Featured Technical Radiator core shortening- Can it be done?

Received all my 60/40 solder and flux. Let’s do this.

 

Is the video up yet?!

 

Giddyup!

 

Not yet. I’ll get cracking this weekend!

 

Before you start you should consider how to hold the core. A friend who owned his own radiator shop then retired is helping me with the radiator for my project. He insisted I have a way to hold and tilt the core as you solder. This is what I came up with. Old engine stand with homemade core holder. Good luck.

 

Do like 62pan suggests. If you rotate the core 90 degrees, gravity ***ists you as the solder will flow downward along the header.

 

Are there no longer radiator shops in OZ?
How about auto restoration shops that restore br*** era cars?

 

Incredible setup. I may even build something similar, I used the large Vice and a couple pieces of form-ply. Seems to work.

 

Well I’ve successfully removed the side straps, lower mount, tank and header plate.
All in good shape, kept the heat moving and was able to get it all removed without any hiccups.
Question is, I’m not sure weather ALL the solder residue needs to be removed, I blasted it but there still solder. Getting the header plate to line back up will be another thing!

 

So far, so good!

 

-excellent!!--for some reason,i was thinking you would cut the core while it was all together.but can't really tell

 

Lookin' good man.

 

Shorten the core with the bandsaw, melt the excess solder off the header, tap it in place on the core and solder it back with the torch in one hand and the solder in the other across the top row of tubes and then onto the next row. The solder will flow somewhat into the lower tubes due to gravity and flow around the tubes.

 

Damned good work so far!

-rick

 

Im surprised the bare foot India radiator repair guy wasn't chain smoking cigarettes too
Or is hat just the barefoot Asian radiator guys that smoke

 

I had considered taking it up to get the job done. Hahah

 

Day 2. Successfully cleaned and blasted header and tank. I straightened them out for the best after they moved a lot over the heat. I cut the core and moved the fins back. Now I think I I need to clean the tubes more before anything happens

 

Top notch work....as usual! This is where "tedious" starts.

 

When you took it apart, were the end rows plugged? They usually are. If so, repeat. Tin the tank before sticking it back on.

 

I really like the "roll up your sleeves - how tough can this be - get in there and do it" at***ude and approach to this potentially daunting task!

Good on ya! And, thanks for sharing...we'll all get to learn something.

 

What type of saw was used to cut the core, it left a really clean cut. I was expecting to see the tubes mangled, but the look really clean.

 

Very nice slice! Could use the left over for a heater core lol.

 

Awesome job

 

Thinking about this. Maybe do the whole thing?

 

Used a 1mm cutting blade and made sure to hold it square and took my time. Worked perfectly with almost no burs, the cores are pretty solid which is a good thing.
Bandsaw was my first thought but the bi-metal blade was still to course and was worried about catching and pulling the fins

 

Did the exact same thing

 

@jordabennett , Nice job so far ,
Me Have don this 40 years ago ,
To me the Hardest part is tube plate .
What Process to solder all the tubes to the tank plate are you going to use?
Micro torch 's , I think a better option
Then small tip torch set ,Victor ect.
Or the Bath of Multing solder to dip all @ wants .
On aluminum there's epoxy being used do not know if copper and br*** compatible,

 

The solder bathtub that Johnson’s uses in their video looks like the best way. Can you set up something like that? Maybe make a tray that sets on top of your casting furnace?

 

I was going to offer some considerations to the conversation. Stuff they don't mention or talk about. In no particular order. If you're going to solder a rad, I'd consider this...
1)Flame temperature. Depending on the gas, mixed with air, you can notice a big difference in the flame temperature and how it varies by the flame appearance depending on the tips shape and size. Propane and air may not be the best choice over acetylene and oxygen for a reason.
2)Temperature control is adjusted in a couple of way and one of them is avoiding a harsh flame from excessive gas flow.
3)Flame shape and gas velocity...yeah you blow that solder all over the place if it get to fluid just with the flame, as well excessive heats tend to burn low melting alloys.
4)Melting temperatures. Solders melt around 4-600 degrees F depending on alloy mix, although 840 is the cut off between solder and brazing according to most sources. The range of solid to liquid is what's controlled.
5)BTU's...how much heat is released by the flame and where. Another reason Acetylene and oxygen gets most votes, but again think of the tip and the flame it produces. Most have a swedge tip (pointy) and need a bibulous (round) the later offering a softer flame.
6)And about those melting temperatures, it's not uncommon to get a lower to higher melting temp solders to avoid remelting the core when doing a tank. Not saying you have to but it all depends on how well you control the torch to control heat input.
7) Proper flux /tinning compound for the solder used. remembering it's purpose if not only cleaning, aid to flow, but also a visual tool to help control heat input by it's changes when heated.


Don't worry about the numbers, it's velocity, the colors make the point.

I hope it turns out well for you, because it is looking like it's going to.

 

Well. So far so good! Header plate took a little persuasion to get on but was able to line it all up and slowly work it home. After the I used a small chisel and modified it to fit the ID of the tube and lightly tap it, helping keep everything thing, Will the radiator vertical and just off set this allowed me to work across each row and more from top to bottom. After soldering 200 tubes and flipping the rad to to achieve the same process. I used soapy water the the air hose to see if there was any leaks in the header player.. 2 small pins hole. Cleaned and rectified.
We
The tank was a similar process making sure everything was clean. No solder on inside edges and went smoothly. I added a fair bit of solder as I plan on driving this guy hard. So call it a bit of extra insurance!
Side plates and base plate next!