Putting an engine that was freshly rebuilt years ago back together after putting a new head gasket on. I’m having trouble with the two rocker arms that are on either side of the oiler on the shaft. When I go through the procedure to adjust these valves are way too tight for any adjustment even if I back the screw all the way out. I’ve ensured it is the correct arm for that cylinder/ valve. Not sure what else to try.
Providing the rocker orientation is correct, there is a difference between the '40 and '41 and later engines, is it possible the lower pushrod ends are not centered of their lifters and riding on the edges? Good luck!
Are top of all the valve stems the same height when closed? Are all the pushrods sticking up the same amount when closed?
Everything changed in '41 .... '41-'53 216 rocker arms as follows - Left exh - cast 839461 Right exh - 839462 Left Int - 839465 Right Int - 839466 Pushrods should all measure 10 7/16'' Full set of milkcan lifters ? Valve seats ground way too deep ?
Tried again tonight with another set of arms I verified and know for a fact are 41 same issue but on another arm. Can’t wrap my head around this one.
So I’ve got a new development this is what I was doing before: rotate the flywheel to the TDC mark check where the rotary ****on is let’s say is facing cylinder 1, adjust the first 3 starting from the radiator skip one adjust the next skip one until I get to the final 3 and stop. I then turn it until I reach TDC again and repeat the process for the valves I didn’t get last time. Tonight I tried something different, I adjusted each set of valves based on the firing order, for example if the rotary ****on was pointing to 2 I adjusted those valves for that cylinder then rotated to the next cylinder etc and didn’t have any clearance issues?
That won't work. Let's ***ume the dist. is installed correctly with engine stopped on #1, & rotor pointed straight down. Now, adjust the intake to .006 & the exhaust .016. Now, turn engine clockwise 60 degrees & set the valves on #5. Turn 60 degrees further to #3 & set valves .... 3 more to go & you have an engine that'll run right if all the rest is as it should be ... (We set the exhaust .003 looser than normal specs to allow for hard usage, seats ground too thin, wore out feeler strip, etc.)
Do you know if the head ground for more compression? I was told that stock car guys running Chevy six cylinders would add shims under the rocker arm shaft stands the equal amount of how much was ground off the head to keep rocker arm geometry the same. Up to 1/8 inch for their race engines
I’ve not seen a cold spec for adjusting the valves, what I did with the 235’s I’ve had was rotate the engine until both intake and exhaust valve were closed. Rotate and make sure no movement of the valves. Set the intake valve and exhaust valve to .008 and .016, if memory serves. Then move on to # two, etc until all were done. Start the engine and let it idle for about a 1/2 hour and then while running set to spec. Been 20 or so years, but I think .006/.012-4 was where I set them, whatever my Motors manual said was spec. I’m sure others have a better/quicker way, but I was never in a rush. Edit: I must mention for the initial set I had the plugs out, I could put pressure on the belt and rotate the engine via the fan. Yes, I was younger then
Depending on how worn your rocker arm tips are, you might want to use a narrow feeler gauge to set them. A wide one will bridge the gap between the worn surface that contacts the valve and give you an inaccurate reading.
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