Thanks! It's been a process. Most of what I'm doing is piece meal from other builds I've seen here and in other places.
I’m working on my steering currently. Started to fab up a heim joint for the shaft between the u-joints. Bolts to the inside of the frame rail and is mostly hidden from view
With the column shortened, I'm working on the steering drop. I used the '29 drop and cut it to add some drop to it. The plain part looked kinda boring to me, so I'm adding some depth to it to make it look more like a casting. Once I tack these pieces in place, I'll braze the gaps and smooth it out. I'm hoping this works...first time. I also got my battery cables today. I had planned to use cloth covered cables, but realized that the only cable that would be seen is the one from the solenoid to the starter, which is only 8". If I don't like it, I can always replace that one with some cloth covered stuff. For those who have used, or plan to use, Tyree's Wires for electrical wiring, he has now retired. He gave me the number for another guy in Oregon that took over the business.
Looking great, Jeff! Glad BatteryCables worked well for you. One thing I do is spray a little bit of brake cleaner on a blue shop towel to wipe the lettering off. Keep on keepin' on!
For wires in plain sight I'm using textured shrink tubing to make them look a little less obvious as new. https://www.amazon.com/dp/B0BWMVBH8V/?tag=atomicindus08-20
Got the headers painted and back on the car. Tight fit on the driver side. Not so bad on the p***enger side.
And I got my column drop closer to finished. I want to add some braze to smooth out the corners and then it should look good.
Flipping back through the updates please make sure that battery cut off switch isn’t going to ever hit your seat frame. After seeing a roadster with a similarly placed battery make contact with the seat frame and send it up in flames I figured it was worth a mention.
Good thoughts. The contacts are on the back of the switch, and I do plan to have an upholstered panel behind the seat to enclose the trunk area. But I'll make sure that I don't do something stupid before then...
Having a bit of anxiety today. Tried to crank the engine over with the new battery and cables and it wouldn’t turn much at all if any. Battery is new and fully charged. Transmission is in neutral. Clutch in or out still won’t turn. Turned over by hand and it is TIGHT. Not sure but seems too tight to me. I could hear the starter motor turning as I cranked it by hand. pulled the starter and the drive gear was stuck at the “engaged” end. Got that broken loose but the starter is making bad sounds Video: https://youtube.com/shorts/7QWcWiBma2w?si=hN8F4WwwyyfSA1Wi Thoughts? Read another thread on how tight it should be. Unclear to me if it’s stuck or something else. Will call the builder tomorrow. unfortunately I didn’t turn it over by hand previously so I can’t compare.
A lot of newly built engines can be quite tight - due to the types of rings being used, tight bearing clearances, etc.. Was the engine done correctly - I have no way of knowing. But the starter you are turning over (saw the video) sounds like a grinder full of rocks - it should turn easily and be very smooth - it should not be making a noise like you showed. One thing that is a good idea on ANY newly built engine is to use a big torque wrench when it is new and check the torque to turn it over, then after running it a bit - recheck the torque. Normally it should become easier to turn over once it has run a bit. If it becomes harder to turn over (with the same torque wrench), this can be a sign of bad things - like bearings that are/were too tight and seizing up on the crank. If the builder is a reputable builder, you should be okay . . . with a good starter! Also, I would prime the oil-galleys before starting it and also pull the plugs and let the "new starter" turn it over a bunch to pump oil into the crank and bearings. If the new starter can't easily turn it over with the plugs out - then you have some real issues.
I’ve had flywheels that were slightly wavey or have a funny tooth and if it landed on that specific spot when I shut it off I would have to remove the starter, turn the engine a bit by hand, put the starter back on, and then I was good to go. I guess it’s not that uncommon. Hopefully you’ll have a simple fix and be on your way. I get the anxiety though.
Thanks @Bored&Stroked and @Tim . Extremely reputable builder (Tardel). I plan to call him tomorrow to see what he thinks. The starter is toast. I'm sure he has another one, but I don't want to crank this thing if there's something worse going on, so I want his opinion before I proceed. The engine was run-in on a stand, and I ran it once in October to make sure everything worked as planned, and it did. Hoping that the engine is just tight and he says it's fine, but being overly cautious. Thanks for understanding the high anxiety. I was about to throw up yesterday as I was digging into this.
Damn that looks GOOD!!!!!! Yall gonna make me go digg one of uncles flatties out and change my OLDS ROCKET out!!!!!! NAWGHH..just kidding...... Gonna make me buy another project to keep up......
Haven’t been able to talk with Vern yet, but I did find out what’s wrong with the starter. Pulled the band off the back and found one of the brush springs loose inside (broke off), and the positive wire from the brushes to the brush band was broken off completely. Guessing that the spring broke off and slammed around in the case doing some damage. Not sure if I can fix it, or if I need a new starter.
Looks like it just popped lose? Spring looks fine. Slide the case off the starter and take a look? From what I can see the spring isn’t broken and the metal bit it hooks to looks fine. Your brush may have gotten chewed up a bit. I bet you slide it apart and worse case you put new a new brush/ brush’s in it and re ***emble and it’s fine.
The Jalopy Journal
