BB, my understand is the 4 lb pressure system will allow the system to run 12 degrees hotter before boiling. How does the pressure make it cooler? How exactly does the posi-trac rear end on a Plymouth work? I am not a scientist but the boiling point of water is not a set number, water boils at a lower temperature in Denver because of the al***ude and the low pressure it creates. At sea level, or below it like Death Valley water boils at a much higher temperature because the ambient pressure is greater. It works on your stove too, a pressure cooker allows the water to boil at a higher temperature than it would in an open kettle allowing food to cook faster. I know it has a scientific reason, something to do with molecular binding of atoms or something, but it works. Pressurized water boils at a higher temperature. Like that posi, it just does.
Not really familiar with '54 Chev radiators but is it a pressurized system or just vented to the atmosphere? If it isn't pressurized, it will boil at 212 degrees F. Doesn't matter what rating on the cap.
Maybe it's a stupid question, and probably it is, but anyway...: I bought the Chevy in 1998 and never had overflowing problems. I recently converted from 6V to 12V the elctr. system on the Chevy. Can this somehow be connected with the overflowing ??.....
I checked on google, with AI. Look: "Yes, the 1954 Chevy's radiator system is pressurized, using a radiator cap (often 4-7 PSI for these cl***ic models) to hold pressure, which raises the coolant's boiling point and improves cooling efficiency, though original systems used an overflow rather than a modern recovery tank. Pressurization: The cooling system relies on the radiator cap to maintain pressure, preventing the coolant from boiling at lower temperatures. Cap Pressure: Original or replacement caps for these vintage Chevys typically have a rating of around 4 PSI (for trucks) or 7 PSI (for cars like the Bel Air), depending on the specific model and transmission."
We will never know with all the stuff you have done, but it could be all that was wrong with your car may have been just a bad radiator cap.
When you converted from the 6 volt electrical system to the 12 volt system, did you change the generator or alternator? If you did, is it possible the belt the drives the water pump was not tight? A slipping water pump belt can cause the motor to over heat. That would be about the only thing I can think of where changing from 6 volt electrical system to a 12 volt system could cause your car to over heat.
Anyway, I actually didn't think about the radiator cap.. As I said, I always had this radiator cap without even the spring...but never had overflowing problems. Maybe the radiator itself is clogged. They're checking it.
Hey, Alberto! I remember you and your Chevy from the early days of the Senigallia festival! How are you doing, besides the Chevy? Hope all is well for you! As it´s been already stated the correct cap and a good radiator along with a working thermostat is usually all it takes to cool your 235, but I did have trouble keeping my 55 235 cool when I got it in 2015. I reverse flushed the radiator which helped a bit, but the real improvement came from flushing the block. It was filled with sediment. There´s a drain plug on the rear driver´s side of the block, just above the oil gallery. When I removed my plug, there was not a drop of water coming out, I poked into it with a screwdriver, only mud and sand came out. I put a garden hose into the thermostat housing ( T-Stat removed) and hit the block with compressed air through the drain plug hole. What a mess that was, but after that I had a sand pit in my driveway and the car never overheated again. Keep us updated and Merry X-Mas to Bella Italia!
Hey Baumi !! What a pleasure hearin' form you !! Yes, all ok over here. I hope you're fine too ! Good ol' days in Senigallia... It's very different now.... Anyway, thanks so much for your adice, about the drain-plug...thanks !! All the best to you and have a good ROCKIN' XMAS !!!!
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