Technical to be or not to be: 327 or 383 ?

I'm planning to swap the engine in my 32 Ford Roadster this winter and cant decide what to do.
I have a !966 327 with 462/463 FI heads in it now, with a TH350 and 9" with 4.11 gears. It's fun, but that 327 is tired and I need more seat-of-the-pants fun.

I also have another 1966 327 sitting in my garage that I can use for parts if something is out of serviceable spec. One thing in the plan is Trick Flow DHC 175 or 200 heads (that will take 65 lbs off the front end).

Would you build another 327, or buy/build a 383? I like acceleration, but don't want to sacrifice drive-ability. Either way, what would you do for compression ratio, cam, etc?

What say you?

 

How much traction you got? Only way it’ll feel funner is to have your back against the back rest. Or do you like drifting better? I say 327

 

My Model A got one of the Blueprint engines 430hp 383s. With aluminum heads and a hydraulic roller cam it was the quintessential hot rod engine. Lots of power, great idle, ran cool and was reliable as can be. It really put you back in the seat, even with 3.50 gears. Lol
It’s probably cheaper and more traditional to build up one of your 327s yourself but if you just want to get er done, these crate engines are a great choice.

 

Depends what the crank is like if you don’t need a new crank I’d just go 327. 200cc is quite large for a smaller street motor.

 

Stroke the 327

 

What does a 32 roadster weigh maybe 2,400 pounds? I am thinking that maybe on the heavy side.

How much do you need in a car that light, particularly on the street, a 327 should be more than enough to scare the hell out of yourself!

This is Jimmy Fugal and and the clone of the car he raced in 1972 right down to the 327 and pink rods!

The car is over the 3,000s pound maybe pushing 3,200 I believe, a regular winner and 3 time Mohawk Valley Vintage Antique cl*** Champion against lighter cars with 350s!



This is real racing not just a parade!

 

My "go to" formula these days is larger displacement but lower compression. I would rather drive something with a wide power band but still works with regular gasoline. Its more critical with a smaller engine as most people use higher 10:1 or more. Camshaft selection is more critical with smaller displacement and then you have the 1:1 ratio of high gear in a Turbo 350 and the limited roadability of those 4:11 rear gears.

My solution is more displacement and no more than 10:1 compression with a mild cam and a 4 speed overdrive turning 3.70 rear gears. The lower first gear of the OD trans will make it feel like 4:11s and the OD will make the 3:73 feel like a highway gear. My 2000 Chevy pickup has OD and 3:73 and 80 mph is about 2300 rpms. It will go like a rocket and still use regular gas.......and a $1 a gallon difference every time you fill the tank.

 

You had me at 327!
Did you mean to say 461/462 heads?

 

When in doubt, bore it out. No subs***ute for cubic inches... etc...

383 without any hesitation, more torque, more horsepower, lower rpms to accomplish it. 327 would have to Rev high to get close to the numbers that the 383 can produce at a lower rpm. Less rpm, less wear and tear.

The low end grunt/torque, especially with an auto trans will give you a lot more "fun factor" in the seat of the pants feel in the 383.

I've built both, 327 with turbo 400 and 4:88 gears, 383 with 350 turbo and 3:50 gears, the 383 was funner but listening to the 327 turn rpms was fun too, both street trucks. But the 383 would eat the 327 after the first block...

...

 

"... more seat of the pants fun..."

You'll have it with low rpm torque.
Low compression. Mild cam.
Regular gas, smooth idle and gobs of torque at every stoplight.

383

Unless you just have to have the choppy idle and high revving song of a short stroke motor.
And I completely understand. LOL
But I would more likely want that paired with a stick shift.

 

Without a doubt I would build a 327! In fact that conversation just came up this morning with a Hamber(4wd1936) and retired shop teacher about replacing a Semi tired 327 with a done up 350 that I sold him and he went with rebuilding the 327 and selling the 350. We are both semi old also (70+) and old school.

Pat

 

Some guys just need a “stroker”. If it were me I’d get a Dart block or a 400 SBC and bore it .030” to 4.155, install a **** 3-7/8” crank so I could have a borer and stroker 420”….

 

A few more details might get more specific advice. Do you intend to keep the TH 350 or switch to a stick? What's your barometer for your seat of the pants fun - a gentle torque push or rowing through the gears? Most important be realistic about how you drive the majority of the time and build accordingly. If you ***emble a bunch of parts that don't start to play nice together until north of 4500 and you spend 85 % of the time at 1500 neither you or the engine will be happy. If you stay with the Th350 the 383 may be the better choice. With a stick the 327 may be better for you. In either case you don't want the 200cc heads. Keep the carb 600-650 cfm. With aluminum heads CR not over 10 and 9.5 is probably better. Cam to work with the components chosen and usable RPM band desired to match your driving style.

 

What are you looking for
Power
Torque
Rpm's
Pump gas , 87,89 ,91-93
What your budget?
A very simple low buck engine if you can find a stock short block 400.
Would be 400 stk cast piston's ,with heads mention 64 cc 10:1 ish 200 cfm better .
Stock bottom end 2 or 4 bolt , with a Vega Torque
Converter or B&M Saturday night special,
.300 D , . 500 L cam , No 4:11
3:50 3:00 gear tire 28-31 8 wide
Single 750 cfm short Team G or Holley Strip .. 5,500 - 5,800 Rpm . Tune correct you will fight to keep from spinning around on dry road until you learn how to drive ..
If you want more Rpms and another 100 plus Hp & Torq , $$$ Stock block or Aftermarket , & crank , rods piston good Rockers , Not pedestal. Under 11:1 .

me 377 over 383 530 plus
377 big bore & rpms little $$$
Crank rod pistons cam in .550-.630
200 plus cfm heads may be 18 deg
Carb 830-1,000 cfm
Mid Holley strip maybe tall
Recommend pedestal or 7/16 & girdle

383 to turn Rpms , 570 plus, Good crank , rods Pistons Heads 220 plus
Recommend pedestal or 7/16 girdle
Cam .550- .650
Carb 850 -1,100 cfm
Mid Holley Strip maybe tall

Or build a 331 , 7,500 -8,500 rpms plus
With 18 deg heads Pedestal .600 plus
Tall Holley Strip

**** are average parts,
One crank I have 383 ,
$1,200 30 years ago
& if wanting to drop weight on the front end you can go this route
tall deck raised cam SBC
Close to 500 cid

 

Boils down to what you mean by ‘seat of the pants fun’.
We can all tell you what we would do, but the real answer can only come from you.
How do you want to drive your roadster.

Eg. I like smokin tires as much as smokin cigars, so I build with 400 ftlbs as my target in a SBC. Gone (for me) are the days of +6000 rpm bang shiftin, and fillin the tank with 25 cent gas (per liter, haha) so I will stay with my taller gears for the odd romp, but I will use an overdrive ****** to get me around in a civilized manner when needed. This also makes my copilot happier. 2000 rpm down the highway and she smiles. 4000 rpm….not so much.

 

The thing is that if your combination needs crank and rod work plus new pistons a stroker kit can be a great choice. New parts for close to the same price as reworked parts more torque and power at a lower rpm than the smaller displacement and it still looks like it did originally did.

 

Man, the word "stroker" has to be like the "ported and relieved" term of old, so yesterday.
My Rodeck block 427 SBC is unbored (4.125), Callies 4 inch crank, 10/1 Wiseco pistons, AFR 210 heads, blah blah blah.
A lightweight deuce roadster with that combo will be fun, oh yeah, and a FOUR SPEED.
Should also have said all aluminum, really takes the weight off the front!

 

No real help in the OP's question, but I want one of those SBC 427's in an old Ford in the worst way.

 

Any 327 is fine with me. If it has solid lifters all the better. I would trash the 350 automatic and go with an Overdrive five speed with that 4:11 rear. Go Man Go!!

 

Let me take a stab at what is causing your indecision.
383...... Lots more power while being much more driver friendly. A good option.
327...... Fits with the 'traditional' mindset. Also a good option.
I think you just need to decide which playbook you want to use.

 

As mentioned before...."There is No Subs***ute For Cubic Inches"

Even a 383 is not that big these days, but you will definitely get a lot more "seat of the pants" with the 383 VS the 327 with the same goodies in it.

Leave the 4:11 alone & s**** the T-350 for a 700r4, 4l60E or 5 spd stick.

@Rickybop ...Some of us like the choppy idle & "high wind" the long arm ones, probably further than we should! Definitely a stick.

God Bless
Bill
https://www.jalopyjournal.com/forum...ar-transport-hauling-open-or-enclosed.614419/

 

I definitely would do the 383, throw an old oil fill intake on it and tell everyone it's a 327, nobody will be the wiser.
I ran a 383 in my Henry J, fun little 10-1 engine that ran on pump gas, always good for a smile. The 327 can't compare to the low end grunt, it's a more efficient motor out of the two making the same power.

 

Depends on traction. If already breaking loose easily with a worn 327 no point in going to a higher torque 383

 

As pictured what gear were you running with the 383 & what did it run I am ***uming that is an 1/8th mile)

God Bless
Bill
https://www.jalopyjournal.com/forum...ar-transport-hauling-open-or-enclosed.614419/

 

@SDS
A year a go when you where building your 327 , you where disappointment
Wants running ,, Its alittle under Mild !
If where little under 11:1 , the right cam
Not radical with close to .500 lift
Correct CL & duration , 200 cfm 2:2 heads open plane intake Original torquer or scorpion, Excalibur ,low team G work inside intake & ported
750 steel crank , worked rods on low buck H rods balanced 6,500-7k
91-93 oct
4 speed or 5 , nothing wrong with th350
Built with some tricks ..with
"Correct Converter"" 2,800 -3,000 . For a 327, 327 wired on converter specs ..
You would think different !!!
On your roadster with 327 450-475 hp &
Would run 90 plus in 1/8 on 7 inch wide
Street tires . Scare most .. I can tell you by experience , I been over 200 in 1/4.
Your combo is prety much 275 set up .
I would Not build a 383 Not being in the
570 plus hp on pump gas unless you want a
Truck motor ,,,
Matching parts matter & knowing how to tune ,,, All my As , 32's have a 408-434
Sbc exempt one with 383 Blown built back in mid 90's ""rotating ***embly"" then Was 5k,, parts before Heads Up,
I run 11:1 sc with just 5 psi , If I change gas or back to akly & back to original cam over 600 roller
With 12 psi , 4,500 stall 315 tires Bar change I can carry wheels on street .
On alky & MFI its more Violent.
One of my other combo is straight 6
Jap with turbo .
I'm just fortunate that I've been doing this since I was Before 10 cutting a lot of gr*** ,
In my A roadster it has a whopping 85 if lucky Hp
@SDS you are into all this 3D printing Buy your self a draggy , links to you phone , small as a bic lighter, GPS data , all of us are serious about knowing what our rides are doing have , even guys at the drag strip use it to verify the information on the time slip.
$150 No Drag Strip Needed to
Do***ent your performance !!!!

 

That is too obvious.

383 in the SJ 327 block [either get the mains cut to SJ or line bore the 327 block]

 

Hello,

Having had a 327 with 125k miles, it was a great motor for local driving and long distance road trips. It never had any problems and started up right away in all weather conditions. The 65 El Camino somehow got a reliable 327 motor when ordered.

So, if I wanted more horsepower, today, I would not rebuild that 327 or any old motor. With access to complete crate motors, why is there any doubt? Get the motor, install it, hook up everything and start your road trips. The above motor seems great with 415 horsepower.

Having rebuilt a complete 292 c.i. motor from scratch to a 671 supercharged race motor, it was a long hard project that took us everyday after school and on the weekends at the time. Today, it would take longer and so with the complete motor ready and shipped to your door, what else is there? You are not going into compe***ion, but want a new 383 motor. Here are several models of 383 motors to hook up to your running gear. 415 hp would move a roadster quickly.

Jnaki

Back in those old days, no one had a complete motor ready and available with good specs. Some were stock motors dressed up for window or shop displays. It was as simple as putting together parts from the counter for show. There weren't crate motors ready for installations.

There are plenty of levels of crate motors and with a 4:11 rear, install the motor, try it out and then change to a 3.7 or 3.55 rear gears for a nice highway power and cruise. There are plenty of options and try what you have with the crate motor. Then adjust as needed.

Note:

The final build of our 671 supercharged motor was using a 4:56 rear gear for maximum power. It was fast, but hardly a daily driver for cruising and stop/go driving. Even our 1958 modified Impala had 4:11 gears and when changed to a 3:55, it still had some power but the long 200 mile road trips into the local mountains were fun. Not as powerful as a fast quarter mile race, but enough power to drive comfortably. YRMV

 

Compare this with bchctybob's post #3. Just an old 275hp 327 backed by a Muncie. Look pretty similar, but........

 

I’d go with a 327.

 

+1, 383 crate engine ... period. Oh, stick shift. My .02 $$