I’ve built many muscle car and street machine style cars. This is my first hot rod and I could use some lessons. We’re building our own 2x3 frame. It is stock model A in length, and has a 3” kick up in the front. I used a stock Model A crossmember. I have an early tube style front end that came from a ‘40 Chevy G***er, and it had parallel leafs. I want to use the axle, but with a transverse spring. What would be the best way to attach the spring shackles to the round tube axle? I’m trying to use as many of my “in inventory” parts as possible, but I’m not opposed to buying something if needed. Any help or advice is appreciated. WadeEO
No idea about your axle but that supercharger set up is way cool! Probably has all the blow of an asthmatic ant but way cool. Have you got the electric motor for it?
That Model A cross member you have is meant to go inside unboxed frame rails and rivet in. It's not meant for between the rails as you have it. Your frame is probably several inches too wide the way you have it mocked up, if you're trying for Model A dimensions as you said.
You can weld front crossmember in way you have it , Or to get front rail's to be more A for the Rad shell & hood sides , do several pie cuts weld finish off welds . Like every 1/4 - 1.00 inch starting forward of firewall to slowly narrowing Each side inward towards engine Then straight , like Model As & 32's
Yes sir, thank you. I'm just keeping the frame at the stock length. The TRoG rules specify it can't be stretched. I may never get to go there, but that was my reasoning this time.
Do yourself a favor and build it on the '32 wheelbase of 106" instead of the A 103"... that 3" will help A LOT in the long run. 3blap.
I think you have the crossmember backwards. The radiator holes should be at the front. And it should be a lot shorter than that if you're going to weld it to the inside of the tube. And you should consider what you want for a caster angle before welding it in, as the angle of the place where the transverse spring seat up into it is what you will get for caster. I can't remember exactly, but I think for my '32 Ford I gave it something between 6 and 9 degrees of caster. More caster makes it less likely to shimmy, and helps to pull the wheels straight ahead naturally, such as after completing a turn. You have a little room for adjustments depending on what type of hairpin or 4-link etc. front end you use. But you don't want your lateral leaf spring to be in a bind, trying to force it to go several degrees forward or backward from what the caster angle the spring is sitting at.
thank you so much for the effort and explanation. yes, the crossmember is backwards, but on purpose. i wanted the rolled lip side to fit under the front cross bar for more rigidity. I didn't know at first it had caster built in, but it became evident afterwards. i can slice it and drop it in the back to gain my caster. I'm considering building buckets and using 3" coil springs instead of the leaf. I'm swimming here and trying not to drowned with ideas. thank you for the guidance. Wade
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