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Technical Frame Mount Side Mounts for SBC's

Discussion in 'The Hokey Ass Message Board' started by Scotch Buzzard King, Dec 5, 2025.

  1. Everything I see online that's universal for frame mounted side mounts to a Small Block Chevy I don't like.

    What have you guys made in your garage to side mount a Chevy? I'd love to see some pictures.
     
  2. krylon32
    Joined: Jan 29, 2006
    Posts: 10,914

    krylon32
    ALLIANCE MEMBER
    from Nebraska

    I've used most styles over the last 40+ years in the ch***is business. The majority used the simple weld on side mounts from P&J's that use the factory rubber mounts. I also used quite a few of the tubular mounts that Heidts supplies. Lately I've started using the mounts that use the early Ford biscuits for a cushion. I get mine from Roadster Supply. The biscuits have metal band around them so they don't squish down.
     
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  3. Mr48chev
    Joined: Dec 28, 2007
    Posts: 36,054

    Mr48chev
    ALLIANCE MEMBER

    Made myself? Nothing pretty enough to show on here.
    You have to put your visualization cap on as these are for my 292 in my 48 but could be knocked out in one's home shop with minimum tools for a V8 you just have to cut the angles for the V8 on the piece that runs out from the plate that bolts to the block . This uses a Ford Biscuit mount and a similar tab on the frame. These came from Ch***is engineering inc and were some of the last parts the family sold before Heidts bought the company. Actually I think they were shipped after the company sold. They had them in their close out for 15 dollars and gas to go get the steel and the steel at the place that sells small pieces would be more than that if one doesn't have the metal laying around.
    [​IMG]
    These photos are looking at the bottom sides of the mounts.
    [​IMG]

    [​IMG]

    I saw this on a T bucket back in 2007 and it is simple and clean.
    [​IMG]

    [​IMG]
     
  4. SBC. 51 merc ch***is. Useszfkathead biscuits
    IMG_9991.jpeg IMG_9994.jpeg
     
    Last edited: Dec 5, 2025
  5. I've got a couple of versions of the biscuit mounts. My problem always came down to the biscuits. They go out of their way to make a great mount and then cheap out on the biscuit.
     
  6. 29Sleeper
    Joined: Oct 25, 2023
    Posts: 534

    29Sleeper
    Member
    from SoCal

    +1 - get a hot melt glue gun and some cardboard to prototype what you want then cut from 1/4 plate and weld.
     
  7. mad mikey
    Joined: Dec 22, 2013
    Posts: 9,467

    mad mikey
    Member

    Mine , built not bought. 1/4 steel plate with lightning holes on the sides, solid mount on my monster. Wish I had a more detailed picture, to cold to go out to the shop right now. WIN_20240517_17_36_14_Pro.jpg
     

    Attached Files:

  8. Mr48chev
    Joined: Dec 28, 2007
    Posts: 36,054

    Mr48chev
    ALLIANCE MEMBER

    They aren't that difficult to build but you have to have the patience to do it right. The hard part is cutting the thicker plate that bolts to the block nice and neat if you don't have access to a plasma cutter. Someone with a plasma table could probably cut those plates out of shop s**** sheets that production items were cut out of and sell them in pairs on Ebay for well under 20 bucks and make a decent profit selling several pair a week to those of us who don't have decent equpment to make them.

    Or do something like these Moroso solid mounts that replaced the factory rubber mounts for the drag racers who wanted solid mounts but build the piece that runs over to the frame and use tubing and bushings rather than mounting it solid.
    Screenshot (2127).png
     
    Last edited: Dec 5, 2025
    tractorguy likes this.
  9. krylon32
    Joined: Jan 29, 2006
    Posts: 10,914

    krylon32
    ALLIANCE MEMBER
    from Nebraska

    When I started the ch***is business I built all my own parts but learned that plan was eating up my production time. I found that by the time I bought the material took it to a good plasma cutter (not many lasers back then) drive time etc. it was just simpler to buy ready made parts. I'm not cutting down anyone making their own but time, consistency and quality was an important factor to me.
     
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  10. Mr48chev
    Joined: Dec 28, 2007
    Posts: 36,054

    Mr48chev
    ALLIANCE MEMBER

    I tried to convince a buddy of mine who had a hotrod/custom shop of that years ago and he still would spend hours making or modifying a part he could buy for what amouts for pocket change because he wanted to say that he built it. You don't spend five hours building a 20 dollar part when you can turn out 500 dollars worth of actual work in that time and sell the part for 50% over what you paid for it and have a productive day.

    For the home DIY guy it is SS spent vs the time it takes you make a part and how much shop time you actually have available. I can go out and work all day until I am too tired to work if I want to and a couple of hours extra to make something don't mean a lot but I have buddies who's time out in the garage is limited and prescious and a bought part sitting there in a box on the bench or several parts in boxes turn a get one thing done day or evening into an accomplished a bunch evening or day.
     
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  11. gimpyshotrods
    Joined: May 20, 2009
    Posts: 24,559

    gimpyshotrods
    ALLIANCE MEMBER

    The biscuits from SoCal Speed Shop are better.
     
  12. Mr48chev
    Joined: Dec 28, 2007
    Posts: 36,054

    Mr48chev
    ALLIANCE MEMBER

    Ford style Biscuits vary in quality quite a bit. I've also used tri 5 Chevy engine mount biscuits for a lot of things. Dirt cheap even at the local parts house though.
     
    Scotch Buzzard King likes this.
  13. krylon32
    Joined: Jan 29, 2006
    Posts: 10,914

    krylon32
    ALLIANCE MEMBER
    from Nebraska

    The biscuit mounts from Roadster Supply use the better metal wrapped biscuits gimpy is talking about. I've used quite a few pairs with no problems later.
     
  14. To me, it looks like the So-Cal biscuit and the Roadster Supply biscuit might share the same concept: the reinforcement band. Looks like good stuff either way.

    Horton Hot Rods in Canada uses this kind of mount for a biscuit:

    532635836.jpg

    I like this design because it looks like it can hold up to some abuse. The only problem there is the stupid tariffs. Horton has it listed on his website that if the tariffs are too high, he'll just refund your money.

    They get us hooked on foreign made stuff and then they punish us for buying it. It's so stupid.
     
    Algoma56 likes this.
  15. Blue Moon Garage
    Joined: Mar 1, 2009
    Posts: 515

    Blue Moon Garage
    Member

    What have you guys made in your garage to side mount a Chevy? I'd love to see some pictures.

    IMG_1636.JPG
     
    mad mikey likes this.
  16. DDDenny
    Joined: Feb 6, 2015
    Posts: 22,588

    DDDenny
    Member
    from oregon

    20161106_120810.jpg

    20161107_010143.jpg
     
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  17. bchctybob
    Joined: Sep 18, 2011
    Posts: 6,102

    bchctybob
    Member

    Not a great picture.
    1/4” triangle plate on the block, 1”x2” box tube tapered to a common rod end and bushing, between two 1/4” brackets welded to the frame.
    IMG_3821.jpeg
     
    mad mikey likes this.
  18. pprather
    Joined: Jan 10, 2007
    Posts: 9,017

    pprather
    Member

    I have @krylon32 frame with P&J frame mounts with the stock SBC engine mounts.
    Good result with minimal engine vibration transferred to the frame.
     
    mad mikey likes this.
  19. 1971BB427
    Joined: Mar 6, 2010
    Posts: 9,844

    1971BB427
    Member
    from Oregon

    I've never bought any aftermarket side mounts. I just use either stock motor mounts, or solid Moroso motor mounts, and then use plate or box tubing with some heavy wall tube stock for the through bolt. I locate the engine in the ch***is with motor mounts on it and the piece of sleeve fitted to the motor mounts. Then using box tubing or plate I tack pieces to the steel sleeve that fit over to the frame. Once it's all tacked together I lift the engine back out and take the mounts to the welding bench to burn them in. Then back in the car and lower the engine down with the mounts on it and weld them to the frame. Only takes an hour or so to fabricate a pair of mounts.
    The only picture I have, but not quite finished. I added one more plate over the top of the frame rail that extends out to the end of the box tubing for more rigidity.
    [​IMG]
     
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  20. rockable
    Joined: Dec 21, 2009
    Posts: 5,128

    rockable
    ALLIANCE MEMBER

  21. Last edited: Dec 6, 2025
  22. 48stude
    Joined: Jul 31, 2004
    Posts: 1,382

    48stude
    Member

    This is the set up on I'm using my T project.
    IMG_1480.JPG
     
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  23. TA DAD
    Joined: Mar 2, 2014
    Posts: 1,625

    TA DAD
    Member
    from NC

    Allstar Performance (https://allstarperformance.com/search-results-page?q=motor mounts) has some nice mounts, I think all of them are solid but you could add some rubber. They also come in different offsets allowing the motor to be slid forward or rearward. This old Studebaker is mounted solid but it is smooth as gl***. IMG_0079.JPG
     
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  25. swade41
    Joined: Apr 6, 2004
    Posts: 14,529

    swade41
    Member
    from Buffalo,NY

    I had the banded biscuits in my 41, when I stepped up the power I had a club member whittle these up.

    Screenshot_20201122-123757_Gallery.jpg
     
  26. That's a great idea actually.
     
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  27. olscrounger
    Joined: Feb 23, 2008
    Posts: 4,840

    olscrounger
    ALLIANCE MEMBER

    I used CE on most of the 40's we did--no problems. Still have a new set somewhere
     
    Scotch Buzzard King likes this.
  28. Ch***is Engineering (Heidts) for the win. Part Number CS-1122OOS.

    Clears the fuel pump, offsets the mount forward 1-3/4 inches, and it's fully tig welded.

    20251211_185759.jpg
    20251211_185844.jpg
     
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