rain all day yesterday.... thats gonna be a big direction pointer... if the motor is good it'll stay.. if not it's gonna change the whole build..I was able to spin it by hand before I bought it.... so who knows till I look in side of it
my wonder is what happens to the shocks and brakes if you put a drop axel.... does that all have to be changed...
If youre happy with that stance on the red truck, you could probably just do a reverse eye and remove a leaf or two up front, and do the same on the back. I think the 4" drop axle gets weird with mechanicals, I think its been done, but it seems like a lot of work ( to me atleast) and would make me want to just put juice brakes on.
I have so many hot rod type A's with juice brakes,.... for some reason I thought the 36 and 29 I waanted to be 40's-50's type cars... my 2 other 29 pick ups and my 34 have juice brakes......
New now WTF>>>>so I've been out try'n to put wheels on this truck.... on the front.... the 21's I have that hold air won't fit.... they won't go over the hub....so I found another set of wheels that work... but one goes flat over night...but I can still move it around... I have some 5 on 5.5 steel f 1 wheels that hold air so thought till the new wheels get here,I'll go with them on the rear.....Nope.... the wheel centric lip is like 4 3/8'' and the wheels are flat on the back... and about 3.5 hole in center of the wheel..with the lip on the drum need to space the drum to flat... wheb you do that the lugs are too short.... thinking this is a straight forward mod to go to steel wheels, I went and ordered 8.20 and5.50 15'' tires... should get tomorrow... and was going to order 15 x 5 steel wheels...tomorrow... no finding they aren't gonna work... I have never ran into this.. I have the model a shims... but the problem is opposite, and the wheel shims won't go on either..... sum ting wong now...
There are spacers that support the steel rim on a wire wheel drum. You can run a dropped axle & mech brakes, some people run 32 perches, others add an adaptor to the top of the perch to carry the brake actuator. Then bend steering arm to clear
got a link???? can't find anything that'll work...I could put washers or shims on the lugs but then the lugs aren't long enough
I think this will end all my problems and get the wheels closer to the fender edge...so thats what I just ordered...
after I finally got temp wheels that hold air done... got a chance to pull the plugs and scope the cylinders ... good news , no rust or anything weird....the walls have a fresh cross hatch... so probley got a ring and bearing rebuild...poured a couple ounces of marvel in each hole..let sit... put some more and spun it ove by hand..next I'll drag it around the block a few times probley stop and add more marvel , then go some more... that'll make sure the rings get a good seat before I try to start it... also filled the carb with carb clean just'n case....might even let it sit a day or two and drag it around the block again....then I can change all the old gear oil...
There's a bit of chat on this thread https://www.jalopyjournal.com/forum/threads/40-ford-wheels-on-a-model-a.750368/
A '32-'34 axle with a reversed eye spring will lower the front some; use the larger '32-'34 brakes too. Here's a couple pictures of dropped axles with mech brakes to look at. One aftermarket axle with A spindles & brakes and the other a dropped Ford axle with '32-'34 spindles & brakes.