Hot Rods 1934 Willys Sedan to Ute build

Willys Ute Aussie firewalls were not the same at ones in the states. They were much boxier and flatter.

 

Wow, that is way cool, and with a 34 to boot. Those cars are very rare. I love their hood sides.

 

I haven’t made as much progress this spring as I would like. I had a surgery that took me out of commission for about 5 weeks, graduation parties and mowing 5 acres every 3-4 days has slowed progress.

I want to run a 2x2 intake on this. With the Nicson intake being super rare and for a 265 I decided to make my own. Anderson built one from a dual plane intake and a 471 carb adapter. I am going a little different route with mine. I took a Edelbrock C26 dual 4 intake and made some slugs to fill the holes. I am going to run Rochester 2cg’s on it. Next up is to hand it off to my machinist buddy and we will remove anything that doesn’t look like a 2cg base. I will then weld up where he machined into where the slugs are and then blend it all and use a needler on it.

 

I always liked the Hudson Hornet dual carb air filters. I found that the v8 Studebaker housings had the 2 5/16 openings. Got one bought and found it to be awfully big for the size of engine compartment so I cut out the extension piece. It took me a little bit to locate a second one but they are both modified now. I would like to get them chromed along with my stamped valve covers one I modify them for pvc.
Next on the to due is get the firewall and trans tunnel made up so I can mount my steering column.

 

I was finally able to get back on this project late fall. I picked up and mid 80’s Ranger bench seat and narrowed it 8” and ended up cutting a bunch of the framework to get the seat down low enough to not be looking out of the top of the windshield.
I modified the stock Willys shifter and mounted it to the T5. It may end up getting a double bend in it. I want to get the firewall in and locate the gas pedal before I decide final seat and shifter position.

I took the stock e brake handle and shortened it and plated a couple pieces and went ahead and powder coated it. I have it mounted to the T5 as well.

 

This weekend I spent working on the firewall. I am going to correct the bead details in the firewall before I weld on the new lower. The cuts are a little weird as I was trying to save as much of the bead detail incase I would be able to use them to connect the left and right beads. I am just going to bring both sides to a point once I have that done I will make the final cuts and start to weld it up.
I made an access hole so that I could pull my oil pump drive incase I ever need to pull the intake. I’ll make an oval cover to screw down to cap it off. The drive is halfway out in this photo.

 

What am I missing here? You made a plug for the distributor hole. Are you running a front distributor drive?

 

I didn’t want a huge notch in the firewall for the dist so I cut up this old HEI. I am going to run an MSD ign box with individual coils. It will get a crank and cam sensor on the timing chain cover.

 

That intake doesn’t look like it would flow very well.

 

Thats awesome. I like it. I had the same problem with my austin healey. I solved mine with a front distributor drive, but I like your solution.

 

Undoubtedly this will flow less than it’s original design. this is my attempt of a 2x2 intake. SamIam and Anderson made theirs using a single carb intake and weld a blower adapter to it. Both of theirs turned out amazing
So far we machined these slugs to each port diameter and height of each runner and welded them in. Next up is to machine the new openings and then remove everything else that doesn’t look like the 2cg base. I’m going to have a logo machined into the intake in the style of the Nicson one in the pic but with my last name(Crooks Engineering) or something similar where the Edelbrock logo is. Then finish it up with a bunch of time behind the needle scaler. Im hoping that my machinist buddy can make some progress this winter. He’s been busy building himself a new shop/home this past year.

 

That’s a neat piece!
I’m trying to save as much room under the hood in this as I can. I thought about running a remote water pump but didn’t want to use electric and thought about a marine pump(freshwater)- but found the propellers wouldn’t hold up to the heat or antifreeze. I was also thinking about a shaft driven one to run a remote pump like some of the 20’s cars used but in the end i used a sbc short pump and found that a 6 cyl Ford (300) water pump pulley is the same diameter and has the same bolt pattern but is almost 1/2” shallower than the sbc. I just pressed the flange on deeper and saved 1/2”.

 

You have done your homework. I cant wait to see the final outcome.