Fantastic work by an obviously highly skilled craftsman and photography to match! Found this at just the right time as I am dealing with a lot of the same issues at this time on my '29 roadster AV8 project. The throttle linkage solution is outstanding and will work for me as well. Just need to get a F1 steering box as my Randy Gross F100 box will no longer work on my car. Can't wait to see more of this build.
I'd like to echo the others, your work is very impressive. I consider myself a basic hack but do have an appreciation for those that have the chops. This will be a car that someone could spend a lot of time taking in the finer details. Thanks
They make reproduction 32 e-brake handles and you can make an angle iron bracket to attach to 3 bolts on the transmission lid.
Yes I know, I’d prefer to have original parts where I can. If I can’t find one by the time I can drive the car I’ll go repop.
Not much progress to show yet. Christmas time so I have been busy trying to get as much work out of the shop as possible and making some Christmas presents. I’ll be back at it early January.
Okay i'm back at it over the past couple week, Not a ton of progress but progress at least. Mounted the Master Cylinder in place and patched a few areas. Ill weld and metal finish the areas again when its apart. Ill be making my own bellcrank set up for the pedal connection
I completely tore down the ch***is and have been working on final welding and getting it all clean metal again. I needed to check my metal finishing from all the seam welding i did on the rails, i guess surface rust is free ****m. I also wanted to add some rivits for looks. I welded my crossmembers because I had never actually done hot rivits before. I gave it a try in a few spots. Came out ehh- not sure if it was my homemade tooling or lack or experience or both. Its something i need to get good at. These plates are to support where the frame was sectioned and has a vertical weld. Rivits on one side, hardware on the other side where the K member supports bolt up. I just did some rivits in areas i could put the head on the outside and would get hidden anyways to try and practice.
Metal finished the sectioned and shortened rear frame horns that tuck up under the body I also added a little kidney shaped hole to the K member which will give me straight access for my brake line fitting on the MC
Clean frame ready to go back into a roller for the last ch***is work. I am hoping to powdercoat the frame next month
Some more progress from last weekend- Im back to sorting out the seat. Last time I revisited the seat i moved the base again. I want a plump looking cushion. Where i had myself sitting comfortable previously the back rest cushion was only about 2" and it just looks wrong. So i moved the seat back again, gave my hinges a little more angle and will sit me nice and comfortable with a 4" cushion + Upholstery thickness. Doing this i had to remove the seatback structure / package tray area which some suggested previously in my seat talk but I was trying to avoid because I like the way that piece looks. Onto making my own
I started with a 1x2" rectangle tube and started cutting in my arched shape and reliefs for the body joins.
Next i cut down the Original package tray to just what ill reuse, and mocked up the new tube in place, clamped and tacked together.
I extended the sheetmetal on the body another few inches, These will to into the new cross structure. It will also help to remedy the body cracking issues from the stiffness of the wood ending at the same point the original sheetmetal ends.
Last bit of shaping to make some end caps for the new structure to tie into the original but extended body sheetmetal
All welded and metal finished ends- and fitted in place- This gave the body alot of strength and structure and a firm backing for my seat
@JR-69 that's beautiful work & a very non obtrusive way of strengthening the body, it would be easy to jam some steel tube in there, but it will always look like it is, your solution will look factory to most people with the exception of those who know exactly what stock looks like. a wonderful vision & an inspiration.
The nutserts are a nice touch. I like to use captive nuts on parts with hard-to-reach backsides. Less skinned knuckles and dropped nuts on ***embly day.
Thanks Harald! I just took a scroll through your thread great looking car! That volvo trans swap is cool
Thank you very much! That is always the goal to make parts that look like they could have been factory
The Jalopy Journal
