Hello everyone, my name is Kyle and this is my first post. I'm in North Texas and I've got a 1935 Ford Pickup with a 24-bolt V8 that my grandfather bought in '92, and I inherited in 2017. It ran, but never well, and always had a knock/tick. I finally got around to pulling the heads and found that a valve spring was off an exhaust valve (and all components just lying in the valley). While everything is apart, I'm trying to figure out what I have. From what I gather, it's a '49-53 engine. The two-part spring retainer and sleeve seem to be '51-53. But the heads are weird. Driver side is EAB, but p***enger just has "E202", which I'm not finding much online. Possible I have higher compression on one bank and not the other? My plan is to get a replacement valve guide and spring retainer (the one that came off is indented pretty bad), new water pumps and hoses, and head, intake, and coolant gaskets. I also need to rebuild the carb or get a fresh one online. Is there a preferred brand/website for this stuff? I've found some stuff on Dennis Carpenter so far. Anyways, glad to finally be wrenching on this thing and hope to have it out at some shows soon! Kyle
I like to use VanPelt Sales out of Mount Repose, Ohio. Mac and Shelly have always been extremely good us. They are a great company to deal with. He’s on here as well @Mac VP maybe he can answer your question about the heads.
Appreciate all the kind words and the welcome! Looking a bit more at my photos of the valve springs, I think there are both kinds of retainers being used. My grandpa and uncle tinkered with this thing for a couple decades, so there's no telling what they, or the previous owners, did. I just know it was never fully rebuilt under my family's ownership. And it's been a good 10-15 years since much maintenance of any kind was done, except for me replacing most of the ignition system in 2019. I'll check out VanPelt. I was perusing their site for all the flathead knowledge previously!
Nice truck. The heads were probably just changed with anything that was available. Yes it’s a 49-53 engine. Van Pelt is a good source for parts. That ignition system requires a Holley 94 to operate your ignition advance. I’d suggest rebuilding it. They aren’t difficult. Those original loadamatic distributors require a venturi vacuum and over the years the advance diaphragm under the points plate gets hard and breaks apart disabling the advance. These are rebuildable and aftermarket distributors are also available. I’d suggest cleaning out your coolant system after you get it running. The most effective solution is to run 100% vinegar in the system for 50 miles or so. Flush it and repeat until your water is clean. Then run baking soda in it to flush it out and neutralize. High velocity pumps are available from Skip in Florida. https://skipscoilsandpumps.com/
Look up 3rd Gen in Tennessee. Excellent parts and service . You should go to Ford barn forum for more information
Personally I would repair the valve. Make sure that the valves are adjusted per shop manual. The model T guys use a ScotchBright pad to clean the valve and seat with the valve in block. I would repair the valve, clean it up, rebuild the carburetor, inspect the fuel pump, get some gaskets and oil, and put it back together with what I had. The water pumps are most likely fine if they are not stuck. Get a shop manual Ford shop manual is a must. The old Motors Manual’s are great.
The key to doing what you are doing is to arm yourself with information. Asking here is a step in the right direction, but its also good to get your hands on some tech info as its usually well organized. Amazon has several books available cheaply that will help you. Here is one that advertises "step by step" rebuilding info for just $18. I'd look at the ones that are for rebuilding more than the ones that are for "hopping up"..........you can get them later if needed.
Thanks for the info! I believe I actually have two Holley 94s at the moment, one was given to me in a box or two of parts. I’ll look into rebuilding it. The vacuum line to the distributor has always been plugged, so I’m sure the advance has never worked. Is it worth rebuilding the distributor I have or just getting a decent aftermarket? The vinegar trick is a new one for me, but I might try it. Can definitely tell the coolant p***ages had some nastiness floating around.
What do you mean by “repair the valve”? As far as I can tell, it doesn’t look damaged or bent. I just figured a new guide would be smart since the valve was loose in there. The fuel pump was converted to electric awhile back, so the mechanical pump is byp***ed. Water pumps have probably never been changed since my grandpa bought it, and I have everything apart, so just figured I’d do them. But being the motor mounts as well, it’d be a lot easier not to! There were some books along with the box of parts that were given to me. I’ll check out what’s in there!
Like you are doing…. A new guide and retainer… I think you found the source of the tick. Since it’s down, I would check all the valves. To adjust valves, if out of spec, they require grinding ( if they need to be adjusted). As the valve wears, sometimes the valve seat needs to be lapped or ground. When this is done the valve is too long, requiring the valve stem being ground for specified clearance at the lifter. Sometimes simply cleaning the seat and valve of carbon build up are enough without grinding the seat or the valve. Sometimes simply lapping the valve and seat is good for a while as long as the correct clearances are at the lifter. This is all in the shop manuals. The best all around distributor for an 8BA is the stock Loadomatic in my opinion. In good condition it’s fantastic. The Loadomatic distributor must be run with a single 94 Ford 8BA carburetor. The stock LOM distributor and Ford 94 8BA carburetor were matched pairs. In stock set-up with a good single 94 and a good LOM distributor, the 8BA is a great, peppy reliable engine. A set of headers on a stock 8BA does make an improvement in performance. In a 1935 truck, a stock 1951 8BA is a hot rod. As far as the water pumps….. I would only replace the stuff I knew needed replacing.
I second the recommendation of joining "The Ford Barn" site especially if this is your only "specialty" vehicle. There are several guys over there that literally "wrote the book" on several versions of the early Ford V8's.
if you’re only running one carb, I’d go for rebuilding the original. you definitely need to get your advance working. I’ve clean many flathead coolant systems with 100% vinegar. Works great.
Sent u a pm(personal message) to your Avatar. Look thru your messages where u can get back to me. I heard u may not be “accepted” into the HAMB brotherhood until u have successfully sent 5 messages, but I could be wrong about that last entry I am sending to u. FLATHEADS FOREVER JOHN IN DEL. BUT REALLY SPENT 75 yrs in Texas!!
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