. I'll possibly have to shorten the outer tie rods a bit and extend the threads, to get the toe adjustment correct, but I'm confident it will work. Now, to find some new replacement parts.

 

I know nothing about the products you're using. I hope the combination of mix-n-match products you're using work as a good package when you're done. What I was trying to carefully point out is that there is not sufficient Clamping Force at that hardware point when the bolt head isn't square to the plate. It also looks like the unpainted bracket itself isn't flush and seated properly to the Black painted A arm's surface plate. That combination could be a total disaster first time you really anchor the Brakes. Those kinds of issues should be taken very seriously while under construction. The Fact that " Cl***ic Performance Products" has no concern about how their product works for you is no real surprise in today's 1-800 parts suppliers. Once they have your Visa number the rest is often up to the Builder to make things work as a package.

 

@Pist-n-Broke I dug into that ****on head bolt situation. It was just a bit too long for the application. I replaced it with a shorter gr8 hex head, and all is well. The opposite side has the ****on head & it works. I think the difference is the weld may be a little thicker on one side, causing it to bottom out & not seat properly. It doesn't build my confidence in CPP products but looks as though it's fine now.

Did some measuring & digging around the web to determine which shocks and came up with 2010 Ram. Bolted right up. Got some new steering parts on order. Moving forward.

 

If you are an engineer, I'm looking for some re***urance on what I'm doing for the steering linkage. With the steering box centered and the pitman arm indexed the center link wasn't centered in the frame. I'm sure if I adjusted the tie rods, I could get the toe correct. However, I'm ***uming the inner tie rod pivots should be as close to the lower A arm pivot points as possible, while going straight. And unequal length tie rods may cause some geometry issues while turning. Just guessing here.
So, to correct this, I filed the splines in the pitman arm to make it infinitely adjustable. Now- steering box centered (as close as I can get), center link centered (measured to frame on each side), clock the pitman arm to line up with the center link. This feels as correct as I will be able to get this. With my combination of stock steering linkage, with a newer power box and newer spindles, there isn't much adjustment left on the tie rods. I have them pretty much as short as I can get them, and it's looking like I'm toed out some. Should be enough to adjust the toe correctly, but I'm considering cutting some length off the outer tie rod threads, and cutting the length of the adjuster sleeves, just to get more adjustability. It's probably not necessary but feels more "correct." The new adjuster sleeves (ordered for a '49 Merc) are about 1/4" longer than the stock ones.
And the clearance between the left side inner tie rod and the pitman arm is too close in my opinion (hard to tell from this pic), so I'm considering putting a little more bend in that tie rod. That would gain clearance and essentially shorten that tie rod a small amount. Both would make me happy. Does this sound/look correct? Here's a pic of everything installed:

 

Here's a list of what I used:
Outer tie rods Moog ES416L - Rockauto
Adjuster sleeves Moog ES2004S - Rockauto
Inner tie rods 8M3280 - C&G Ford Parts
Center Link Moog ES504 - eBay
Idler arm P18502 - Kanter #1A18502
You'll have to dig around the web for best prices, and what's in stock. I don't think the center link is being made anymore. I got lucky and found an NOS one on eBay and it had a Speedway tag on it. Maybe the original one can be rebuilt with a new ball joint, but I've never done that.
I see why people do the upgraded steering linkage kit. The original Idler arm set up is old technology. Looks like it could wear out faster than a ball joint type. ***uming this won't get 20k mi/year, I'm feeling good about what I used. And I saved some money as well. The $550 price on the upgraded kit scared me a little.

 

I'm not an engineer, but it sounds like you have it right.

 

Well something you haven't addressed but should. Ackerman. Something few ever address and most don't even know what it is. Google search it and you will soon find out you shouldn't change the connecting tie-rod but probably the actual steering arms themself. This is what makes the car turn without tire scrub and fighting to come back to center while in a turn. Short version, the issue actually lies in the replacement steering arm tie rod end receiver. There are good drawings explaining this online. I tried to copy and paste but it wouldn't let me paste the actual drawings.

 

On second look at the photo 1pickup posted I see that ch***is has hand built tubular lower control arms. You may be headed the right direction depending on the location of the lower ball joint in that A-Frame compared to stock location. Lay out the Ackerman lines and you'll get it figured out.

 

@Pist-n-Broke I was a circle track racer in the late 80s-early90s, so I have a little knowledge of Ackerman. I also know that the perfect geometry doesn't really exist, as it's all a compromise. I thought this thing drove pretty good in stock form but was looking to make it ride & steer as good as I could, without buying an aftermarket frame (and keeping the costs somewhat reasonable). The reason for the new A arms was to use a ball joint instead of the uprights to hopefully get a smoother ride. And the ease of adding upgraded brakes. I'll look into it.

 

I was unaware of your background. Sounds like you should have a good handle on things. I agree with most upgrades when it comes to steering and brakes. My personal Merc has gone through many changes and is once again getting some attention and has been in pieces for way too long. I really miss driving it. Retirement hasn't been exactly what I was expecting.

 

So, I tweaked the inner tie rod a little on my 20-ton press, and It's clearing better. With everything bolted up (loosely), it's looking like it will be fine. However, I'm now putting a small notch in the frame under the steering box, as the pitman arm was being limited while turning to the right. I think I have this on the run. While I was using the press, I put new bearings on the axle shafts too. Progress.