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Donor vehicle/drivertrain for a 1938 Buick Special series 41

Discussion in 'Off Topic Hot Rods & Customs' started by VintageIron41, Dec 16, 2025.

  1. VintageIron41
    Joined: Dec 16, 2025
    Posts: 4

    VintageIron41

    Hello and thanks for taking time to read this.
    Backstory-I bought a barn find 1938 Buick from an estate last year. It had been part of a collection, crusty it was and still is, though the previous owner had replaced the interior with period correct fabrics, and the original headliner is in good shape, these were selling points to me along with the bodystyle. I'm a fan of Harley Earl's, and the 1937-38 Buicks have always pulled at me. The car is complete, and has it's 248ci straight 8. It was stubborn, but got it running and have taken it short distances to a few car shows.
    Now, it's the most common 1938 Buick bodystyle ( gotta luv the suicide doors ), and with it's rust, leaking transmission/torque ball/torque tube, the 248ci engine in need a valve job, I would be upside down on restoring it to original condition so...
    What donor vehicle ( yes wheelbsase and track ) would be a basic swap? I have set a 1948 Panel truck on a modern platform it took a long time , I'd rather avoid that long of another build at my age, so is there a more simple option?
    I would consider doing a body swap, truck frames are plentiful but usually require chopping the body and I'd rather not do that.
    More practical seems to be a donor vehicle with a sound drivetrain, that I could take the engine and driveline including rear axle from, computer and harness from makes sense, GM cause it's a Buick, fuel injected would be a plus, as the car will set more than be driven.
    So from the standpoint of using the 1938 Buick frame, what modern GM fuel injected car or truck would fit a budget oriented build? It ain't going to SEMA, it's just a neat old car, that needs to start and stop reliably and not need it's fluids refilled so often ( not a fan of the torque tube ).

    Thanks!
     

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  2. pantodd74
    Joined: Jun 29, 2023
    Posts: 103

    pantodd74

    If the car will sit more than be driven it might be better to do the valve job and swap in a modern trans, driveshaft and rear end for cruising when you want to drive it. A Google search for 122" wheelbase vehicles will show you what is close to that and it looks like you will have to cut the frame to shorten it. Also have to look at the width as well.
     
    SS327 likes this.
  3. F-ONE
    Joined: Mar 27, 2008
    Posts: 3,717

    F-ONE
    Member
    from Alabama

    If you are worried about being upside down, you need to sell it give it away now.

    In my opinion there is no modern ch***is option that’s realistic.

    You mean to tell me that finding and buying a donor, is more economical than fixing or repairing what’s you already have.

    Engine swap….
    What engine?
    What’s involved in an engine swap?

    At minimum it’s engine, transmission, rear axle, to do it right, rear springs then there ch***is modifications for mounting, then there’s clearance issues for stuff like steering, maybe a new steering gear, then there’s brakes, e-brake to the new axle, a new brake system?…driveshaft work, hub wheel adapter stuff….wiring…..On and on and on…..

    Why not just fix what you have. Personally I think an overhaul is more realistic.
    It is what it is. What it is ain’t bad but an owner needs realistic expectations.

    In my opinion what you want to do takes what left of that old car and throws it away.

    Fix it or sell it.
     
  4. RodStRace
    Joined: Dec 7, 2007
    Posts: 9,081

    RodStRace
    Member

    This is going to move to the OT section. This is all common street rod stuff.
    I would concentrate on engine, transmission and rear axle measurements, along with support like the fuel tank with internal pump, PCM, and harness.
    It would probably be smart to go with OBDII 1996-up rather than OBDI, since that's what modern scanners and troubleshooting are using.

    The engine and trans should be fairly simple to mount up, the gas tank might end up being a custom, the harness will need to be thinned out. The rear axle may end up with whatever fits track wise and what mounting works. I would strongly suggest upgraded brakes for the increased power. Usage might require suspension upgrades. Are you thinking about HVAC, gauges, switches and other donor parts?

    Nothing 1996-up is going to have a ch***is that will be suitable for swapping, so I wouldn't even consider going that route. But that does bring up original frame and suspension questions. Is the frame going to need stiffening? Do you like it's current stance or are you going lower?
    Also, have you priced out a complete 1938 Buick rod that has had all this done? Unless you are doing the work and enjoy it, the costs are usually higher than a finished rod.
     
    SS327 likes this.
  5. RodStRace
    Joined: Dec 7, 2007
    Posts: 9,081

    RodStRace
    Member

  6. mohr hp
    Joined: Nov 18, 2009
    Posts: 1,604

    mohr hp
    Member
    from Georgia

    If this was 1980, I'd say find a rusty early '70's Electra or Centurion and use the 455/400. But them days are gone, as are most of those Electras. The car would probably serve you well with a 3800 V6 and a 2004r, but those are scarce now too. As far as a body swap, I agree with the others; the return on invested time is not there, nor are good full frame donors. My real time up to date idea; Sell it and take out a loan for the car you want, ready to roll!
     
    porkshop likes this.
  7. Okie Pete
    Joined: Oct 29, 2008
    Posts: 6,156

    Okie Pete
    ALLIANCE MEMBER

    I’m thinking a one ton Dodge dualie , bt 6 . 8” side pipes . Just messing with you . I’d go dt 466 and a 2 ton IH lol
    Beautiful car . I’m sure there’s disk brake kits available and narrowed 8” rear axle
     
  8. rusty1
    Joined: Nov 25, 2004
    Posts: 13,097

    rusty1
    Member

    this is like asking what's your favorite color,...too many options

    you should ask owners of these cars what they did...that would narrow it down.
     
  9. Just my opinion but seeing what’s there I’d go through the engine transmission and torque tube. Maybe if you’re really ambitious look for a 1941 320 with Compound Carburetion.

    For transmission and torque tube parts try Northwest Transmission Parts in Ohio. 800-327-1955. That’s where I got my transmission and torque tube parts for my Buick.
     
    leon bee likes this.
  10. RodStRace
    Joined: Dec 7, 2007
    Posts: 9,081

    RodStRace
    Member

    leon bee likes this.
  11. gene-koning
    Joined: Oct 28, 2016
    Posts: 5,876

    gene-koning
    Member

    It sort of sounds like a 38 Buick restoration site here!

    But then that happens when a guy wants to change an entire car into something more modern, but doesn't want it to become a long time project and doesn't want to drop a fortune doing it.

    Another dream shattered. A complete modernization of a 38 Buick is not fast, easy, nor cheap, and no one makes "a kit" to do it.
     
    RodStRace and TrailerTrashToo like this.
  12. VintageIron41
    Joined: Dec 16, 2025
    Posts: 4

    VintageIron41

    Hey thanks for the helpful suggestions! Opinions not so much lol.
    I’ve done several big builds, I was younger then and not about to retire, the ‘38 Buick was not running when I got it, does now, like I posted in my ownership so far I’ve made it a runner if the next owner wants to restore it hey go for it, they will at least start with a drivable car.
    I like the idea of researching/sourcing a drivetrain from the engine back, with adapters that would get me a more modern transmission and do away with the torque tube, better brakes in the rear to.
    Thanks again for the replies ( except for the opinions:)
     
  13. Well for a swap I’d suggest a Ford 300 6 cylinder and automatic transmission.
    GM 250’s are out, 1984 was the last year and truthfully the integrated cylinder head and intake manifold was problematic, cracked heads were not that uncommon.

    The late production Ford 300’s were fuel injected, the GM 250’s (and 292 cid) were never fuel injected, only carbureted. And the Chevy 250’s were not anything to brag about in performance, mileage in my opinion.

    From what I remember the frames of those (friend has a 37) is pretty narrow so a V8 swap could be challenging.
     

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