Here is my 32 gas tank...I dont know what it is but its close to a MODEL T 20-25 OVAL Tank.. ..It has 2 internal baffles also..... Anybody Know what it is????? Or can point me to someone that would remake..... You can see my POST #27 on this link..... Thanks U KIND PEOPLE!!!! https://www.jalopyjournal.com/forum/threads/1932-5w-richard-****ie-roys-coupe.1329799/#post-15776618
What's wrong with the tank you have now? I saw you don't want to put some cream stuff in it, but I don't know what you're referring to. I bought an original '32 tank that was leaking at the seam, and I resealed it with a kit from POR. It's a 3 step process that seems to work fine... 3blap.
I don’t recognize the tank but I’m thinking farm implement, swather, older combine. Check with the wreckers
Looking at the photos of it you posted unless you specifically want an Oval tank, to hand build one to fit as needed is no big deal for any good sheet metal worker. I know I've built over a dozen just for that reason. Even hand building an oval one isn't that big of a deal. You just make a buck for the end caps and flange it over, then do your wrap.
https://www.ebay.com/itm/286030770308 https://compbrake.com/product/ford-...b_e1zVEUcFnlyXKrjyF7YupnzwwlYrOQnf5_FwKWO1pWW
In looking at the photo of both the Tank in his car and the one Joe Blow posted neither tank can be filled more than about 1/2 way due to how the fill tube is sitting. Something to think about there.
Joe Blow is the WINNER WINNER !!! well anyway im waiting till the radiator shop clean next week to make a decision... Rock valley will build a custom just like it..And Ricks in texas looks like they will as well..... My thoughts are to have a WORKING fuel guage, as the ANGLIA wont when turned 90 degrees up.... And i dont mind spending a better dollar on maybe a stainless tank for the NEXT POOR BASTERD that inherits after im gone.... I can also add a good VENTING bung/return bung/fuel guage mounting/and maybe adjust the FILLER NECK for more fuel..... Thanks Guys for your input..ALWAYS appreciated.....
In order to be able to totally fill the tank the fill access needs to be at the 12 o'clock position of the tank. Any builder will know that. Being you are cramped for space you might want to have an external fill cap. Personally I don't like seeing them so I found a little better solution. I found a Flush mount and paintable unit. The cap receiver welds flush into the Body and recesses the cap. The cap is spring loaded and you press and turn it then unscrew it. Just something to think about. Here's what the unit looks like prior to welding it in. I used a proper size Conduit punch to get a perfectly round hole that fit exactly to the machined relief made in the housing. A little further along before any file work. Found a molded Gas Tank coupling hose that did the job. Don't pick on me for the braded steel vent hose. Once done I'll cover it with a long piece of Shrink tubing. It was all about what I had on hand. Once spotted in you will have to look for it to see it. Mostly it solved a problem for me I could live with. Again, just something to think about. I know it's not for everyone.
Go to the "Tanks" website. https://www.tanksinc.com/?gad_sourc...sZ4oJRk1yWACmDvEPMhESnvOv_maBYYRoCxjYQAvD_BwE Look at their "universal" tanks and also their "Mopar" tanks for 30s model cars. I think you would be better to get a new tank thats long and more "square" than "oval" shaped. I have one of the Dodge ones that I bought from a local guy and I think thats what I'm going to use. The tank you have probably isn't worth the effort to recondition it due to limited fuel capacity. The squarer shape will probably sit better and hold more fuel. Here is a picture of an even larger one that was posted on the Hamb and I saved it for reference. The tanks I mentioned above are not this tall (maybe 1/2 as tall), but this shows what can be done if you want plenty of reserve.
After following the posted link and seeing what car it is, I can tell doing an external fill cap is the wrong direction for your project. Less is more in your case. I'll go back under my rock now.
Roadsterlines is the NEW Winner!!! He shared a pic of his Early FORD PREFECT!!!! I honestly LOVE the enthusism YOU GUYS have here.... My radiator shop wont do a tank anymore and although NOT that bad inside, im leaning more of a NEW one for the LONG haul.... my tank badds are..1)1/4 fuel outlet. 2) NO FUEL sender 3) Very small capacity 8 gallons or less mounted that way with fill neck. 4) WILL CONTINUE TO RUST 4 ever...5) Still have to modify an exact TANK (repro if found) to 1956 ****ty ways..... NEW STAINLESS TANK BUILD IT IS !!!!! well its like giving ya wife all the HOTROD money to makeover the house!!!! My car has HAD SO MUCH CHANGE by THE OG builder "****ie" and then the Floors were lowered to increase leg room and headroom (previous owner)..I dont think it makes a RATS*** if I put a nice tank with safety and longevity in mind..... I want to DRIVE IT and SHARE IT with friends and Family.. THIS CENTURY!!!!!! Im not cutting floors to use a shelf bought tank, ill just make it to fit my space.... I dont think i get a DEMERIT for making it run again... Wheres them cheap BOAT gastanks at WALMART??????? JUST KIDDIN..... https://www.jalopyjournal.com/forum...***ie-roys-coupe.1329799/page-2#post-15779540
Pist n broke.... Thank you for your valued input..I did think of maybe using one, but since i have no mind to show the Trunk area off inside im gonna put one in that fits the space i want to use... Joey
Yes sir, thank you...Ive been looking for a couple weeks and some of those early mopars were close to what i could probably make work..... My height under that trunk edge/trunk floor is only about 7.5 inches..so when one fit the box area it was too tall, or too long for the trunk to close down,or too damn wide...
I really like your final decision. I've learned when ending up with a very short fill tube (especially inside the body) to install a couple baffles in what I have for a fill tube. That helps minimize the amount of fuel surge up the tube when cornering and leakage at the cap. I have taken soft plugs the same o.d. as the fill tube i.d. and cut small openings in them then clock them so the slots don't line up. I like using 3 but have gotten away with just 2. They can make for slow filling at the Gas Station, it's worth the trade-off.
I plan to use one on my coupe as well. Only concern is the paint and if the fuel may harm it if dripped. I realize the same thing can happen on a daily driver with a filler in the fender and there are millions of cars doing it that way...............but then I saw this at the Street Rod Nationals a few years ago. Anyone have any idea what/why this happened ?
If I had to end up with no fill tube at all I would also Not use a vented fill cap. That said, I would use a Rollover valve, not just a vent fitting in the top of the tank inboard of the deck lid so not to be seen and can stand above the fill cap then drop the discharge tube through the floor pan. A rollover valve has a check ball in it. It will do both Vent for you and stop the fuel surge up into it. The Br*** fitting in this photo is a Rollover valve. You need to plan ahead so you have room for it. The vertical ****** for the discharge line could also be a 90* but the valve needs to be vertical to work right. I'll add this, I've learned to when installing the fuel feed line make sure the hard line puckup is welded to the Bottom of the tank and an opening about 1/4" up the tube then take the attachment fitting clear to the top, or as close as you can get it. The tank as you have it designed should have at least one baffle in it to slow down side surge.
Well yes, The flush mount cap unit I use is designed for Motorcycles. The weld in insert is a recessed cup the actual Cap lives inside of. If you fill until it Burps up there is no place for excess to go. With the small vent in the cap a surge up against it puts fuel in the cup and it's going to get to your paint. My fix for that has been to install a drain for the spilt fuel. Notice the little hole at the 3 O-Clock position. That's the lowest point in the fitting and is a piece of 3/16 steel line. Makes for a 1/8" drain hole for even just water when you give it a bath. Without that drain, when driving in the Rain and you stop for gas, you're going to let some water into the tank when you remove the Cap. That's not a good plan. These 2 photos were taken during work in progress.
Yes sir, im very familiar building cars in my shop for 40 years..It will have a rollover vent valve (top driver side) and a supply /return on the lower p***enger side .... The cap is there ONLY for reference, it will not be a Vented cap...And it will have a baffle or 2 in the tank....Goin with ROCK VALLEY..should have a preliminary by monday... will share soon as i get it...
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