Hi all doing some painting using Rustoleum sandable filler primer, Rustoleum Automative Paint and then some 2 pack clear from a can. Having been dumb and sprayed the primer on without any PPE Id like to be smarter next time. Looking for guidance on what filter I should be using. Thanks.
Use all your left over covid face masks. I personally never use PPE , I simply stand upwind when spraying aerosols Apart from insanity ,it has never caused me any health issues
What you should be doing is reading the WHIMS labels ot tech sheets. Some products like the 2k are extremely hazardous to your health. Isocyanates when airborne are very toxic. While they do recommend a fresh air supplied, fresh charcoal and full face will be fairly safe if fresh and replaced between uses as the product seals the charcoal and renders it useless at further protecting. Bare skin should also be covered.
Yep. None of it is good for you, but the single stage is much less hazardous. Here is the Material Safety Data Sheet (MSDS) for the clear. https://www.myperfectcolor.com/repositories/pdfs/spraymax_3680061_sds.pdf It mentions protecting eyes and skin, but doesn't have the respirator labeling I'd expect. If it does not have a ****on in the base of the can to mix a catalyst, it's not 2-pack, 2 part or catalyzed. 2K Aerosol Clear Coats are Activate-When-Required systems delivering the same toughness and performance of a traditional spray-gun applied 2-pack clear — straight from an aerosol can. Once activated, these true 2K clears chemically cure to form an ultra-durable, fuel-resistant, UV-stable, and highly protective finish. I'd still try not to be downwind and get it on myself, in my eyes or breathe it. If it IS catalyzed, use a P-95 mask at minimum! HF has cheap short use ones for around 20 bucks. https://www.harborfreight.com/p95-maintenance-free-dual-cartridge-respirator-66554.html https://biologyinsights.com/is-a-p95-respirator-better-than-an-n95/ If you are like a lot of the greybeards around here, the seal between the mask and your skin is ruined by that facial hair. Again, limit exposure by not being downwind or having it blow back on you.
Like @Kerrynzl I don't bother with ppe for enamel primers or color coats, it's not good for you for sure, but unless I'm doing a lot of spraying its not bothersome to breather a few fumes, at least IME. But the 2k clear is a different story, you don't want to inhale those, or even get them on your skin. So I do use a respirator when spraying those with filters specifically for the task, as well as cover up, long sleeves, gloves, hat, gl***es, etc. That **** is nasty. And use a dust mask when using a DA on the primer or body filler.
Thanks all for the input. Have learnt quite a bit which is always good. Ended up ordeing some 3M 60921-L3 which are organic gas compitable. The 2K Clear cans have the ****on on the bottom so not taking a risk with them. Appreciate all the help and input.
Rattle can painting, without regard to your health, is traditional... But seriously, this guy has a lot of good painting advise/videos
Thanks, he is actually one of the youtubers that has given me some confidence in doing this. Some great hints etc!
That's a good video. I painted my A pickup with rattle cans, it came out pretty good. The biggest problems with rattle cans are: 1. when your finger slips too far forward and interferes with the spray and you get splatters, I recommend using one of those triggers that clips onto the top of the can to prevent that. It also makes it much easier to control the spray, and keeps you from getting a cramp in your hand/arm from holding down the nozzle. 2. Tiger stripes, or streaks of darker and lighter colors because of uneven application of the paint. This is even more common with metallic paints. Once the stripes form it's difficult to cover them up because applying more paint just makes them darker. I got pretty lucky with this on my paint job, but I can still see some striping in the paint depending on how the light hits it. Really, if you get some bad stripes just stop, let it dry and then sand it down and start over again and try harder to get good overlap and even coverage. Practice on some cardboard first. I found some nozzles with a wider fan pattern that fit the cans I was using which helped. Also, in that video he went with 2 coats of clear. If this is a project that you're going to want to wet sand then you'll want to lay down at least 4 coats IMO, or it will be too thin to properly wet sand and you risk sanding through the clear. And those SprayMax 2K clear spray cans are good, and have a good nozzle, but for a good finish it will require wet sanding, there will be some orange peel. Good luck, and let us know how it works out. Pics please!
I don't do a lot of painting anymore. On the occasion I do, I use a P95 mask for sanding & prep etc. When it's time to break out a spray-gun, I use a face mask with the replaceable cartridges (tip- keep 'em fresh). Usually single stage stuff. Only 2K I've used was the rattle can, activated clear, to do a set of wheels a while back. Always used the 3-3-3 coat method myself, seemed to work out fine. Damn, reminded me of how much I hate blocking........
I looked into a filter last year, talked to my friend who paints. I asked him about using an N95 mask for isocyanates and he said no. So I googled it. Google says no as well. I can’t argue the point one way or the other.
Be careful of 1 part spray paint epoxies like VHT ch***is and rollbar paint and rustoleum appliance paint. Some are moisture cure and guess what your lungs are full of? You got it, moisture.
A N95 is only a particulate filter. For painting you would also want an organic vapor cartridge. Like a 3M 6001/07046 with a P95/99 prefiter. I was told ( by both my PPG paint supplier & 3M rep ) that the 6001/07046 organic vapor cartridge was good for 8hrs of iso exposure/use. And must be stored air tight when not in use. Otherwise it needs to be thrown out and replaced. There is a reason why the OVC's. Are supplied in air tight/foil lined packaging. Though obviously a fresh air system, is still the best protection option.
The same is true of 2K epoxies, primers, and clears that use a isocyanate containing catalyst. It is attracted to moisture. Eyes, nose, mouth, throat, mucus membranes, and skin.
The N95 VS P95 answers are all over out there. https://parcilsafety.com/blogs/news...ask-when-painting-heres-what-you-need-to-know
There's some very good reasons why women live longer then men...personally, I think a lot of it has to do with the up and down action that comes from sitting or squatting to pee. I'm not certain...(?) but motion is lotion they say, and standing to pee doesn't require much motion. No motion no lotion. Neither does pushing down a ****on or squeezing a trigger to spray product while standing down wind, or holding your breath? I'm guilty, I do know better. But I'm also trying to do better. Like a guy needs a further reason to live, I sit to pee. It reduces the hazard. Paint the fender...paint the car...Why not use a brush. That's right, a brush. Maybe even a roller? Remove the airborne hazard and all you're left with is stink. Search it, automotive brush painting it's actually a thing. While there is nothing wrong with using spray technology, 2k or not 2k, you're missing the point of harm reduction and what leads to a similar finished result. Most don't do it because they sold you, me, they and them on "it's quicker". It's modern. It's better? I know I balked at buying a $16.00 paint brush but it is a nice brush. And thinner...don't get me started. But spray cans are not cheap, and they sure don't offer the coverage you can apply with a brush from a pint or a quart can. Once dry they still sand and polish. As far as safety goes, it's my understanding, if you don't atomize it, it does remain a much safer hazardous product to use. -------------------------------------------------------------------------------------------------------------------------- - An N95 respirator is a tight-fitting protective mask designed to filter out at least 95% of airborne particles. Guess that explains why we all caught the covid! Ha! We needed N100's. Now that we understand what it means we might also ***ume 5% makes it past and why it's not recommended in providing enough protection from hazards when using a product that contains isocyanates. 3M 60921-L3, A better product indeed but, always a but...common sense says even it has limits to its in service life span. While it's my understanding that a catalyzed product chemically sets, when sprayed, I'm told it's UV light exposure that starts the oxidation reaction that quickly starts to cure it. About 3 to 5 minutes, just enough to float away, yet wet enough to land, bind and cure. Spray it in the yard and a week later you wonder why plants are dying, leaves are curling turning yellow and falling off the trees. Binding as it p***es from a misty vapour to larger particulate p***ing through a prefilter to a filter paper wrapped charcoal wadding, it should be sufficient at preventing the p***age using a fresh 3M 60921-L3,, BUT, because people are dumb (wear a poorly fitting respirator, half mask instead of full face, exposing eyes, skin, hair), cheap ( reusing the same instead of replacing when the product has dried) and lazy ( It's uncomfortable and I can be done before I find where I last left it) they say, fresh air supplied protection is best when using a product that contains Isocyanates. As mentioned by other, easy entry into the body, like germs or viruses make it dangerous. Fun fact, while you do have two lungs, they are not equal in size...like testicles one is slightly larger. And like testes, a smart man protects them both. Just because a guy does it and get away with it, doesn't mean it's not an ac***ulating exposure resulting in a future illness. Wear protection. And if you won't do squats, try sitting to pee. It could help you live longer you never know?
@NoelC next you are going to tell me to move to a cold climate, it's good for my longevity! BTW, it's been hovering around 3.3 C here with rain and snow and wind in Arizona.
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