Hot Rods 61 Chevy Performance drive shafts

In process of building a NHRA legal Stocker, more of a "Retirement, H***el Free car" 283/215 with a Metric 200 and 5500 converter. Last car was my 66 Biscayne,,283/229 with a Jerico. Ran multiple Divisional and National Events including cl*** wins with wins at the US Nationals, just not wanting to work that hard anymore. Not very excited to run NHRA, may run a couple close to me. But, plans are to run a few local Nostalgia based races. Cautiously starting out with a stock rear end, short tire with 5:38 posi, just finished a 4th upper link, boxed lowers, all with Energy Suspension Poly bushings. Yeah, I know a 12 bolt would be better (cant do a 9 inch, not legal to cross bread a legal stocker) but gonna see if it will hold up to a low HP 283. Exploring drive shaft options without spending huge money. Are there decent options other than the shops like Inland empire drive line in Cali for example. Appreciate any X FRAME guru input. THANKS

 

Years back I had a horrible time keeping the two piece driveline center support bearing mount together in my 61 Impala .
Im talking 1980 time frame.

The driveline its self should be easy to source in A strong enough version . The bearing and all that would be my concern if iys retains a two piece drive line.

 

@saltflats to the white courtesy phone please!

 

@Stock Racer you got your ears on?

 

I ran a urethan center support bearing only for a few years before going to a one piece and a P/O 9.3 rear end.

 

There are some poly center supports with stronger metal supports on them around like this one.
The back in the day trick was use non greasable solid crosses in the U joints. That from friends who ran those cars pretty hard back then. Most broken U joints break at the grease zerk if the the torque is pulling against it rather than pushing against it.

 

Here's some discussion on it a few years back:

https://www.jalopyjournal.com/forum/threads/chevy-x-frame-to-1-piece-driveshaft.149550/

 

Center supports are one thing, the snout for it is another. They break with any power...I've found

 

With a 283 automatic Stocker, I wouldn't be afraid to try the stock 2 piece with a urethane center support. You could do a 1 piece but for the RPM you'll need to keep that 283 happy, I'd do a 2 piece. You may be able to find a local shop more cost effective than Inland Empire to do upgrades like a slip joint. The 8.5" ten bolt (like those in second gen Camaro's) is a great alternative to a 12 bolt.

 

Right lane. 409/409 th350 4.56 gears with 9 inch slicks.

 

this is defiantly the thing that will keep the bearing happy.

If you go to a one piece the next weak link in the rear would be that upper control arm mount on the housing. That thing is probably the weakest link on the rear suspension. The one in our 61 Impala has been rewelded up at some point and I dont think that car has ever been a hard racer at any point in its life. I know the original 61 348 /350hp Impala my grandfather bought brand new in 61 had to have it fixed from doing some street racing and at some of the local strips.

 

All the 2 piece drivelines I’ve had or still have I put a slip yoke in the rear shaft. Adjust like @Moriarity says. The only carrier bearing I lost was a cheap Autozone unit after years of daily driving.

 

You're not lifting your skirt Salty, that time slip is from 2016, I've seen the Shaker go much Quicker

You wouldn't be trying to Hustle someone would you

 

I run/ ran healthy big blocks in mine. I run Inland Empire Driveline center support bearing supports as mentioned above for the last 27 years with zero issues. I also have the stock driveshaft halves converted to .125 wall and solid u-joints. This combo has held up to 550 HP & 550 ft lbs of torque since 1998. The early IED support bearing supports had a steel outer casing which I prefer over the billet ones, but they aren't seen so no big deal.

 

This was the quickest it went with the two piece drive shaft.