Featured Technical Original 1932 Ford frame repair

Hi. I repair an original 32 frame which had a collision. I need some information from jig owners or anyone could help.

Is there some difference between frames ?
On the diagram, at the front cross member, I should have 4’’ 7/8 between the bottom of the rail and the baseline. Mine has minder than that. About 1in minder.

Thanks !

 

Does minder =less?
All frames should be the same. Looking at the dimensions the height at the top of the rails near the front crossmember should be 1-1/2 inches above the top of the rails in the centre section.

 

Yes Mart sorry. I ment less

 

I guess its bent
I’ve got one with the left rail probably 3-4 inches up with a buckle at the cowl
As soon as we get all the ugly boxing plates removed we will pull it down.

 

PM sent.

 

I would note that it shows that measurement with the belly of the rail “flat” on the ground and the frame horns hanging in the air. I could see sitting it so the horns touch the ground and that would skew that dimension.

 

The rear horns are 2 1/4
The front left is 2 1/8 and the right side is about 2 3/8 in.
The frame is at my workshop, I can only exctly check it on monday.

 

That’s a nice bench

used em a few times

would be super EZ to clamp down on that

 

When I look at that schematic I might wonder if the 4 7/8 is the bottom of the frame or the spring mount height on the bottom of the crossmember.

 

Harold, the tips of the front horns are higher than standard, but the middle of the arch is lower? That sounds like any bends in the area should be rather extreme, and visible to the eye. Unless the diagram is incorrect as you suspect.

 

I agree. The way the drawing is laid out suggests that is the dimension to the crossmember, not the frame rail.

 

The crossmember is its own elevation drawing. Math is required to arrive to it’s own distance from lowest horizontal reference line up.

 

I'd say you need for Krylon32 to see the thread and add his input. He is one of the Hamb 32 Ford Ch***is gurus.

 

I have a copy of the original blue print. Let me see if I can find it to confirm the diagram mentioned is correct. Give me a little bit

 

@krylon32 to the white courtesy phone

 

I asked Krylon32 to help but he said he can’t this time

 

I was figuring that he might see something that was not quite right or have a better way of checking.

 

Here's one put out by Wescott's for what it's worth.

-

 

When I built my 32 specific frame jig I took measurements from 3 different original frames and compared them to both the Wescott and Cruisin Products drawings. Very few agreed dead nuts. I went with kind of the average, leaning more towards what I got off my frames since I don't know how many frames the drawing creators used.
Right now I have a pair of new ASC rails in there. The measurement from the bottom of the rails to the center of the front spreader bar bolt is 3 5/8" which almost matches your RH frame horn picture.
Is that exactly what Henry's designers wanted....IDK. But it's what mine measures.

 

Ok. I took better measurement.

The kick up on the right side measure 4 7/8 as it should.
The left one is 4 5/8.

at the bottom of the left horn, I have 2 1/8
The right one 2 1/2.

 

Another Blue plant drawing I use but I still think it does not help you with the horn height

 

We put the body on the frame.
It’s a swedish steel roadster.
Another issue is the giant (about 2 in) gap between the top of the tank and the bottom of the body.
I believe, I’ll heat and bend the frame in the kick up area.
The frame will not be in the spec anymore but matching the body.
Just worried about the rear crossmember angle.

 

@HaroldDegand
Rear body mount / subframe Does Not set flat on frame,
There supposed to be a gap,
That rear body mount bolt is a adjustment for doors

 

I'd say your gap is a bit much. Granted, I don't know anything about Swedish roadsters...

3blap.

 

I'm not seeing heating and bending the frame to close that gap a little is going to work. I can see a small pie cut working though. There's a challenge for ya', prove me wrong with your fancy alignment jig!!

Chris

 

The frame and frame rails look fine on the frame table.

Is this roadster body an aftermarket body? If so, I think I would add a spacer under the tank mounting surface and cut the body to tank gap in half, at least.

3blap.

 

Don't forget room for the gas sender and fuel pickup when positioning body over gas tank. What 19Eddy30 said is very important. Good to see you are using a frame machine. You'll get it right on that.

 

The top of the deuce frame has a "belly", yes? (hence the need for a wood spacer when putting an A body on it).

Does the bottom also have a belly??

 

Hi Mart I haven't seen you on the Hamb in a long time.
Spec.

 

Look at post #538 on my 5w build thread

https://www.jalopyjournal.com/forum...eet-body-the-old-chrome-coupe.1284710/page-18