Projects 1941 Ford Special, Field Car

That would be awesome! Looking at parts it might be more economical to swap in an 8BA crank and rods instead of buying the floating rod bearings.

 

I’ve got a froze 51-53 FH block at the house
I know where another one is I can pick up cheap
Block is probably trash.
Rods should be good

 

It may be worth a trip depending on what the machine shop says. My goal is to use as much of the original engine as possible, but common sense has to overcome idealism at certain points.

 

Found a shop in Corinth MS, I’m dropping off the crank and block next week.

 

You're in the wrong hobby if you are looking for common sense!
Seriously though, it has been an intersting thread so far and I'm keen to find out which direction it takes you.
Good luck!
LT

 

I need to buy a copy of that, and the ch***is manual. Maybe Santa will hook me up.

 

Congratulation's for staying with the flathead. I have some suggestion's its important obviously to have the block checked for cracks. Once the block p***es has no cracks there is still one more important step. Pressure testing the block will test in the areas crack testing is not done. Examples exhaust ports and the lifter valley walls. Its especially important to do the valley since the casting wall thickness is very thin. The heat from a torch to cut out valves etc could cause an issue I know from personal experience.
You can make your own pressure testing equipment using a cylinder head, head gasket and making a plate that covers the water pump area of the block.

The plan to use the 8BA crank and rods is a good one just the cost savings for the rod bearings compared to the floater bearings and the rebuilding cost if possible of the floater rods big end is a plus.

Last suggestion since you have the sleeves removed when I do a tin sleeve removal like this I always bore the block to the stock 239 bore size of 3-3/16.
Ronnieroadster

 

Make sure they do the block first, before the crank.

 

Both good calls. I also think I figured out how they ran it out of oil. I can't find the oil slinger half that goes in the block, just the half in the rear main cap. Did these have an upper and a lower?

 

The rust colored rods got really hot and burned off all the oil coating.

 

Their is an upper insert for the block. The early crankshaft has a slinger on the rear between the rear main bearing thrust surface and the flywheel flange. If you decide to go to the latter crankshaft like the 8BA a rope type seal is used. For the early block like yours inserts are available both original and reproductions for the rope seal.
Ronnieroadster

 

@IronTrap has a running 40 flathead for $1800.00 it would be a quick way to get this going....

 

I’m taking the block to the machine shop Monday, its about 90 minutes away but they have the Am-pro setup so it will be nice and clean before all the cracks show up.

 

just running across this thread, congrats i always liked that body style. watching.