Hot Rods Model A Rake and Mechanical Brakes, etc.. Build thread?

"Maybe consider '32-'34 spindles & brakes. Better bigger brakes and you can use regular tie rod ends instead of dealing with oblong worn balls on the original arms."

Rich, I'm reading and learning. [and paying attention] I stumbled across a Marketplace ad and took a 9 hour round road trip with a friend for what I thought was a really good deal.


I scored 4, ’34 Ford drums, backing plates, actuators, levers, rods, spindles and all the bearings for $100.






It must have had a recent brake jobs as the shoes look like new and probably can be re-used.
Although I have yet to clean them up and inspect, I think the bearings may be good to re-use as well. I haven't checked the kingpins but it all looks like it had recent work.
The guy I got them from yard drove a '34 he had bought and went right to juice brakes.

So not disk brakes by any means but better than the Model A.

It was a decent trip from Maryland to Upper Jersey, and my buddy and I solved most of the world's problems enroute. so all in all a productive day.
robj

 

Good news, Bad news.
The good news, the engine is back from the machine shop.
The bad news, I'm nowhere near ready for it.
I need to pick up the pace.

So, insert bearings, counter-balanced crank, .100 pistons, Hastings gapless rings machined by Total Seal, forged connecting rods, Burtz 6.5:1 head, [clearanced for intake valves] .330 lift - .244 duration cam, [basically a B cam], hardened valve seats, 1.700 SBI intake valves, [exhaust, stock size] and last but not least a 45 pound flywheel and V-8 clutch. Oil filter adapter.

To come, "probably" a "Super B" distributor, Stomberg 97, and definitely [I found a deal] Reds 4 into 1 header and stock appearing Ares performance muffler.
So not a race motor by any stretch but should at least get out of it's own way with decent drivability.

But like I said, I need to pick up the pace but at least it's pretty to look at. While trying to justify the cost...

 

Your motor looks scrumptious
Go man go

 

Ha!
Thanks.
My favorite saying is, "Anything worth doing is worth doing to excess"...
Now I only need to do the other million things to make it a car.
robj

 

5.90x15, 2-1/2” dropped A axle, unsplit wishbone, reversed eye spring in front.
8.20x15, reversed eye spring with 3 or 4 leafs removed.
‘40 Ford brakes, 46-48 spindles with dropped arms, tubular shocks

The four banger can drive at freeway speeds; but can not stop adequately for freeway traffic safety needs.Better brakes are needed.

In high school, 1963, I had similar setup on this same car, but ran 5.60x15 front tires, and the wishbone ball area was the lowest part of the car and occasionally s****ed on a driveway curb. It was pre interstate freeways and pre radial tires and pre disc brakes, so it was safer to drive back then.

 

Russ,
Beautiful car. I'm lucky that I live more or less in the country and don't see Freeways in my future. I'm going with '34 brakes so slightly better than the Model a brakes.
robj

robj

 

Yes where we live, and the traffic we face, makes your decision right for you but not for me. Best of luck with the brakes you will be using.

 

You did very well on your purchase of the 34 spindles and brake parts; you saved a ton of money on bearings alone. Spend some of the money you saved on a Flathead Ted's brake floater kit. Those that have recommended it know what they are talking about!

 

I redid the brakes on my 28 Tudor using new cast iron drums and new shoes properly fitted
Running at 40-45 mph the brakes work very well
but
the key to stopping these old cars is using the engine to slow down long before you have to stop.
and keeping them adjusted

 

My original plan was to use the Model A setup with new cast iron drums but the drums alone were $500, not including getting them on the hubs.
Even when others suggested the increased size of the later years, when I started looking at piecing a set together even that got pricy quick.
When I found this deal [complete set-up from a '34] for $100 it was a no brainer even with a 9 hour round trip to get them.
I do plan on the "Floater' kit from Ted. Everything I've read about them is good. I mean it doesn't make them "self-energizing" but it seems it helps a lot.
robj

 

Bits and pieces.

So after talking with Joe Castro, I adjusted my front crossmember and raised it 3/4" for some additional drop. But at the suggestion of others I'm not finish welding until I confirm it's correct.





The other small-ish thing. Seems a lot of folks use cut sections of old springs to use as spacers to make up for a thinner leaf stack.

I thought a block would be a little nicer.



Still waiting on my axle but I think it's getting close,

robj

 

The floaters will ensure that both shoes have positive contact with the drums. The biggest problem with model a brakes is if they are not centered on the axle you won’t have positive contact with both shoes. Proper centering of the shoes can be accomplished by measuring the distance from each shoe to the center of the axle and getting them equal.

 

P.S. If anyone sees I'm heading in the wrong direction, please feel free to speak up. I'm a bit new at this!

rj