Featured Hot Rods 35/37 ford truck chassis thread

Im sure when your dad is Fat Jack Robinson youbhave unlimited resources and know the owner of numerous hotrod shops by name,ch***is builders,engine builders,paint and body guys..
Im just some guy trying to build a cool truck to pull a flathead welder out in the desert..
Thanks for all the replies

 

Santa came a bit late

 

Will you be using 35-40 shackles with shock mount?

 

Im thinking of doimg custom mounts.. im not that far in...there's a guy sorta local selling earlier friction shocks,I have the magnum axle shocks and i have the 50 gmc hydro shocks..

 

Any way of removing these bushings whitout damage ?thank you

 

Hydraulic press would be the first try. If that does not work, then heat as there may be rust from 50+ years of being installed. At any rate after heating and removing let them cool on their own. Quenching them could possibly harden them and make them brittle.

 

Thank you,i ended up just going to town with the torch..they just melted and dripped out..
Bent the perches and patched the xmember.

 

If you want to use new style shackles with urethane bushings, you still need to get the tin liner of the old shackle pin out of the perch. Sometimes you can snag it with an air chisel, sometimes you need to slice through it with a hacksaw blade before it will peel away.

 

Thank you...I cant seem to find replacements online..ill try today after work

 

Original style shackle bolts are available at all the restoration vendors. But they are very hard to press in.

 

Ill probably end up buying the shackles from speedway,they have nylon bushings i believe..


I need to make a shim for the rear spring,they put a shim on top of the spring but that will raise the frame 3/4" and I'm trying to lower it..
Has anyone made a nice looking i could stack 3@ 1/4 plates with a little bend,then tack them .

 

Just weld a piece of 3/4" square bar on each spring clip.

 

There's seems to be not much difference between the 37 and 35 the grille and split windshield? That was my '35 View attachment 660

 

Thank you..
And happy new year,happy new year everyone..

Rained down in sin city so been doing little stuff here and there,mostly organize my backyard since i do a lot of work here too.
I have to move tools down from the garage to the backyard etc...im trying to look less of a junkyard..
Anywho..
My project came with a steering box they cut above the frame..
My 37 "restored" frame came with a box also cut above the frame but they sent the rest of the steering column also..
Are these junk cut or can they be used?

I have an older steering box and column with a key on the column...
But i want to know if the other boxes are s**** or they can be used.
Thanks in advance

 

^^^
The shaft can easily be spliced together with a piece of steel tube bored to the OD of the shaft. Besides welding around the cir***ference, I usually drill a couple holes in the side and plug weld them too; but the extra holes are probably overkill anyway.

First be sure the steering box is good. '37 & up boxes are pretty decent to use. Easily rebuilt if needed.

Need to measure fairly close to get the length right for the column lock to work; more so if you a stock light switch & horn rod.

 

Thank you...I watched Matt @ Iron trap garage shorten one. Seems pretty straight forward..
It maybe a dumb question but what is the inner rod and spring that slide out from underneath?
Thanks in advance.

 

Called the horn rod; the tube itself turns the insides of the headlight switch which clamps on the bottom of the steering box and the horn wire runs thru center of the tube.

 

Neat-o..I was never good at doing a stock horn..always had to get an aftermarket switch..