Good question! My first guess is no. But I do not know for sure. When squirrel gets outta bed he will know.
Too little info, but normally an in-tank pump fails due to plugged pickup or junk/rust. If it can be blown back thru with reasonable volume you might be able to pull thru it. Also most low pressure (carb) fuel pumps push better than pull. So you would want it at the tank outlet, not up at the carb.
If you can siphon fuel from the tank past the intank pump it should work. And mount it close to the tank not at carb.
Yes but not well. Most pumps make pressure but have limited suction. The farther away from the tank the worse this gets. Depending on what has caused the original pump to fail, it may cause the next unit to not have an adequate source for fuel.
Good info , but a didn’t think to blow out the line from the carb end to clear out as a possibility Of course I should just pull the tank and do it right
I would like to thank the car manufacturers (in my case anyway) for making removal of the in tank pump a pain in the *** because you have to drain the tank and drop it rather than having an access hole in the trunk/rear cargo area.
Leave it working and loop the fuel line as a return. [use an byp*** pressure regulator to control the pressure in the lines] Then "T" off another deadhead pressure regulator next to the carb. [up to 6psi] This ^^^ method gets rid of most vapor lock ----------------------------------------------------------------------------------------------------------- Also you can remove the in tank EFI pump off the sender unit and replace it with a syphon tube. The wires need to be isolated And another method is replace the pump with an in tank low pressure lift pump [5-6 psi] https://fuelab.com/i-163-fuelab-6an-make-outlet-low-pressure-in-tank-lift-fuel-pump-49502.html But the best method is to keep the pump working and regulate the pressure
Depends on the vehicle. On my 36 year old import truck, yes. The in-tank pump failed and I simply put a stock mechanical pump on the engine, been running great for five years so far.
I find that working around an existing problem often becomes more work/money than just fixing what you have. Its different when building something from scratch and making things work together....but when you have a system that does the job correctly when all its components function properly, its usually easier to just correct the existing problem.
Are all OEM in-tank pumps of the rotary vane type, or are some a of a plunger diaphragm type? Would this make any difference in a mechanical pump's ability to draw fuel through it?
Just remove the pump from the tank and put a straight pick up line and a filter in its place on the fuel pump module......and insert it back into the tank.
The Jalopy Journal
