why would you put all that work into a car only for it to have a STOCK 4.6 4v. if youre that far in get a 5.4 4v from a nav or build a 351 so itll actually make power without needing an inhaler
My guess would be because it makes a great driver…not what this forum is about, but lots of folks do stuff like this anymore.
Your mechanic makes me very nervous. Floor jack is all but maxed out and then has stacks of blocks on top of that and the jack stand is not even touching the frame. Hope he is insured!
Should not need to max out floor jack to remove the suspension and the jack stands would be better farther back on the frame. But yeah looks a little sketchy.
MrYeats… I didn’t want a vacuum can on the firewall, just a personal choice, and it’s why I went with a Wilwood 4 piston system including a 7/8” MC. I also drilled a hole just above the original on the brake pedal to give me a better mechanical advantage. I did also made a plug for the original hole to keep its strength. The rod doesn’t interfere with the MC end either. Fords first disc brake cars in 1965 did not have power ***ist or a dual MC as we know them today. I will also say at this time with the radiator out install a smaller pulley on the water pump to move the coolant at idle. I know on a 56 a Ford 289-302 from a Mustang works great, (pulley and spacer kit from Summit) many use this because of temp creap at long intersections or idling into car events. If you’re really seriously looking to repower in the future I would move the radiator up to the 6 cylinder position at this time. Above all have fun with your Ford…it most outstanding feature is “It’s not a Chevrolet”
Not having a Thunderbird or knowing their concerns a Thunderbird owner did suggest the smaller pulley. I can only say that it’s helped hundreds of Ford car owners. Our family owned 55-56 Fords new and none had in town heating problems. But today with the formulation of todays gasoline they do. Full size cars never had shrouds and now are more efficient with them. More are currently air conditioned than ever left the factory with that option also. I share what I’ve learned from others and what as helped me personally.
I kept my rear drums manual, so I have to crank the adjustment a couple of clicks once a year. I should have gotten a later self adjuster kit, really not a bad idea and it does keep the pedal up there.
Good looking '56 and glad you're keeping the Y block since no other engine sounds like a Y block. As others have noted, a 390 is not a difficult swap. My friend Tim Pilgrim has had one in his '56 Customline for years. What's the third character of your caf's serial number which indicates the ***embly plant? My father worked at the Atlanta plant when they were building them. If it's an Atlanta car, he leaded the seams. The man could work lead.
Have a 390 in my 62 Fairlane a built 312 on the stand and a built 292 in my 57 F100 all fun engines but I just love that 292 hammer on that thing to no end, had problems with distributers to stabbed a Mallory Unilite in it and never looked back. Scored some new old stock Holly Wood steel packed mufflers can't beat the sound you will love that engine.
you can shove an FE in one, pretty sure the Cleveland will be pretty easy. the rear from a five seven or five eight will go in pretty easy. I ran a '57 rear in my 55 Vic
Good evening, I just joined today after purchasing the '56 Fairlane at the beginning of this thread. Imagine my surprise when I found the exact car during a search. This is my first Ford of this era, and I am excited to learn about it. Best regards, Jim Reynolds Montgomery, TX
The most important thing to do is enjoy and use your car. Stock or modernized …engine swap or not..the fun is driving your car. Mine comes out every weekend unless it’s raining. For the most part my “modernizing” is unseen but each one has made the car better and more user friendly.
Hard to say, I learned more about the car from this thread than when I bought it. Currently, doing fluid changes and safety checks but it seems to be in decent shape.