Projects Prefect / Willys /Kadett/Thames Gasser Build.

Ok tubes equalized at collector. Had to torch weld/braze. Used mild steel. As in soft tie wire like we always did for used /less tha perfectly clean tubing. Painted them while hot. I doubt it will come off. Lol]

 

Other header complete. ( back 3 ) collector is not fully welded but is in correct position. have two welds I need to burn back in deeper.
overall pleased. As it turns out the primaries are pretty close in length within an inch on all but one -2 inches. This set of tubes was super contaminated. So I had to turn the heat/flame up a little more. Need to clean up and air test. then paint.
Again considering it’s two sets of headers making one I think they turned out decent-considering I did put collectors back on.

 

Finished the headers up today. Cleaned up and inspected. Finished the welds on the collector. Purged and rewelded two tubes. Then heated and painted while hot so it sticks.
pretty pleased. Clears everything and even looks pretty symmetrical. Looks correct under the front cap.

 

Front plates and mounts completed. Need to be belt sanded and cleaned up and painted. I will also weld a perimeter edge/using 3/4 flat bar. Will guarantee no lateral for and aft.
Rear set is next. They will be a similar set up. The perimeter will be reinforced with flat bar as well.

 

Thanks for keeping us updated, well done for persisting on these cars. They are looking good!

 

Thanks for the compliments. Build all you can while you can.

 

So I must have missed out on a lot of details on your kadette I recently picked up a 66 kadette and after I get my fuel coupe put together I’ll start on that however what engine and trans are you using in it and what front suspension is in it I see the back half has coil overs and nice work on the tin you built for it I’m asking so I can be thinking about how will build mine in the future

 

Front axle is a 4 inch drop. It’s a speed way/Rons Pope set up don’t remember which. I recommend Ron as he can narrow to any width. As can Bill at Wack Axle. He did the Axle for the Up coming change to the Thames.
As to power it’s all on engine plates /mid/front and rear. Reason is once trans centerline and drive angles are established the engine with correct plate can be changed with ease. Proof. When Mick was alive it Had 392 hilborn injected and a clutch turbo.A guy came in from nowhere and bought out my entire heard of elephants/ even my Donavan at my price.So it went on hold. Bill Johnston decided he wanted to race again and put his BBC injected into it /then changed to sbc injected. Bill p***ed before he finished it.
Wes Gray is now the care taker. And he is leaving as a sbc hilborn /glide set up.
My recommendation is set drive line /trans to Rearend and use mid plates set to you angles snd ch***is. And you never have to change much.
Steering is the stock Opel rack /set up as a cross steer. But this is a tube ch***is. The stock ch***is is Probobly capable of a sbc but the front suspension will have to go. The headers for the hemi were sold when that idea changed. Mick had 60 hours in that set. They were unbelievable. BBC /sbc headers are easy. To kill bottom end zoomies do the job and are usually cheaper. Mick did full collectors etc in hemi and it was labor intensive.
Go back to the front part of the build and you will see the details.
Actually I deleted those photos so I put a few of them back up here.

 

Here are the pics from that era.
slso this Round of changes will include hand controls for Wes

 

Notice how other than front motor plate nothing changed. Also for the record the little round amber turn signal lenses hsve 1964 on them.

 

The prefect is set up the same way. It was actually fitted for a hemi as well.

 

Ok work on Prefect today. Rear mid- plate for six is completely welded and fitted. Notice I trimmed the extra **** off of it. I will weld flat feet to the front. And drill for the gusseted tabs.

 

that final pic evokes a 'modern day' henry j!--nice

 

Thanks for the info and the pics I too will probly build a ch***is as it will be much easier in the long run thanks for the pics as well I looked back and couldn’t seem to find any now I know why lol the kadette is awesome now back to the show sorry for the interruption lol carry on with the prefect as I have one of those too lol

 

Rear /mid plate tabs drilled and tacked into place. I’ll finish welding when I pull the engine for pan swap and clean up.
Everything will get a clean up and final coat of paint. Intact welded the washers in place so they can’t fall out of place. I hate hunting for things.

 

I also welded pads or feet so the plate doesn’t dig into the frame. I’ll clean up the welds also. It was cold today. I have had steadier hand days.

 

Got the mounting plate for the Corvair box on the Thames in. I can use it to mount it reverse or stock style which is what I am looking at.

 

Had some visitors today. The louver press left with them. I don’t use it hardly ever and I need the room on that side of the shop free. Everyone left happy.
Did some planning for the Kadett the hand brakes and controls for Wes. All I’ll say is it’s going to be set up for Wes.

 

Ok. Stayed inside today ( small shop ) stayed warm and worked on the Thames.
Steering box is going to fall into place perfectly.
Mounting plate /etc is going to be perfect.
Also will work as a cross steer whether coil over or transverse. Pitman arm will be turned 180. No need to reverse the box and the cross link etc is all behind the axle for a cleaner look.

 

Cleaned up the Corsair steering box. I also used a pitman arm puller and some heat to get the pitman arm off.
I need the arm 180 from original. So it will work with the cross steer behind the axle.
Also got lucky in the fact that the wide splines are exactly 90 degrees apart. And the allowed it to be rotated perfectly to the needed position.
Once mounting plate is welded into place and holes drilled and tapped it will literally bolt in like factory and give a perfect cross steering set up for the Thames.

 

Uh Axle mock up. Looks like I’ll be staying with the transverse front spring. I see no reason not to. Gotta mount bat wings. Going to set up with 10 degrees caster and then adjust at the hair pins if needed. 7 minimum 11 max is the range I want. Bat wings are 30 apart. And the steering arm is going to be near perfect. Gotta get another set of wings that have the top spring mount tab built in. Already located a set so it’s all good.

 

The top mounts for coil overs obviously won’t be there after all.

 

I did get trans mount plate /conversion done for Opel Kadet. I will cut the flat bar off and weld into place. The original one was a centered single bolt trans mount .

 

Measured caster change to ride hieght change. Bill says it looks like we are adding another 3 degrees. I’d personally like to have about 8-9 when the dust settles.

 

After talking to Bill at WAK I decided to ship axle and new bat wings and hair pins back to him. He has the jig and can set it up without question. I have narrowed front and rear ends but with the multiple plains /angles just seems the smart thing

 

Motor mounts and single bolt trans mount ready to go. ( decided to go back to single bolt )with the mid plate and side mounts should be fine. Intend on having mock up engine and glide in within the week. Need to finish basic trans tunnel calculations and plan headers also. Master cylinder and hand brake will be last. Need Wes ‘s placement to be precise

 

Mock up engine and glide in the Kadet to start building headers. Also trans tunnel and then hand control mounts.
I used the Prefect headers and was shocked at how close they were. They won’t bolt up to head completely flush with out either pie/funnel cut in the outboard body mount /x member or changing collector angle.
Neither is gona happen. I’ll build a new set if Wes doesn’t have something in his inventory.

 

Also reinstalled rear wheels and slicks to check wheel tub clearance. Good to go.

 

Spool for the Thames came in. Thanks Bob.
Fits perfect.